asilverblazer

From the freeze frame data looks like bank 1 is running richer than bank 2 based on short term fuel trims. Not much else to glean off the data though. Still could be problem unique to cylinder 3 - potentially a more global problem. I would have to go back to re-read what has been done so far, but, there is a possibility that the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor is failing. That could result in an inaccurate/incorrect fuel trim for that bank. It would cause problems more wide spread than just cylinder 3 though. Hard to tell based on information so far. We don't know what the bank 1 sensor reading is, but if we infer that because of the fuel trim for that bank being leaned out the sensor must be experiencing a rich condition. For that to happen there has to be too little O2 in the exhaust. If the sensor has some carbon build up, it could not read all the O2 that is actually present in the exhaust stream. If you're the gambling sort, and running out of things to bet on you could throw one on it. It might come down to spending money on better diagnostic tools, such as one that can record a log of the whole trip, or spending money somewhat guessing at parts. The alternative to that is that the sensor is reading correctly and is seeing the rich condition because a cylinder is miss firing and letting a bunch of unburnt fuel into the exhaust stream. We know a miss fire is occurring because at least we have a code telling us so and you can feel them. Still inferring from the short term fuel trim that the miss fires are on bank 1, it doesn't look like a global problem. It could still be just cylinder 3 or maybe another cylinder on that bank too. Someone would either have to go back through all the items we've already talked about to confirm they are good, or start a more intensive diagnosis; in no particular order of magnitude, maybe smoke the intake to confirm no intake leaks, pop valve covers and inspect valve train, inspect cam/lifters/pushrods, borescope to look in the combustion chamber for anomalies.

Are you feeling torque converter slip or poor TCC action? This can sometimes feel like a shudder or miss fire. Also a torque converter that doesn't lock up will cause lower fuel economy. You could still have a miss fire on cylinder 3 (not necessarily at the times you describe) in addition to failing TCC solenoid that isn't bad enough to trigger a code yet. (Transmission component slip detected or something like that...) Plug looks like it has a miss. Post a picture of the underside of the cap and rotor tips. Fuel trim for that bank is still way negative? (Showing a bunch of unburnt fuel is making it through to the O2 sensor.) Have you tried a spark tester on it? A visual confirmation of spark...

O2 sensors are everyone's favorite scapegoat for anything wrong. Don't replace parts without a proper diagnosis. Try to get miss fire counts to determine if you are really looking at random miss fires or if there are a few problematic cylinders.

Unhook the battery for a few minutes and reconnect. Confirm no spark with a spark tester.

What was the initial code? You replaced the oil pressure sensor? Why did the oil cooler lines need replaced? It sounds like you describe the engine turning over freely, and spraying starting fluid into the intake doesn't cause an attempt to start either. If that is accurate - you need to see why ignition isn't firing.

Why are you paying for warranty work?

I think we are saying/understanding the same thing.

I might not be interpreting your comment correctly but in 4HI you will not get a difference (differential) in front to rear power distribution. It is locked 50:50 regardless of traction. Ignoring any traction devices or traction controls, at a minimum, one tire in the front AND one tire in the rear will get power (50%) and in poor traction spin. Versus what you describe as one front tire OR one rear tire getting power (100%) and spinning. EDIT: If I re-read your comment another way... In 4 Auto, it cannot vary the power beyond locking the front and rear together. The front will never get more power than the rear. Something like... F/R 10/90 20/80 30/70 40/60 50/50 Never F/R 60/40 70/30 80/20 90/10 100/0

The wires break inside the insulation, usually near the haptic motor.

Where that gear shifter is would be a great spot for a cupholder. Maybe they could put that somewhere less in the way. Like back on the column where it was! Meanwhile the only configuration GM truck I'd buy right now is a HD Silverado based strictly off the center console not having the gear shifter on it and where the trailer brake controller is.

A note for the iDash it can display more than three... generally is a pretty legit device. I bought it for regen alerts too. The benefit is it runs independent of your phone. I like the idea of what you're doing being in the main infotainment screen though, just not the phone being the middleman. It'd be nice if there were an app that could be run on the truck that could communicate with the ELM.

Get it out of the truck then using the rent-a-compressor will be easier.

Do you have a data logging device? Some way to monitor how much fuel and air are being consumed and burned - or not burned...

With weight on the strut, you can wrap/lace the spring (the weight on it keeps it compressed some) with a heavy gauge wire. The more and tighter you get it laced the safer it will be. It should be enough to hold it all together to get it out of the truck. Unless you have a fancy strut compressor, then the dangerous part of getting the wire off while under tension. At least its not going to damage the truck and its not right in your face either. Out of the truck you could take it to a shop too.

Alex the AI bot... With the door closed, can you stick your finger in the jamb/rubber seal and see if you feel movement?

Now you might as well take care of number 8. Hint: Use a swivel/universal with long extension and attack from behind the AC accumulator. Also, when diagnosing a miss fire on a particular cylinder. Try swapping the easily accessible parts from the bad cylinder to a known good cylinder, one at a time, to narrow down the culprit. The plug wire, then coil, then plug, then injector, etc. when the miss fire follows the part, you'll have found the problem.

I'm curious how combining the cooling elements of the pan, the factory transmission oil cooler and thermostat work together? Getting heat out of the fluid in the pan is complicated by the thermostat regulating the fluid to operating temperature, the concept being that we can't arbitrarily remove all the heat from the fluid without shutting the thermostat to try raising the fluid temperature back up. Under normal conditions the thermostats operation would regulate the temperature; open to lower or CLOSE to RAISE the operating temperature. Under heavy conditions where the additional cooling would be most beneficial, when the thermostat is open, fluid is flowing through the cooler and returning to the transmission at a temperature still high enough where the additional cooling of the pan would be beneficial. I'm curious how you tested this aspect? Building enough heat in the transmission where the main cooler can't bring the fluid temperature down enough and the pans additional cooling is measured.

This should have been a fairly simple job, why was there so much difficulty? I say it often: new parts does not equal good parts. Also, changing a plug, wire and coil will not change the timing. Messing one of them up can cause a miss fire though.

Any stamped pan with a plug would be fine. Of course you can spend as much as you like. Banks products are well documented and engineered - if they claim something you can be sure to see it. How much will you benefit from it is up to you. I wouldn't hesitate to put a Banks product on my truck if I thought I needed it. Looking at the GM replacement in the link - how would you ever drain the sump with the drain plug not in the lowest location, with that tube that looks 2" tall on top of that?!

Data point: 145K on our Yukons. Had the fluid changed at 90K for its poor shifting manners, with little change. It still works, but it is by far the worst GM transmission I've ever experienced. Out of... dozens with all over 100K and many over 200K. Only one rebuild in the mix. I wish this one would fail so that it could be rebuilt, if I were convinced changing mechanical parts would alter its behavior and shift quality.

New parts can be bad, including the battery. Have it tested, or put a voltmeter on it an watch how many volts drop when starting. Next time it won't start; use jumper cables to create a ground from the engine to the battery. This will help rule out any bad grounds.

Dig the wheels!

Not sure I would say vastly bigger, a short bed crew cab half ton is less than 12" shorter than a 3/4 ton crew cab standard bed. Width, cab size, are the same and if you lift the half ton they will be similar height. The 2014-2019 models the difference was 10" in length all in the bed, every other dimension was the same, except height.

The ride quality of my 1/2 ton was VASTLY better than my 1 ton. Obviously, of course. I've posted it before, but my diesel is getting the exact if not better mpg than my 5.3 was. The only time i get worse mpg is during a regen. City MPG might be lower too, but I don't do heavy city driving often. All things considered - do you value ride quality or capability more?