asilverblazer

GM ergonomics aren't quite what they used to be... My 15 is terrible: Seat climate controls hidden behind shifter Dash vents situated to either freeze your hands off or blow anywhere else but on you Dash taller than everest Seats as low as a Tacoma Sliding rear window control makes no sense Definitely gonna be more aware of these things on my next truck - at least with GMC vs Chevy you can get some different dash layouts that might better suit different drivers.

Was the switch replaced for this problem or prior to it?

I think your best bet is getting an extended warranty (or discount on one).

BFG Trail Terrains I won't put a Michelin tire on anything I own.

Check battery voltage - probably left the doors open while doing the work and ran it all the way down.

I think you will have a hard time getting an acknowledgement that there is something wrong with the truck, because it is easier for them to blame the trailer. They could also monitor the trailer brake output using a multimeter, but not sure how they would establish a baseline to compare it to to determine if the truck is indeed at fault. My point being is that it may in fact be sending 'low' or 'insufficient' voltage to the trailer brakes but they could claim it is performing as intended and you would have no way to counter it other than your subjective comparison. In my opinion, your only course of action that could get some actual results they could work with would be to get them to let you compare your truck to one off the lot. If the one on the lot performs like you expect, monitor its trailer brake outputs and compare it to yours. I think your transmission is performing correctly, and I agree with your reasoning for the manual shifts too.

If you are comparing the built in trailer brake controller to an aftermarket add on controller they won't precisely function the same or result in similar trailer brake action. The built in trailer brake controller isn't inertia based like an aftermarket controller. It will modulate the voltage to the trailer brakes based on braking commanded by the trucks braking system, setting the 'gain' to cause the trailer to lead the trucks brakes or to a level that results in trailer brake lock up may not even be possible. To determine conclusively that there was "absolutely no trailer brakes" one would need to connect a mulit-meter to the output at the trailer wiring harness and monitor the voltage being applied to the trailer brakes. My normal braking produces a voltage typically less than 3-5 volts but I have seen as high as 7. Not sure what the exact question of the gear selection is, but I think your description is of normal behavior. Moving the gear lever to a position other than "D" which one might equate to moving it out of over drive in the old days isn't needed in newer trucks, where you instead using the tow-haul function to limit unnecessary shifting and optimize transmission behavior for towing is better.

This usually causes a "service lane keep assist" error (don't quote me on the terminology because I don't remember it). I had to repair my driver side vibrator for this same reason. It wasn't hard at all, remove the trim panel, unhook the seat cover clips, pull the motor out of the seat foam and unplug it from the harness. Repair the wiring at the motor where it usually breaks and put it back together. I doubt this is the problem because the OP has noted there is no error codes. Maybe they are unplugged or removed completely? I would inspect the seat to make sure the motors are present and functional by pulling them out and bench testing them.

Is it enabled in the settings?

How do you know? I had a similar problem and had to cut open the housing to verify and repair. How did they verify this?

If you are planning full time, your level of commitment must be high, might as well go big on the truck and pick what ever trailer you want. What reason do you have to stick with the truck you have, besides a monetary one? I can answer it for you - none.

Factory trailer plug? Carefully check that each wire function to the plug is correct, clean and secure. Tekonsha controllers are very sensitive to good grounding, so check those well.

Don't get in a hurry, speeds over 65mph will be questionable with stability. Steep grades will be challenging. Otherwise it should be fine. If you are going lots of miles (more than 500 miles) or real often (several trips a year) a larger truck might be more comfortable.

I'll try to remember... I did test it, the additional light isn't as noticeable on the camera because the actual back up lights are on too, it helps and there isn't any additional glare in the camera so its still an improvement just not as big.

I hate trying to hitch a trailer in the dark... added some lights, that turned out really well. They are connected to the bed/cargo lights so they work with the switch in the cab. Wires follow the camera wire through the tailgate and under the bed. I tapped the bed lights where they connect in the junction on the drivers side frame rail at the rear behind the spare tire. Drilling through the tailgate bezel was easy, there is plenty of room on the backside too. Torx bits for the access panel and 10mm socket to remove the handle assembly. They work great and they are pretty discreet during the day, they don't stick out very far at all, the yellow lens is more obnoxious in the pictures than in person. LED lights were from Amazon: Amazon link 11mm in cool white, these are more expensive than others, I tried several though and these were the best combination of discreet mounting vs. light output. Before: After: Daytime (ignore finger): Up close:

I think you'll be fine, anecdotally, I'm pulling a much bigger trailer both size and weight without issue. Ratings aside, the truck will be fine. If you are worried about the ratings - you're under them - send it. Properly set up the weight distribution and trailer brake controller and travel on. Of course, you'll find people that say not to exceed 50% of of some rating too. ({})

Put the truck in reverse and the cargo lights come on with no way to turn them off - might cause a glare.

I think I'd be looking at two solutions. 1. A seal at the intake tube to air box. 2. Modify part 16... A cap or shield on top of part 16 so that if water came in over the grill it wouldn't be able to dump into the intake tube. Air would only come in from the side (towards the center). It looks like down in the recessed portion of part 16 water can drain out of it. Maybe its not draining fast enough. Add more drain holes or removing part 16 entirely, this would compromise the amount of air it directs through the actual radiator. A dam of some sort to keep water that does accumulate in part 16 from draining down the intake tube.

You think water is getting in from the connection of the intake duct to air box? Is the duct one piece from the air box up to the top of the radiator? If the above are true, sealing the connection from the intake duct to the air box would be really easy with a rubber bulb type gasket. I'd also add one of those hood scoop cowl drains like on the HD trucks, a little rubber flap that lets water drain out but not splash in, to the bottom of the air box below the filter. A 'bow wave' when fording could easily swamp the top of the radiator too, not that that type of situation is the discussion here. Another thinking out loud thought... what if one was to get one of those AC condensate moisture sensors that shuts off the compressor if the condensate line is blocked off. Mount it in the air box to shut off ignition if water gets in the air intake.

Are you saying the fender liners are different or its because the TB has the factory lift? A shield in front of the opening into the air box might be simple enough to craft.

I don't understand how water is getting past the fender liner/splash guard. Care to elaborate on your findings or photos of what you are describing?

First make sure you are following the instructions in the owners manual exactly... if its still a no go. There are a few variables to consider, there are two opener frequencies, one is newer and one is older. Second, one of the opener designs in the trucks was involved in a lawsuit and has been made obsolete (Lear openers). There are a few solutions, if your garage door opener is the newer frequency, I would replace the homelink module in the truck with a newer one (use a part number from a 2015 truck like mine for example). If my memory serves, the 2012 truck generation uses the older frequencies that will not program to newer garage door openers, you have the option of above replacing the trucks module, or adding a homelink repeater. This plugs into a wall outlet in your garage. It has to be programmed to your opener and truck and acts like a middle man between them. I used both solutions on various cars/trucks and preferred putting in new homelink modules in the vehicles and removing the homelink repeater from the equation.

So someone else should have got in front of her car and impeded her speed? Be my guest, maybe you could have got a 2 for 1 special in funeral services. Hall monitor Security guard Citizen speed watcher Bus monitor Tattle tale peas-ina-pod Puleeze I don't have room in my life for such self righteousness.

If someone is behind you and wants to go faster, my opinion is it is rude to impede their desire period. Doesn't matter if its legal or not. I have no desire to enforce the law on others. Besides there is no reason not to try to make it easier for them to get around you. The more assertive or aggressive they are the more you should try to accommodate them. They will only get more frustrated and engage in riskier behavior that would ultimately put yourself at risk. Pull over, move over and let them go, everyone is happy. You want to hold traffic up behind you, fine - but if you die getting tangled up in a crash with someone, doesn't matter if you were going the speed limit or not you're still dead and I doubt there will be one word at your funeral about how righteous you were on the road.

2wd or 4wd? If it is 4wd is engaged? While turning or going straight? Does it have RPO code G80?