asilverblazer

And now the trailer brake controller is there... at least its not in the way on the Chevy trucks. The only thing that should be in this area are cup holders and storage. Inevitably the drinks get spilled and soak everything in this area... shifters, buttons, controllers, etc.

Not quite as aggressive as the All Terrain TA KO2... 285/45 R22

oops - mine are 285/45 R22

BFG Trail Terrains - they've been excellent performers in the rain, dry, snow, quiet and no odd wear.

Doing this would probably upset all the electronics so much it won't shift the transfer case. Popping the drive shaft out would probably relieve enough drivetrain 'stress' to make some difference.. whether it would help you diagnosis is debatable. I'd check wheel hub bearings first, they are more failure prone than the diff.

Inflation pressure labels are typically listed as 'cold' - I can't remember the exact definition of that but in simple terms I set the pressure in the morning prior to driving any where. The 'coldest' temperature of the season. You are monitoring the pressures too - I've never seen more than a 5 PSI rise from 'cold' to 'hot'.

I get old an worn out... but the degree can vary. My question/point/curiosity is what level of old and worn out was required in order for the midsize truck to tip the scales in the OP's favor. I have a hard time finding the mid size trucks competitive with a fullsize. Because (Not to be offensive but particularly the Frontiers especially aged platform) they deliver less power from their smaller engines with out an appreciable bump in mpg's. Maintenance costs will be the same. Capability will be less payload and towing. Comfort will take a hit via the smaller cabin, and ride quality won't be any better. The only benefit is a lower purchase price and perhaps better maneuverability. So, I'm curious about the OPs thinking on the matter about what his "pros" for the choice are. NOT trying to insult someone's new truck or decision, my comments are either what I've heard or experienced on the balance of compact trucks vs. full size. Also, of note the newer platforms are seeming to provide a better mix of attractiveness compared to a fullsize.

I'd focus on O2 sensors and knock sensors. Inspect the brake light switch and clean its internals if needed. Clear the codes and see what comes back. I don't see anything indicating a bad ECM yet.

Not knowing the condition of your old truck... most reports I've heard are that the mpgs and performance will be similar, the cabin size smaller and capability less. Curious how you think they compare.

I must've missed the WHITE smoke part... Not real positive, but a good compression test suggests coolant entering the air intake tract between the valves and throttle body. An internal leak/crack in the manifold, or, if you're lucky an intake manifold gasket.

Does a reconfigured coolant line sound like it would save a torque converter to you? ...Nope. However, after market support is plentiful to resolve the issue.

New parts doesn't guarantee good parts. Try swapping one component at a time from the bad cylinder to a good cylinder. Plug, wire, coil, etc... Have you checked compression in its current state? Might have ran too lean too long and burned a valve... If it is indeed ONLY cylinder 6, and the above 'external' cylinder specific items aren't the culprit, then its an internal engine issue... For the sake f being thorough, I'd through a vacuum gauge on it and spark tester.

Low voltage on the O2 sensor is a lean condition.

Did you clear codes... and get new ones? Check fuel pressure at the test port. What about injectors condition?

Careful, we're about to get called a bunch of drunken cowboys...

Significant miss fires will quickly kill the catalytic convertors too. Given the age of the truck, if they are original, get the plugs and wires while you're at the parts store. They'll probably need replaced anyways. I'd replace both upstream O2 sensors too. AC/Delco plugs and wires. A throttle body cleaning and fuel filter is probably in order too.

Newest generation Frontier? I would be hard pressed to find how the last generation was better in any way to your old truck.

One of the lighting circuits is back feeding the camera circuit. Plug corrosion, wires pinched together, dual filament bulbs, etc. I either missed or didn't see which particular lighting circuit was back feeding the camera. Isolate which lighting circuit is turning the camera on - parking lights, fog lights, reverse lights, etc. Be advised turning on the headlights will also turn on parking lights, same with fog lights. If I had to guess a close inspection of the parking light circuit at the rear where it is running near the camera or reverse light circuit will locate the problem. Look particularly close where the trailer wiring harness was installed. Something may have rubbed or corroded.

Start checking the trailer plug or trailer wiring for cause of the fuse to pop. Double check that the fuse you put in is still good. If it is, check voltage at the plug with out a trailer connected. Make sure the truck is putting out 12v on the circuit/pin. Most problems, especially on newer trucks is trailer related before it is the truck.

Yes... Give or take 8-9 hours on the road, slightly situated later in the day. Leaving 9-10 and arriving mid evening (before dark). Roughly four pit stops along the way. One right after we pull out, a lunch stop, an afternoon stop and an early evening stop. The pets and passenger princesses... most stops are a minimum 20 minutes, lunch is usually an hour. Interstate travel too, so speeds 70-75 with most stops right off the highway. Most of our family are the 'drive straight through' type... starting a 4am no stops...

I patched a hairline crack in one with JB-Weld. If I was in a bind, pull the T-Case out, disassemble, thoroughly clean around the hole inside and out. Rough up the case with sand paper, apply epoxy and make sure it overlaps the opening to the inside. Cover it with some tape to act as a backing material, then smooth off the outside so that the epoxy overlaps the opening on the outside. Let it cure really well. Remove tape and clean thoroughly, especially any sanding debris. Put it back together and hope for the best. I think a salvage unit would be a better bet...

Any big trip for us I plan on roughly five hundred miles per day. That usually lets us take breaks without being rushed. Traffic jams aren't as much of a worry, getting in and out of the overnight stay isn't as rushed. We can leave in the mornings more leisurely, break downs aren't as stressful, etc. Its so much easier to deal with the unexpected when you aren't also on a tight schedule. Junk RV tires are a major source of issues...

Check the bulbs and harness, something is screwing with the brake light circuit. If the brake light switch is a miss, all the systems that need to know when the brakes are being applied... ... will be turned off.

Swap plug wire, plug, injector, coil, etc. with an adjacent cylinder one at a time. See what component the miss fire follows and replace accordingly. I'd go get your truck and try the above your self. If you can't find the faulty component using the above try a different mechanic.

Probably.