asilverblazer

I'd say no to all the above. Check normal wear components like ball joints, tie rods, idlers, bushings, etc. Lube job too.

Things I would consider to compliment the saddle color and be unique. Brushed/burnished brass Wood to match the other wood Copper I'm mildly annoyed with the overall mismatch hodge podge of materials with no rhyme or reason to them, Dark gray or saddle, dull black plastic, a dribble of chrome then some wood... ...and on a side note, why does the shifter hide the seat climate controls?

I experienced the same. I think it is a time out thing, but no mention of it anywhere that I've been able to find, which is disappointing because its pretty alarming when it switches off unexpectedly.

Not many people would like to spend $11K on a truck they are getting rid of, or even keeping. I think the suggestions to further investigate the problem are valid and warranted, which seems to be the point of the thread to me.

I didn't watch the video - was the fuel pressure regulator changed? Sticky check valve in the fuel pump assembly?

Didn't know dealers were checking titles at the door... hint, hint...

Vacuum leak at throttle body gasket? Hose clamps tight on intake tube? MAF sensor clean and connection good? If the fluctuating idle only happened after messing with the throttle body, I'd inspect the installation of it. Check engine light on? Codes?

Is it hard to start every time? Once it has started with starter fluid can you shut it of and restart it regularly? It idles fine and purrs right along... what about driving, does it run and drive fine? I'd think any kind of blockage would not allow it to drive without major drivability symptoms.

Its only an asset if you have equity in it, that's hard to do, generally, in a vehicle that depreciates. Unless the payments are high enough to outrun the depreciation or a large down payment as a head start against it, most vehicle purchases are a liability. I'm not particularly arguing with you either... There isn't IMO a superior frugal position to be had with cars, they are a loss every which way you slice it. I think it comes down to getting the most out of the money you spend the only difference between any philosophy is what you are getting the most of (money, peace of mind, pleasure, pride, use, looks). Personally, taking care of my vehicles is a source of pride for me. Keeping them in good condition for a long time and being able to sell them for a good price is validation of that. That has a monetary benefit, but doesn't change why I do it. My opinion is similar to Grumpy's, the vehicle you already own will almost always be cheaper than switching - if you can do your own work. I know of instances where people have spent over $5k on a car worth less than 1/2 that. So there does come a point where it doesn't make sense.

Since I do all my own work - I can do a lot of repairs and upkeep on a car for the cost of a monthly payment. The cheapest option is one thing and what you want are another. I've done a bit of everything, bought new, used, kept, traded, sold... They ALL cost money. The one I think I did best on was my 2008 Silverado bought it new and kept it for 13 years took good care of it never had any major expenses and sold it for a good price. Followed by a 2009 Acadia that I bought for scrap value, made some repairs and got it back in decent shape and sold it for a decent price (basically flipped it). In the end I drive what I want and/or can pay for. The most important thing is taking care of it cosmetically and mechanically, because it will always help you in the future, either by it lasting longer for YOU, or selling/trading for more money to YOU. A good looking mechanically sound car is easy to sell or keep.

I think it is more global than just starting circuit. I'd do a quick ground verification with some jumper cables, ground the engine and chassis to the battery. I also had a n alternator short circuit internally. No amount of jumping or boosting the battery would let it start... But it did make a really hot battery cable that burned the $hit out of my finger.

This... And a way to confirm, install a fuel pressure gauge on the test port, shut the engine off and watch if it bleeds off pressure.

Check the bulbs, maybe a filament from the signal lamp broke and is back feeding the parking lamp circuit.

I bet you accidently unplugged something during the replacement. Carefully check all the wiring in the area, plus near the routing of the serpentine belt. "if I spray staring fluid it will crank but then it dies. I dont know if it is bad injectors or if its something else." Do you mean it runs on starting fluid but dies when you stop? What happens if you swap the starting fluid with fuel? Why did you replace the fuel pump?

Respectfully, I think it would be easier to confirm pump by checking the fuel pressure at the rail. Then begin diagnosing the pump wiring if fault is found with pressure.

Its not getting (any or enough) fuel into the cylinders. It is getting fuel to the rail, unknown if it is of sufficient pressure. OP noted that fuel is spraying out the test port.

Did it run before with the key you are using? (I can't remember how the theft deterrent shuts down fuel - it could be commanding the injectors off) Fuel pump is pressurizing the rail, that's why you can get a spray of fuel at the test port. Need to put a pressure gauge on it to see where that pressurized fuel is going or not going or if it strong enough. Ignition is working otherwise it wouldn't run on starting fluid. Compressions is probably okay as well as air intake because it wouldn't run on starting fluid with out those. It sounds like again you are running it on starting fluid because fuel isn't getting into the cylinders. I would recommend swapping the starting fluid for gasoline in a squirt bottle and see that it continues to run. What was the lead up to the problem(s)?

When you stop spraying the starting fluid does it die? Really sounds like no fuel from the injectors. A fuel pressure gauge on the test port would answer a bunch of questions. Cycle the key from off to run a few times, then kit the schrader valve, fuel should spray out (not dribble). If it doesn't the new fuel pump isn't pumping. Check power to pump or lines for blockage. Make sure the lines are clear between the pump and filter and filter and fuel rail. Incorrect key shuts down fuel delivery too.

Do you have to use the spray to keep it running? Will it run on its own once it is started? Can you confirm fuel pressure at the test port?

I like the frunk. I think of it as a workstation at the front. I am always using the tailgate as a work space. The frunk is enclosed and lockable for tool storage, power outlets for power tools and battery chargers. With the hood open its covered from rain and has overhead task lights. I would REALLY love it if it had a small diesel 'range extender' similar to how the Volt was set up. IIRC - the engine wasn't connected to the drivetrain and was only used to create electricity for the electric drive. Eliminates the sit and wait for hours to recharge the batteries, and lack of charging access out in the wild. All the benefits of electric drive - torque - without the downsides.

I would put a multi-meter on the battery and watch the voltage when turning the switch. For fun - take a jumper cable and go from engine to battery ground (ground the engine to the battery). I had a car do as you describe, adding an engine ground strap cured it. I've also got bad new batteries - twice in a row - that's why I'd watch voltage on it.

It is common for a 3/4 ton truck to ride stiffer than 1/2 ton truck. This is to carry the extra weight. Minor things that can be done, adjust tire pressure. Also, look at Sulastic shackles.

I think I would check to see if when the headlights come on the brake lights come on too. (I've heard stories of the filament in the tail light bulb - dual filament bulbs - breaks, falls on to the brake light filament. When the headlights come on, the tail lights come on, the above condition then energizes the brake light circuit which cuts off the cruise control.)

I doubt you can buy parts to fix it. I'd try some strategic disassembly to determine if/where there are any binds.

Yeah, think I'll update my "ignored users" list. Any feature that isn't working should be remedied by any means necessary, to me its about accountability. I paid GM for something and it should work. What if it was the engine that randomly restarted during the drive...