asilverblazer

I don't think it is an actual problem - dismiss the warning and carry on. I would hold on to the scale ticket though.

If you are using spacers, just get the cheap $40 ones... given the age of the truck, I would consider swapping out the front shocks with something like Bilstein that would include the level in the shock. Either route you go will require an alignment to correct too much toe in.

I think we're trying to talk to an AI Chat bot.

Which brake light quit? You plugged the left rear assembly into the right rear position, activated the right signal and the left assembly signal (in the right position) did not flash? That sounds like the assembly is defective. Running light failure on mine was intermittent, you could bang on the assembly and it would work/flash with each hit.

Color me surprised... seems to new for this problem.

Your tuner should be able to assist... I would expect a competent tuner to see the issue via a data log. What intake are you using? Have you investigated if it clearing up is when the truck is switching to closed loop?

Sure could, looks like your diagnosis confirms it.

Missed the gutted cat part... I'd bet for sure they were smoked as a result of the problem. Must be running too rich in open loop, goes to closed loop, sees the rich condition and leans out the fuel trims. For sure be looking at the air intake track.

My thinking is if it is clearing up once warmed up - in closed loop - then the sensors are allowing the engine to sufficiently determine/overcome the issue and adjust parameters accordingly. My initial guess would be an air/fuel ratio issue... I wouldn't expect a significant timing adjustment from cold to hot or open to closed loop. I also wouldn't expect a spark problem to clear up either (considering it is across all 8 plugs, wires and coils). Fuel trims would be something I watch on a scan tool, especially going in to closed loop. I would also watch fuel rail pressures. Other suspects, if the engine isn't getting a correct 'assumed' amount of air during open loop air intake system might be a culprit. Filter type, style, condition? Mass air flow sensor is probably registering correctly in closed loop.

Is it clearing up when it goes to 'closed loop' vs. 'open loop'?

Make sure the battery cables are good. Make sure the motor is grounded too. Simple test would be to connect the negative jumper cable from the motor to the battery negative. Leave the positive cable disconnected, if it starts the engine is not grounded.

Previous owner re-painted over mine. They acted weird - I was able to peel/sand off the extra coat/layer of paint, they resumed working correctly. You can also get painted ones on Ebay, make sure the part numbers are otherwise the same as yours or they won't work.

I would try to more controlled testing to get some more concrete data/temperatures. A set of 'cold' tests; first record temperature prior to starting, drive 1 mile at 65 mph stop with "x" amount of pressure or within "y" feet. Record temperature, then let brakes cool to beginning temperature and repeat several times. Record all the temperatures and pulsation experienced. A set of 'hot' tests; first record temperature prior to starting, drive 10 miles at 65 mph stop with "x" amount of pressure from previous test or within "y" feet, same as above. Record temperature, then let brakes cool to beginning temperature and repeat several times. Record all the rotors temperatures and pulsation experienced. ANY brake applications other than the application to stop voids that test. The only difference between the test is the time/distance at 65mph for the brakes to heat up prior to stopping. If the brakes are dragging, the 'hot' test will show a repeatable measurable difference in temperature. How does each side compare to the other, is one side heating up more than the other? You mentioned the drivers side seeming hotter and a sticky pin, but not where it was. Your tests above should confirm this. What are the rear brakes doing temperature wise? Then - How does this compare to another truck? Run the same test in a loaner, rental, test drive, buddy's truck as similar to your own as possible. The comparable truck will either not drag like yours or build up heat like yours. If your truck is heating the brakes more than another - the calipers and guides or collapsing brake line are the likely component in the braking system that could cause it. Also, could something be preventing the proper amount of air getting to the rotors to cool them off? Aftermarket wheels, modifications that would alter the aerodynamics... If your truck isn't heating the brakes up more, are your parts more susceptible to 'something' causing a vibration due to 'normal' heat build up than others? The pads might have something in them that cause normal heat to make them 'stickier' or the rotors might be warping abnormally... in either case, parts changing, again, would be the only solution. The test/temperatures will tell us a bunch more to diagnose.

Are you sure its not just a warped rotor and you just aren't noticing it at lower speeds? How do you know the front brakes are hotter than 'normal'?

Some amount of searching to find a topic on here about this... but it has happened before to other trucks. I don't remember the solution.

If memory serves you just need the tool to get the keys up enough to get the adjustment bolts started? Have you tried to get more droop out of the lower control arm so there is less pressure on the torsion bar? Pulling the knuckle from the lower or upper control arm to let it down further, stabilizer bar end links...

...yet... However, no one will ever have enough data to know how much is too much and at what rate. I thought the TB had different upper control arms, but I might be making that up. That's more than I would do. With out a different upper control arm there is no way the ride is not compromised. They would almost certainly have to be riding on the droop stops.

So what do the miss fire counts and fuel trim look like? Trying to determine if you have a cylinder 7 problem or an engine fueling problem. Correcting for tire size will change your MPG, calculated or truck computer. The odometer is off so the miles driven is not correct. Your 3 symptoms, pinging (pre-ignition combustion), detonation (post ignition combustion) and poor MPG's. The poor MPG's may not be as bad as you are thinking based on the odometer being off. How do you know you are getting detonation in V4 mode? The engine will have a different sound, compared to V8 mode, it will be more of a drone in V4 mode. I think the pinging is still tune related. Since you have no way to confirm whether the factory tune is the 'factory' tune or not, it may need to be seen by a professional tuner to investigate further. Generically speaking, a tune is going to be more aggressive with timing, too much = pinging. My recommendation at this point is to visit a reputable in person tuner. They would be able to determine if there is a tune problem and if not they would have the tools to better determine the problem.

Depends more on if you like the other content of the package. Strictly ride quality speaking, I don't think it is worth it. You could find a better aftermarket shock than the factory Rancho.

Assuming you don't have access to some quality scan tools to monitor live data, particularly fuel rail pressure from the high pressure pump and miss fire counts... My course of action below is easiest cheapest to more expensive harder... Lots of variables are being introduced... first, I would return to factory tune, then I would put the factory intake back on, a quality paper air filter and careful thorough cleaning of the mass air flow sensor. The intake probably came with a reusable filter that is oiled, it could have been over oiled and contaminated the sensor. I would hold off on this until other issues are resolved and confirmed not to be a problem. Mostly, because this is difficult and expensive to repair. Unless further more detailed diagnostics can confirm a fueling issue at the injectors. This definitely needs addressed, whether its the root cause or a casualty. New AC Delco plugs would be a start, then AC Delco plug wires. If the miss fire persists, then start checking the coil and injector. An underperforming cylinder will lower fuel mileage. Unless a careful monitoring of all cylinder miss fire counts reveals a problem on all cylinders in which case I would skip back to the fuel pump.

Just to cover the basics... I would do some braking comparisons, full pedal stop, and measure the distance. Comparing your truck to one just like it would be best in addition to a similar truck like an F150. The measured distance is what is important. All this just to eliminate the possibility it is the braking pedal FEEL you are not having a problem with. Mostly, because your description of the braking PERFORMANCE is not typical of these trucks, however, a more common complaint would be the pedal feel. Having to press more or further on the pedal may give the impression that the brakes are not as good. Some brakes are more sensitive giving the impression that they are stopping better. Otherwise, make sure they have been bled properly and the rear shoes are in proper adjustment. Lastly, upgrading the front brakes will yield more noticeable improvements than fiddling with the rears. If you do upgrade the fronts, I'd go full tilt with something like Willwood including bigger rotors and bigger calipers. I wouldn't want to go through the effort and expense to rebuild brakes and not be impressed.

The PCM may have been tuned by previous owner. Have you tried running premium fuel? Any other modifications to the truck? Oversize tires, lift or leveling kit? Bigger tires and a lift would net fuel mileage similar to what you report. Pinging and detonation are usually a timing problem, not a fueling issue. What PSI is the fuel pressure dropping to? ...maybe... the low pressure pump is starving the engine of fuel, causing a lean burn... which is hotter... leaving hot spots in the cylinder causing the problem... I would expect some codes though for all that.

Slight buck... not at idle... not at WOT... no misfire code... when torque converter is trying to lock... ...may not be a miss at all.

Not necessarily, the inside of the caliper is loaded differently from the outside. The inside face between the pistons is in tension, which is controlled by the additional metal surrounding the pistons, the outside, where the rib is, is in compression. Likely the reason for the rib. I doubt fluid will burst out of the caliper... Back in the early 2000's GM had Bosch (If memory serves...) assist with the re-design of the brakes on full size trucks. One of the findings was excessive flex of the caliper. The result at that time was poor pedal feel. How much flex was there... don't know. In this case I doubt it would even be measurable. Some material analysis in a computer simulation likely showed it. In practice, trying to reverse engineer a brake caliper with grinders, tape measure, or any tools any of us have access to won't reveal much. You could grind it off completely and likely never even notice; but there is that one scenario out of ??? that it would be a problem. Not sure what actual answer to the mystery you would expect to find that you haven't already - grind it off completely. Bolt it on and see what happens is all that's left. Unless we want to wait for the engineer to post his analysis and design of the caliper. Not being a jerk or anything, just having a discussion about it.

You would get additional lift. It would increase operating angle of the lower ball joint and CV-shafts they would be operating out side of their designed parameters and the result is usually decreased service life. The aftermarket upper control arms might rectify the upper ball joint angles, and increase suspension down travel to make up for the taller strut assembly moving the suspension geometry closer to the droop limit. If the aftermarket upper control arms DO NOT fix those, then the upper ball joint would be subject to the same limitations as the lower ball joint - reduced service life from operating outside the design parameters. Additionally, the ride would suffer by hitting the droop stops prematurely in the suspension cycle.