asilverblazer

Easy - stick with what works.

It'd be nice if the 2nd row captain chairs from the SUV's would bolt in... as you're aware though, the rear wall would be unfinished too, nor would there be room for them to recline either.

Common problem, there is another thread about it, looks like a new switch has just been released (in the las few weeks) that fixes it.

Not disagreeing with your logic - but the results you describe simply didn't materialize at all in my truck, loaded heavy, loaded light, unloaded.

I guess I wasn't as impressed as everyone else... I had them on my 1/2 ton, and the truck rode well. I added the shackles at the same time as I installed new shocks. The two improved ride maybe 10%. The ride was never harsh, I never had any kind of sway problems when towing. I would add them again IF the cost was about 1/2 what they sell for. They worked - but just weren't worth the price to me.

Also have to add that when towing the travel trailer, mpg in my 1/2 ton 5.3 vs. the 1 ton diesel is EXACTLY the same. 9 mpg Unloaded its comparable at 18-19.

I doubt its bottoming out, maybe engaging the overload springs. If it is bottoming out, I want a video of it, because I bet some air is involved.

I don't think one would ever recoup that $10k in fuel savings, range, efficiency or maintenance. All the emissions... $$$ when it starts failing. My better judgment was to get the gasser, because GM's gas engines are (aside from the latest lifter issues) bullet proof. 200-250k miles of trouble free service is the normal. I'll be surprised if I get that out of the diesel, not the engine itself - all the emissions stuff, DEF heaters and injectors, particulate sensors and filters. BUT - I knew if I didn't get the diesel, I'd regret it and wish I did. 900 lb ft...

I had the 5100 on my half ton first, my next 1/2 ton I used the 4600 and wished I used the 5100 instead. The 4600 still allowed more motion in the rear than I prefer. I recall basically the same as what you said that the 5100 were slightly different for larger tires. I recall watching a youtube video that the author claimed information from Bilstein that the differences was negligible as far as internal valving and a normal user would notice no difference between them but continued on with the same idea that a larger tire or lift warranted the use of the 5100. On my 1 ton, I went with 5100 based on results from my 1/2 tons.

Did you switch to a paper or other non-oiled filter? It's not getting too dirty from PVC is it?

Nice to know there are some aftermarket magna-ride shocks, when i had to replace some on a Cadillac a few years ago they were big bucks!

Oiled air filter?

Interest rates are up, who wants a 7% rate when a 2% was the norm not long ago. I'm not seeing anything less than 6.5 around here. That's with "here, take our money" credit too.

Door clicker sounds like a separate problem, maybe the coin battery in the fob or the contacts are dirty underneath. Don't think of it as a "battery" gauge, it's a gauge of the voltage available in the truck, Anything over 12 volts is from the alternator and is to charge the battery. The question you need to be figuring out is why are the lights coming on in the first place? If they are on long enough - they'll run the battery down even if its new.

Sounds like torque converter - but I'd be surprised if that's all it is. Probably going to need a rebuild on the transmission, anything over 150,000 miles could probably use one anyways.

The ones on my truck require a minimum PSI at all times... 5ish if memory serves. I didn't measure to see if that much raised mine any.

I think you're on the right track.

I was thinking along the same lines.

No miss fires? I'd do a compression check and throw a vacuum gauge on it all the basic diagnostic steps... Do those checks cold and warm. Sounds like a bunch of parts have been thrown at it without a thorough diagnosis. Start looking for air/vacuum leaks.

There is another thread about tire pressures that I would suggest (particularly the load inflation tables)... however, your assumptions are correct. If/when I am increasing the weight on any tire I increase its pressure accordingly, up to its maximum pressure/capacity. Below those amounts is some amount of compromise between comfort, fuel efficiency, tire load and tire wear. Empty, right now I am at 60 PSI all around. My heaviest trailer is 10-12000 lbs, I might see how it handles at 60 PSI. Additional PSI would help stiffen the sidewall some, it would also increase the amount of bounce the shocks have to control. The tires start to act like an over inflated basketball if there isn't enough weight on them - load tables above are the key.

That sounds like a shock absorber fix rather than airbags. Previous owner on my truck had the torsion bars cranked WAY up. This made the ride when towing pretty bad. Lower them back down had the best improvement in ride quality. Truck also has airbags on it, I've only got about 5 PSI in them. They seem redundant on my 3500, since its not even on the overload springs when towing. I put on Bilstein 5100s and took a bunch of motion out of the rear end. Also lowered the rear tire PSI down to 60 PSI, running them at 80 had too much bounce (like an over-inflated basketball).

I'll overhype them. No flats, blow outs, odd wear, out of round, poor balance, etc. with at least 4 different sets and over 200,000 miles of use (not on one set). I won't buy anything else for any of my trucks. I will NOT run Michelin. My experience with them has been bad.

Watts the fuse size? Pun intended.

BFG All Terrain T/A KO2

Other places manage seem to be able to handle it, Germany.