asilverblazer

What? Haven't heard of anything like that.

I was thinking along the same lines, but not familiar enough to know how a failure in that component would result in the brakes applying themselves. I lean more towards the booster not sealing up like it should (maybe contaminated by a failed vacuum pump). If you pull the vacuum line off the booster and the brakes release at least we're in the right ball park. The vacuum pump to my knowledge is always running, I don't recall ever seeing a clutch on it, seems to me it is either creating vacuum or not - it SHOULD be creating vacuum at all times (the problem would be present at all times too). I suppose one could try to pop the belt off the vacuum pump to rule it out of the equation.

I've lost maybe .5 - 1.5 mpg since 'flipping the pill' in mine, plus the transmission temperatures still get just as high as it did before, just takes a bit longer to get there.

Is the ABS pump active/running when this happens? Could the rear brakes be engaged too but masked by the front brakes? Engine vacuum leaking to the atmosphere side of the booster, would cause the brakes to engage without pedal input, not sure if that is possible though. Open the bleeder valves when they are locked up to relieve pressure. Pull the ABS fuse to rule out any ABS issues causing it. Doesn't sound like a problem with the brakes themselves at least past the ABS pump and valve body.

"Left me stranded in Canada for two weeks. We ended up trailering it home." One wheel or both lock up? Do they stay locked up? When/how do they unlock? 2wd or 4wd?

Probably a leaking shock bag, or air line. There is no side to side leveling, one ride height sensor controls both bags, one compressor inflates both bags.

"Blunt cut", taped in the bundle.

My previous truck had an issue where the driver side wouldn't get as cold as the passenger side. Took out the blend drivers blend door actuator, cleaned the contacts and greased the internals and that took care of it. Sounds like you are probably not dealing with a mechanical issue either. Confirm the compressor is engaging, maybe a temperature sensor is faulty telling the computer it is too cold to run the A/C.

IIRC its for a backup light. Not typically used on the seven pin connector.

The logic is sound, but why would anyone take a chance at a repeat bad product experience, that'd be just stupid.

Wrong quote...

Had the same issue on a 2009 GMC Acadia, is was a small solenoid/valve/sensor like described above to EVAP Purge... I don't remember but it was a pretty common and easy job on that car. I suspect it would be similar for a truck.

"DIMMING INTERIOR LIGHTS" I'd monitor voltage during these episodes. If the alternator is going bad, low voltage would cause all sorts of problems.

Looks good.

Sounds like the starter install didn't go right. I'd pull it off and re-inspect. One problem at a time, a no crank condition will not be resolved by the fuel system, get the cranking condition fixed, then move on to no start or hard start.

45? Like with a protractor? I was/am being facetious, I carefully cut beautiful corners with a precise paint can radius. Besides, that would've been 3 cuts, 1 to length then the two angle cuts.

I was annoyed at how carefully the corners had to be rounded to get the board to sit all the way down on the bed floor. Why couldn't one cut with the circular saw on the job site accomplish it?

Check that all the connections are clean and tight. Use a digital voltmeter to monitor the voltage on the battery while starting, if it drops below 10 volts, its bad and needs replaced. (Alternatively take it to an auto parts store to be load tested.) The cables can also corrode inside the insulation and no longer be able to carry current.

Check grounds and that cables are in good and tight condition. Battery cables can corrode inside the cable insulation. I've had good batteries test bad and vice-versa. Also had an alternator short out internally once too, tried jump starting it and only ended up with some really hot cables.

I'd scale it... the cynic in me sees GM trying to deny any future warranty claims using that one.

I see it now after I went back and took a closer look. I'm still not following how you fit the plexi between the red letters and chrome background and still had room for the LEDs under the plexi.

Really like it too! I've been looking for something like this for my truck, looks like you have a CAD file you are working from, any chance you'd be willing to share it? Also you talked about cutting out a recess for the plexi to index the letters. Do you have a section sketch describing what you did?

For the sake of continuing options to check, our Yukon had a rattle in the rear only while towing my horse trailer. Turned out air turbulence was rattling the license plate.

I think I've got one going bad. Its noisy, but still tight as a drum. 60,000 miles

Check the fuse, pulling the plug out sends full voltage to the brakes, might have pulled too many amps and blew the fuse.