asilverblazer

...except that after you've finished vacuuming it - whack it a couple times and watch the dust fly. Off topic, why have we not figured out a better floor covering for vehicles than carpet?

My blue jeans would 'dye' the light colored leather in my 2015. Thorough cleaning fixed it. The piping wore prematurely in my opinion, I make special effort not to slide in and out and the finish was wearing off anyways. I hate cloth upholstery because it collects and holds dust in it. I hate our 'leather' upholstery because very poor quality.

Curious how different the springs are from factory...

I'd bet GM did a lot more testing and validation on their springs/spring rate than Eibach did... Improve handling - what do you want to improve? Hops - describe the suspension motion you are trying to alter. Both of the above are subjective and I'd bet neither products are going to produce significantly different results from each other.

Upgrading or changing shocks has to be accompanied with a thorough understanding of what the shocks will change to be able to determine if it was worthwhile or not. The only thing the shock absorber does is limit (i.e. control, slow, dampen - hence the name dampers) the motion of the suspension. The tires and springs will try to bounce the vehicle upwards when a bump is encountered. The Bilstein shock absorbers are valved slightly more aggressively than factory to more aggressively dampen suspension motions. This can do two things. An impact from a bump might feel more severe initially because a more aggressive shock absorber won't allow the suspension to compress as much or as quickly. This impact will get transferred to the passenger compartment - you. Second, there will be less bounces from the same impact. While the initial impact might seem more severe, there will be fewer subsequent bounces, because the shock absorber already limited or slowed the motion. These two conditions make describing the effects of the shocks confusing. The ride may seem rougher from the impact but also less bouncy at the same time or smoother... Each individual will have different preferences to these two sensations.

3 pages when the proper response was in post 7.

1/2 Ton crew cab with the 6.5' bed is nominally the same length as a 3/4 ton crew cab with the 6.5' bed. The only body differences in length are the bumpers. The 1/2 ton will be more spry, acceleration, braking, etc. but the difference is not significant to me. The 3/4 is definitely taller, it may not fit in some garages. Getting in and out of the cab is harder, especially since I try not to slide out/off the seat.

I doubt anyone else has done it... but I would start with finding a steering column from the previous generation truck or wait until one of the refreshed HD's is out. That would at least take care of the hardware for the column shift. Then, if I were to guess, inside the hardware of the column is an electrical switch the column lever actuates - not at all unlike what the rotary knob does in the console. Wouldn't be surprised if getting the column switch to output the information the console switch does back to wherever the console switch does would be the easier part. "Command park, command reverse, command neutral, command drive, command manual..." Last, fill hole in console with part from the upcoming HD's.

Wow, that trailer isn't set up very well. Looks like maybe the axle is too far back, not easily fixable. Trailer cargo carrier would be a good idea; maybe look into moving the propane tank and battery to the rear. I'd hate to be running that hitch jack by hand with 900 pounds on it too. Was the truck loaded the same on all three passes? If you hitched it to my previous half ton, crew cab, short bed, 4x4, 5.3l, with no NHT and similar weight distribution, it would be within all ratings of the truck. (Front Axle Weight Rating 3950, Rear Axle Weight Rating 3950, Gross Vehicle Weight Rating 7200, Gross Combined Weight Rating 15000) You might be getting close (or even over) on the GVWR of the truck, but with proper weight distribution you would be well under each AWR front and rear by a couple hundred pounds or more. You would be well under the GCWR by several thousand pounds. I'd run it with out hesitation.

Might be overheating/aerating the fluid in the old shocks. New shocks might help some too by slowing the rebound so that it doesn't over-extend to the droop stops as quickly or sharply.

I think this is a reasonable sentiment. Mine was similar, I was upgrading my truck - if I didn't get a diesel I would have regretted it, no sense stopping at 2500, go 3500.

You're getting 920lbs of tongue weight out of just the trailer? Maybe some trailer repacking is in order - if the trailer is loaded to capacity (6000lbs). I'd try to get to 750lbs on the ball of the truck with out distribution on the scale. Then set up the distribution to compensate for rear end squat... measuring the front end raise and increasing the weight distribution so that the amount of raise is 1/2 what it was without distribution. That should leave a plenty amount of GVWR on the truck for anything you need. Long story short - I wouldn't be buying a 3/4 truck to pull that trailer.

I respectfully disagree with Tyler about preloading the spring. It will move the bottom of the strut further away from the strut/spring mount. Just like adding the spacer you already have does. This rotates the lower control arm farther down and takes the spindle and hub with it creating the lift amount. No additional compression or load is placed on the spring. There will be less amount of down travel or droop in the suspension because the upper control arm will closer to to its droop stop. Though not likely more than your current setup already does. This can have a negative impact on ride quality. However, I never experienced this. The shocks will be valved more aggressively than a factory shock, even more so than a worn one too. The additional damping can be described as being more stiff as the shocks more aggressively slow (control) the suspensions movement. Heavier rated tires and over-inflated tires increase the amount of compression the shock absorbers must control. This makes impacts over bumps more harsh. There is no difference between using the Bilstein shocks that have the adjustment ring for mounting height vs. the factory shock and an additional spacer to ride quality. (Aside from the difference in valving.) Since you did not notice a difference in the ride quality of the taller strut with spacer when you installed them, the Bilstein strut installed with the ring in the 'lifted' position will be similar to what you were already familiar with. The results you should expect after removing the factory struts with the spacer and replacing them with the Bilstein shock in the lifted position would be overall less motion in the trucks suspension. The initial impact of a road imperfection may be more noticeable, but any subsequent motions would be less. Generally, this is preferred by most.

The center console real estate is too valuable to me to waste on something I touch exactly twice per trip. I'm fine with the column shifter, but I'd go for a push button, rotary dial, touch screen - anything besides a console shifter that usually take up 1/2 the space there. Anybody travel with a woman knows there needs to be a place for the purse... which I'm surprised isn't better addressed in the SUV's

My experience operating a 1/2 ton truck pulling a travel trailer and running out of truck capacity... After spending several trips at the scales to set up the weight distribution on the hitch. I was able to comfortably tow a large travel trailer. I carefully charted front axle, rear axle, and trailer axle weights. The factor that caused me to upgrade was the LENGTH of the trailer and how much leverage it had over the truck. One suggestion is to pack as much of the items you travel with in the trailer where you can move it for and aft to adjust weight on the truck. 500lbs in the bed is 500lbs off the rear axle rating - in the trailer it can become 5lbs of tongue weight. You can PM me for exact weights I was loaded with.

A genius solution to a problem that shouldn't exist.

Last time I looked there were 3 options: Curt, Draw-tite and Eco Hitch. The Curt hangs down below the bumper valance, so no cutting but big hit to approach angle. The Draw-tite and Eco Hitch are both higher and require cutting the valance. Between those two its a choice between how much has to be cut and capacity. Check out e-trailer.com for more details.

Definitely report back; to me there is a fine line in perception between a stiffer ride and less bounce or repetitive motion. The common practice way for determining if the shocks are bad is bouncing the vehicle by hand if it goes up and down three or more times the shocks are worn. In practical terms, I hate anytime I hit a bump for the truck to bounce up from the bump then come back down hard... Not a problem in a 1/2 ton truck, but the heavier trucks struggle with this sensation when unloaded.

A$$hole. I got bleeped out.

Sorry, just me being an ****.

One tire brand works for me and one doesn't. I doubt they are making a Michelin tire right on the same line as the BFG. Not liking the Beetle isn't going to stop me from driving Bentley. Dur-Dur-Dur... Volkswagon owns Bentley - please, shut your mouth your drooling.

Circuit/System Description The K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary receives inputs from the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module; these inputs are used to determine trailer connection and the amount of voltage supplied to the trailer brakes. Conditions for Running the DTC Ignition ON. Battery voltage is 9–18 V. The module is powered up and completes initialization. Conditions for Setting the DTC C111B 03 The trailer brake power control module detects a voltage below a calibrated threshold on the battery positive voltage circuit. C111B 07 The trailer brake power control module detects a voltage above a calibrated threshold on the battery positive voltage circuit. C111B 5A The trailer brake power control module monitors the battery positive voltage circuit. C1595 00 The trailer brake power control module detects a short to ground, open or a short to voltage on the trailer brake control signal circuit. C1596 01 The trailer brake power control module detects a short to voltage in the trailer brake enable signal circuit. C1596 02 The trailer brake power control module detects a short to ground or an open in the trailer brake enable signal circuit. C1114 00 The trailer brake power control module detects a short to ground, open, a short to voltage or a plausibility failure on the trailer brake output circuit. For symptom byte information, refer to Symptom Byte List Action Taken When the DTC Sets C111B 03, C111B 07, C111B 5A The trailer brakes will be disabled as long as the fault is present. The driver information center (DIC) will display a Service Trailer Brake System message as long as the fault is present. C1595 00, C1595 01, C1595 02, C1114 00 The trailer brakes will be disabled for the remainder of the ignition cycle. The DIC will display a Service Trailer Brake System message for the remainder of the ignition cycle. Condition for Clearing the DTC The conditions for setting the DTC are no longer present. The trailer brake power control module clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 40 consecutive drive cycles. Diagnostic Aids The procedures used in this document are written to diagnose a concern with the customer’s vehicle with no trailer connected. A concern with the customer’s trailer may be the actual cause for a DTC setting or a circuit fault. Some customers may experience an intermittent “Check Trailer Wiring” message and/or a “Service Trailer Brake” message with DTC C1114. These concerns may be caused by a poor connection at the 7–way trailer connector. There are several manufacturers of 7–way (trailer side) connectors and many do not comply with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) standard specifications. Some 7–way (trailer side) connector plugs may not properly engage the truck’s 7–way connector socket and cause open circuits. Also, they may cause deformation and excessive wear of the terminals on the truck’s 7–way connector socket. Over time, this will lead to poor terminal tension between the 7–way (trailer side) connector plug and the truck’s 7–way connector socket. Since the trailer brake control module is always monitoring the vehicle and trailer circuits/components, a poor connection at the 7–way connector may cause a “Check Trailer Wiring” message on the driver information center. Engineering has recommended the use of Pollak Heavy Duty 7–way (trailer side) connector plugs. Pollak is the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) of the truck’s 7–way connector socket. The use of a Pollak Heavy Duty 7–way (trailer side) connector plug will ensure proper fit when the two connectors are mated. If the truck’s 7–way connector socket terminals are deformed or have excessive wear, it will be necessary to replace the truck side connector (use Genuine GM Parts) along with the trailer’s 7–way connector plug using Pollak HD connector plugs. Refer to PIT5311 for additional information. Circuit/System Verification Ignition ON. Verify that DTCs U1505, U1556, U2504, P2534, P2535, or any other communication DTCs are not set. If any of these DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If none of these DTCs are set Verify the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed in the driver information center If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed and the customer’s trailer is connected to the vehicle Disconnect the customer’s trailer. Verify the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed in the driver information center. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed after disconnecting the customer’s trailer, the circuit fault causing the DTC to set is located in the customer’s trailer wiring harness. This is not diagnosed in service information, nor is it covered by GM warranty. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed after disconnecting the customer’s trailer Refer to Circuit/System Testing. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed and the customer’s trailer is not connected to the vehicle Refer to Circuit/System Testing. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed and the customer’s trailer is available Verify the customer’s trailer connection is recognized with a Trailer Connected message in the driver information center. If the Trailer Connected message is not displayed when the customer’s trailer is connected to the vehicle Refer to Circuit/System Testing. If the Trailer Connected message is displayed when the customer’s trailer is connected to the vehicle All OK. Circuit/System Testing Note: You must perform the Circuit/System Verification before proceeding with the Circuit/System Testing. The following diagnostic procedure is for factory installed components and wiring on the customer’s vehicle. It will not diagnose a concern with the components and wiring on the customer’s trailer. The following diagnostic procedure is based on not having a trailer connected to the vehicle. Refer to PIT5311 for additional information before using this diagnostic procedure. Ignition OFF and all vehicle systems OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module. It may take up to 2 min for all vehicle systems to power down. Test for less than 10 Ω between the ground circuit terminal 9 and ground. If 10 Ω or greater Ignition OFF. Test for less than 2 Ω in the ground circuit end to end. If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω, repair the open/high resistance in the ground connection. If less than 10 Ω Ignition ON. Verify a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal 1 and ground. If the test lamp does not illuminate and the circuit fuse is good. Ignition OFF, remove the test lamp. Test for less than 2 Ω in the B+ circuit end to end. If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω, verify the fuse is not open and there is voltage at the fuse. If the test lamp does not illuminate and the circuit fuse is open Ignition OFF, remove the test lamp. Test for infinite resistance between the B+ circuit and ground. If less than infinite resistance, repair the short to ground on the circuit. If infinite resistance, replace the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module. If the test lamp illuminates Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary, ignition ON. Test for less than 1 V between the signal circuit terminals listed below and ground: K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 2 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 5 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 8 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 12 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 14 (if equipped with this wire) If 1 V or greater Repair the short to voltage on the circuit. If less than 1 V Ignition OFF. Test for infinite resistance between the signal circuit terminals listed below and ground: K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 2 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 5 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 8 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 12 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 14 (if equipped with this wire) If less than infinite resistance Repair the short to ground on the circuit. If infinite resistance Test for less than 2 Ω between the signal circuit terminals listed below: K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 2 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 23 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 5 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 22 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 12 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 30 K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 14 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 17 (if equipped with this wire) If 2 Ω or greater Repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω Test for less than 2 Ω between the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 8 and the Electric Brakes terminal in the trailer brake harness connector in the rear bumper. Refer to the diagram on the trailer brake harness connector cover for the terminal location. If 2 Ω or greater Repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω Test or replace the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module. Verify the DTC does not set while operating the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. If the DTC sets Replace the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary. If the DTC does not set All OK.

I think as long as the error is there, you won't get any power on the the brake output wire. I would start inspecting the wiring at the rear, especially the junction block behind the rear bumper. Pull the connectors and check for corrosion.

What have you checked on the trailer? The brake output wire goes from the trailer plug to each hub on the trailer, each hub is daisy chained together. The other wire in the hub is ground (doesn't matter which one). Make sure those grounds are good, and no other wiring issues. Make sure trailer is grounded to the truck - through the plug and hitch ball and if the hitch ball and coupler are old drive it a while to rub the rust off and get a clean connection there too.

My latest truck, which already had new tires on it when I bought it has Goodyear Wrangler Workforce HT tires on it. They are probably fine for a highway tire, but they are terrible on dirt, gravel and leaves. Haven't had them on snow or ice.