asilverblazer

The rib across the back of the pistons is to reduce flex or deformation of the caliper. It was engineered there for a reason - taking any of it off is risk vs. reward calculation.

Bummer... I expect we will see this more often. The tailgate is a prime candidate for weight savings engineering. I've never witnessed a failed tailgate on a square body or GMT400. GMT 800s the cables would break. Seems like early on they were 'over engineered' because some loads would inherently be placed right on the end during loading or unloading. As trucks became used less for load carrying that safety margin becomes less relevant. As a percentage of users those loading the tailgates like this are negligible. I'd bet a tailgate from a 92 model truck could hold more than from 2022 - I'd bet 500 lbs more... any takers?

I had what I swore was a bearing - ended up that a tire rotation and balance fixed it.

Address the 'lost power while driving'. Start checking the battery, battery cables, connections and grounds. Check the connections to the PCM for corrosion, bent pins, damaged wiring. A messed up PCM is very rare.

Leather terminology is such a mess... the likely hood of anything in a vehicle being an actual intact piece of hide is slim. Maybe in a Mercedes, like an S class, Maybach, AMG or some other option, otherwise I would be very suspect... probably something like 'bonded' leather, 'Genuine' leather, etc. (My 2006 AMG S class 'leather' aged very well, I didn't feel the need to investigate further its actual leather type) Add in the multitude of finishing techniques and its no telling what you are actually dealing with. Wear lines or cracks like what is typically seen in car seats don't appear in actual leather (maintained) unless it was present in the cow to begin with, at least to an extent. Leather is a natural product that will wear and patina. Think of things like saddles, boots, belts, holsters, etc... they'll last decades. Not very many modern 'leather' products in vehicles are going to accomplish that. In short the leather you hate is probably closer to faux leather than you might think.

Curiosity got the better of me... reviewing the upfitter drawings of the truck seat mounting locations. It DOES show some trucks with seat mounting holes in the same location as the SUV's. Notes on the drawing have some inconsistencies, it is noted as GMT 900 series for 2011, which is not accurate for a 2018 model. Further, I don't recall ANY rear seat configuration on any truck GMT900 or later that has seat mounts similar to the SUV. All the truck rear seat mounts are near the back wall of the cab. The SUVs are forward, under the seat bottom proper. Depending on how serious you are, download the body builder files that show the SUV seat mounting hole locations, pull the carpet on your truck and see what's there. Best case scenario (unlikely) is the holes and captured nuts are there. Worst case scenario (likely) nothing is there, requiring drilling and some rivet in blind nut inserts. Maybe even some bracing under the floor...

SUV rear captain chairs won't bolt in. You'd have to modify the floor pan of the truck to accept the mounting points of the new seats.

"microfiber leather" If it was REAL leather...

Looks like it was a hub/unit bearing failure. That is the only way the rotor stays with the wheel. CV shaft probably came apart at the outer joint.

Should not change at all.

There is a standard tow rating formula - SAE J2807. You're right though that you run will likely run out of payload, axle capacity, GVWR or GCWR before getting a 10k pound trailer behind a half ton truck.

Tire catching on the inner fender liner?

1/2 Ton is for sure plenty suited for more than 4k. Weight was never the issue, wind was.

No, no, no... they had the little tag trailer between the car and main trailer. 55 is all it could go.

So far only YOU are recommending this, and based on YOUR recommendation ANYONE towing faster than 65 is a "clueless drunken cowboy". So, when you call someone out, you better have something to back it up. What specifically are we clueless about? "Experts", I'll need to see some credentials first. There are none. Despite all this... I RECOMMEND driving according to conditions, abilities, equipment condition and ratings.

Well I just upgrade his engine for him to the newer style, don't know why I didn't see that it was an 06.

Wouldn't hurt to pull the pressure sender and replace the screen under it too. Those sensors are known to fail and the screen under them clog too. Reasonably cheap and I would consider it a maintenance item on these engines.

Except the only example YOU provided was a legal limit and you have yet to articulate any specific data to back up your justification to label anyone towing a trailer over 65 as a irresponsible drunken cowboy. (However, I like the label and will wear it with honor) Using the map above, sure looks like there is vast majority of the country would disagree with your claimed 65 max. To be clear, there is NO universal documented limit to towing a trailer to 65 mph. Meanwhile, sorry to contributing to the thread hijack, its been fun though.

Again, by whom?

Alright I'll bite, what is YOUR trailer speed limit? And you've based it on what? We've all acknowledged that tires can fail - even "2 1/2 years old, with maybe 5k miles on them. Ambient temperature low 50's speed 60-65 PSI was correct and they weren't overloaded" Would your magic speed limit have prevented the above? Nope. So us drunk cowboys will carry on in our own safe and prudent manner while you look down your nose at us when we pass.

Since no one here knows the actual speed rating of the tires on the trailer or their brand and quality. Your condescension and holy than thou attitude is uncalled for. HOWEVER, the tires just replaced off my trailer "Ridgway" are about 2 1/2 years old, with maybe 5k miles on them. I've had two blow up now. Ambient temperature on the last one was low 70's and low 50's on the first. Speed 60-65 on the first and 70-75 on the second. PSI was correct and they weren't overloaded or over sped. Point being, these off-brand, no-brand, whatever brand trailer tires are junk. Hopefully the Goodyear Endurance are better - they sure cost more.

This is accurate, and depending on the length of the trailer will alter how much gets picked back up by the trailer with weight distribution bars engaged. Tandem axle trailers usually have an equalizer so that both axles carry the same amount of weigh at all times. Some - do not, usually ones with torsion axles. Without an equalizer the trailer must be dead level (regardless of weight distribution) for the axles to be evenly loaded. In addition, traversing steep roadway transitions, can temporarily unload one of those axles (where either the lead or tail axle's tires are off the ground) to the point where the remaining axle, including tires, springs, etc. is overloaded. Engaging weight distribution systems 'distributes' the tongue weight (I think of it as the amount the trailer jack lifts when hitching up) across "three" axles: 1. Tow vehicle front axle 2. Tow vehicle rear axle 3. Trailer axle(s) Since some of the tongue weight gets put back on the trailer when engaging weight distribution, the final weight put on both axles of the tow vehicle is less (fractionally) than without weight distribution.

Check fuses?

Well which is it? Slamming on the brakes to correct a fish tail, a new expert technique from the autobahn cruiser. Hmmm... I may be from Oklahoma but we've never had fishtail proof snow here. We all better start watching out, without the proper experience and training from your truck may also be susceptible to wild uncontrollable fishtailing Puhleeze... the ditches everywhere must be littered with these trucks. You are literally the one person this happened to... I'll give you some extra just in case the others this happened to don't use the internet - a hundred fair? Out of what millions... including every sort of lousy driver known to drive. Obviously, these trucks are the problem. No. You lost control of your truck on a washboard road.

It was a "we owe" from the dealer I bought the truck at... I think they billed $350 give or take.