asilverblazer

and you were breathing through that!

Go to a dealer down the road, trade in truck and use that 10k as a down payment.

No thought about the cards, but not buying a gm CAR because you don't like how a financial institution is managing your credit card seems a little silly.

Ditto, I got over 200,000 trouble free miles on one, with probably another 150,000 in combination on others. Not to say I wouldn't try something else - but why fix what isn't broke?

I think they are concerned those markets aren't deep enough for all the players. So they stay in the main stream. I think the better description is their over whelming conservative product approach.

I imagine the OP has already made his decision, for future reference the BFG Trail Terrain on our Yukon Denali are great especially in the winter where they felt more secure than the All Terrains KO2s on my truck. FWIW: I won't buy any other brand besides BFG. Every set I've had have performed flawlessly - and every other brand have been junk (Michelin, Pirelli, Continental, Goodyear, General... all nope)

Unplug the booster and plug the vacuum line, at least confirm whether the booster is the problem or the master cylinder.

Any noise coming from the alternator under the hood is mechanical, and will not be cured by these devices.

Determining the cause of failure might be easier once its determined what has failed. Lifter failure hasn't been ruled out from previous posts. These engines are more prone to those than valves. ...Its a bit late to ask this in the diagnosis. Codes? (I bet there are a bunch of them.) A low compression oil burning engine suggests some time at a machine shop wouldn't be out of the question. A least servicing the heads...

Do you hear the whining under the hood at the alternator, or is only coming through the audio system?

Its easy to move air against no resistance. Maybe check compression on all cylinders, regardless of gauge condition they should all be about the same. Do you have a vacuum gauge you can connect to manifold vacuum while the engine is running? A valve problem will be very apparent on a vacuum gauge. A burnt valve will still move, but doesn't seal. It SOUNDS like you've already addressed the easy fixes... and should be pre-paring to at least pull the head. Before I'd do that (its a lot of work), I'd make real sure by checking compression and vacuum readings.

Is the lever and cable oriented correctly to the actual transmission?

Either Bilstein 5100's or Magnaride. If you aren't lifting it - Magnaride. My experience has been that the Magnaride shocks are $$$ but work exceptionally well for a 'smart' shock/ride. If you don't want to spend the money the Bilsteins are the best traditional shock for the money.

Compression? Maybe burnt valves. Try systematically swapping components to a known good cylinder, injector, spark plug, wire, coil. One at a time Eventually the misfire will follow one of those components. If it doesn't, its limited to a mechanical issue at cylinder 7, which a compression check should reveal.

I would start with trying to narrow down where the binding is occurring. Put the truck in 4wd, Jack it up so all the tires are off the ground and see what happens. Maybe remove the front driveshaft see if it makes a difference. Has it always done this? Tire size uniform? Are the front and rear differential ratios the same?

I think it is mostly the short commute. Is the truck even getting up to temp? I bet its running open loop the whole time.

1/2 x 200 = 100 0 x 100 = 0 0 does not equal 100 /\ I'm just teasing about that... I think you are getting at that in the future the amount of ICE vehicles will remain relatively constant or comparable to present quantities. I disagree because they will eventually be discarded as the wear out, break and get crashed. We WILL reach a peak ICE vehicle number and it WILL decline after that; at that point fueling them will only get more difficult. That could be 100 years in the future or 10 - I don't know, nor am I speculating... kind of like leaded gasoline. I'm sure it used to be easy to find, cheap, etc. Try finding it now.

If I'm doing a cam swap, I'm going to hit all the valvetrain with upgrades. Intake and throttle body aren't going to be big power sources. However those are pretty easy to do - as part of a full bolt-on process, tune, headers, CAI, intake manifold and throttle body, exhaust, maybe some bigger injectors, colder t-stat for more aggressive tuning. That should be a pretty potent engine without pulling heads.

I think the long term fuel sources are also tied to our homes - how many are heated with natural gas, propane and heating oil? Plus look at all the infrastructure tied to those industries. They are going anywhere anytime soon, but as demand lessens for unleaded and then eventually diesel, it will become harder to find and more expensive to buy. When 1/2 the cars seen on the road are electric - you think fuel will be on every street corner? That being said, I agree with the above - I'm not opposed to electric, so long as I can tow an RV 500-750 miles and be at my destination in less than 12 hours then readily re-fuel - err charge - fine. As was said though it'll be a long time (if ever) before those out of the way places have the electrical infrastructure in place.

Vacuum leak Dirty throttle body Sticking torque converter clutch

Probably went to the stabilitrack button - when equipped. Try unhooking the battery.

I bet that's it. Every similar body that has an integrated bed has those buttresses off the cab. Its definitely a step further away from traditional trucks than I expected.

Maybe you need to look for an adjustable shock - similar to Rancho 9000.

Air suspension is already a factory option. Magneride shocks have always performed well except for replacement cost if they fail. I think the Anderson hitch would be a wise investment for your set up. Also, most toy haulers will be extra tongue heavy with out an accompanying toy to balance it out albeit this only adds more overall weight. Another thing to look at is the amount of rear overhang on the Tahoe vs. Suburban. The shorter rear overhang on the Tahoe will have better driving dynamics than the Suburban by brining the tongue weigh of the trailer closer to the rear axle where it will have less leverage over the truck. Of course, include a trailer brake controller. Auxiliary transmission cooler too. ...and you're a menace to society, you'll kill your self and all the rest of us too - sarcasm...

No, the cool tone of the silver would clash with the warm tone of the saddle.