asilverblazer

This guy... its a simple function of harmonic resonance, the list of variables to induce it is long; from the trucks wheelbase, spring rate, tire pressure, to speed, bump height and spacing, etc. All similar trucks will experience it if the right variables are met. Look up an old video on youtube about bed bounce. Its a comparison of trucks all traveling down a straight road at probably 35mph and they are all over the road, (including your F150 contrary to them trying to tell you otherwise) left unchecked it could lead to a fishtail. You losing control of your truck on a washboard road does not mean that the literally hundreds of thousands of these trucks are violently careening off the road for no reason what so ever and through no fault of the driver is ridiculous.

Dealer only for my FOB replacement. ...and it took them 3 hours. The truck's blah blah blah module needed to be updated in order to program a new FOB.

Its so easy to put more than 1/2 a ton in the bed of a 1/2 ton truck though... if it fits it ships.

Check the bulbs.

Look out there Pot. I'm not gonna ignore you though, I like a good laugh.

Great ride, poor payload.

The only thing left that might be 'simple' is check all electrical connections to the transmission. If it is not a mechanical failure that requires rebuild it is an electrical issue that a more sophisticated diagnostic tool should uncover. In any case, I would expect a significant number of dash warnings... in other words, if you don't see anything external, its going to need to go to a shop.

I think he is implying that the rear wheels are slipping... 11's

Operating the vehicle contrary to what is described in the owners manual is not covered by warranty. Lead foot much in the 6.2?

Does the check engine light function at initial start up? What does this mean? The gear selector cannot be put in the reverse position? If put in the reverse position what does the gear indicator do? Does the lever go into reverse and the indicator indicate reverse but nothing happens? So far I'd expect a torque converter and transmission rebuild is in order. Does the truck otherwise start and run fine? Mileage on the odometer? Any grinding or other odd noises?

While you are gathering pertinent information, check engine light ought to be on, so get a code reader and see what codes come up.

Did he though?

I sued a Draw-tite on mine, the front clips are different obviously and I had to cut an opening in the bumper valance... but it is way higher and less likely to get stabbed into the dirt. Wondering if one that was higher was available for the newer trucks?

FYI: I installed the Draw-tite on my truck. I don't think it will cause any approach angle issues. At least the hitch won't, of course, anything in the hitch might. Hardest part of the install was cutting the bumper valance neatly. A second person on hand helps to wrestle it into place. Draw-tite 65078

What issue?

Well you are on a GM forum - The Ranger better be CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP before I'm interested. 4x4 Rangers aren't as common around here, to get one with any kind of power you need the 4.0 V6, and MPG on those aren't good, compared to a GM V8. So for me, a 4.0 V6, 4x4 extended cab Ranger has to be around $5K or I'm stepping up to the 5.3 V8, 4x4 extended cab Silverado/Sierra. The Ranger just isn't worth more than that TO ME.

I don't mean to discredit you, but my experience with this line was... 'disappointing'. I actually find it difficult to 'see' a quality difference, particularly among OEM type/style replacement parts. They should all be the same size and should be of the same design. The only differences could be metallurgy, maybe different grease, synthetic or rubber blend, maybe a different type of plastic. I think it applies more to these types of parts too like a tie rod end; in my mind how 'different' can they be?

The best way is a taller kit, most of those top out at 6" though... once you go outside kit territory it's custom fabrication. Definitely something best left to professional shops. However, depending on the kit... it could be possible to combine some lift components to gain an extra inch or two. If the original lift kit raised the truck by lowering the entire suspension and DID NOT include any type of lift by torsion bar adjustment or spindle swap then you could add a little more by using the torsion bar keys. After looking at the what is on Rough Country's web site, with out a careful comparison to factory parts its hard to say exactly where all the lift is coming from. I suspect it comes from a little torsion bar adjustment from the "non-torsion bar drop brackets", spindles, and dropped cross member. The kit's geometry is altering CV-shaft angles and already includes a spacer to avoid over extending the shafts. They include this interesting verbiage: "to reduce cv angles and SIMULATE factory angles". I think this means they have increased the angle from factory, but they have reduced the angle from what it could be by other lift means. All the above to say: You could add some additional with torsion bar keys or cranking the adjustment bolts up. This will increase ball joint stress and wear and CV-shaft stress and wear. How much further you can go is determined by what compromises you want to make for longevity, ride quality and reliability.

I wouldn't want to be the odd man out, when all your friends are driving their trucks through the mud or taking their cars to the drag strip... but do what YOU want. Pick a car you like, want to drive, can be proud of - but don't forget all the other things you want too: cheap, reliable, easy to maintain, parts... NOT A COP MAGNET... Having an ugly car is no fun, having a broken car is no fun, spending all your money on a car and not having anything left to spend on other stuff is no fun, getting stopped by the cops every week is no fun. I get it, having people make fun of your choice is no fun either. Your avatar image has dirtbikes on it - do you plan on carrying them in the truck bed? A lifted truck will make that harder to do a car or SUV will be impossible. How many passengers will be riding in the vehicle, a Ranger is good for 3 people max (with an extended cab). Lastly, what IS the budget, is it a purchase price? Will left over money go to 'customizing'? How are you fueling it? Uh-oh, I need a new battery, alternator, water pump, tire, how are those being bought? I just rattled off $500 of parts (not labor at a shop to have replaced) that ANY used vehicle can have go bad. It all goes back to this is YOUR vehicle, if its not working for you or the money doesn't work... you might as well be a foot.

Battery, there was a ground stud nearby - it all goes back to the battery so that's where I went. No codes. I bought 25' cables and it took essentially all of it to go from the battery to the back. I had to buy more to go from the battery to the front (and made another set of jumper cables with the left overs).

I'm not dogging mevo - like I said, I've never purposefully used them. You seem to be comfortable with them, I see no reason to doubt or question your judgement. I will say though that I would fully expect for them to say how much better their product is on their own site. Who wouldn't?

Bad, bad, bad, some torsion bar cranking is OK sounds like you've gone too far already and are trying to go farther. You probably are operating with the ball joints, CV axles, and tie rods at angles outside their design. Ball and socket joints only go so far before they try to 'pop out' causing premature wear and literally pop out. Also, with too much torsion bar cranking the suspension runs out of droop or downward travel, causing poor ride quality - this is the first sign you've gone too far. The proper way to lift that amount is to lower (raise) the entire front suspension and differential the lift amount.

I agree with all the above except come on a Ranger or Corolla? Thats just mean. OP probably is to naïve to admit it BUT, this first vehicle will probably get wrecked. Likely in the first 12 months. No one wants to wreck their 'dream' car and NEVER keep a wrecked one.

This is not consistent with your stated goals. Wouldn't you? 150K or less as your budget allows, maybe 175K. A well cared for truck will look, drive, smell, sound and feel like a new truck. Lots of rattles squeaks was driven over rough roads. Obvious stains, scratches, tears, dents, dirty, especially in crevices and under seats, door jambs, etc. If the previous owners weren't detailed in keeping it neat and clean they probably weren't detailed in proper maintenance either. If the back tires have noticeably more wear than the front tires... burn outs. The tires should have an even amount of wear across the entire tire tread width, all tires should be worn evenly among the four of them. Under the hood - missing parts, hoses, disconnected things. If you see wire nuts any where... Leaks, odd noises, vibrations, shakes, jerks, bad rust... Does it accelerated properly, brake, steer and ride correctly? Check that all the lights on the dash work (bulb check when you turn the ignition on) and no trouble lights are lit. If the check engine light is on - don't buy it, and don't buy any lame excuses for it either. Same goes for any other trouble lights, brake, TPMS, ABS, etc. Won't start - don't buy it, Won't go into gear or shift right - don't buy it. Key FOB don't. head lights won't come on, AC doesn't work - DON'T BUY IT (Unless you want to deal with the problems that the previous owner chose not to, FOR A REASON). A well cared for truck should be just as obvious as an abused one. Regardless of age or mileage it should still function and operate like a new truck. My 2007 with 250k on it did.

Based does not mean manufactured... I have no experience with the brand that I recall, as always, buyer beware. FWIW, I've never been disappointed with OEM parts.