Jump to content

2004 Factory DVD video output?

Supurban

By Supurban
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

Supurban Enthusiast

Supurban

Posted
Posted

I have a factory (Panasonic) DVD entertainment system. I'm considering adding a second monitor, but want to keep the existing system.

 

Has anyone hooked up additional monitors to the factory player?

If so, what wires did you tap into for the video signal?

Colors?

Where did you tap - in the overhead console?

  • 3 weeks later...
Redapple Enthusiast

Redapple

Posted
Posted

The factory setup does not have a video out, so what you will have to do is remove the system, tear it apart, and solder RCA viseo out to the following specs: Pin 5 is Video + Pin 13 is Video - Pin 14 is Shield. This is for 04 only, If I know GM, the pinouts are probably different for each year, so I won't validate this pinout for other years. These wires can be tapped into, and a RCA jcak soldered in. It is also recommended that a Video booster is installed between the player and both screens.

 

This is something that has been on my radar for months. I just haven't had the time.

 

Good Luck! :thumbs:

Bill

Supurban Enthusiast

Supurban

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Great info. I don't suppose you have pictures? Want to do the project in two steps:

1. tap into the video leads and leave the wires where I can get to them later.

2. hook up and mount the second monitor when I get yet more time.

When I get the time to take mine apart, I'll put up pictures.

Thanks for the pin outs! :thumbs:

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Supurban Enthusiast

Supurban

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, so I finally took the player down from the ceiling to take a peek inside. 3 screws and a slide to the drivers' side is all it took.

618555_28.jpg618555_29.jpg

The photo above is of the connector on a 2004 Suburban DVD player to the factory monitor.

 

To get a picture on an second monitor, connect the dark blue wire (4th from right on bottom row) to the center RCA conductor. Connect the outer conductor of the RCA to the chassis ground. There will be a slight drop in brightness to the factory screen.

 

But it works! :crackup:

 

I ran across a detailed schematic below, but it doesn't make sense based on my wiring colors. :cool:

Wiring diagram from <a href='http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/' target='_blank'>http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/</a>

yukondmax New Member

yukondmax

Posted
Posted

I wish someone could help on this one! You would think someone would have an aftermarket thingy out there by now. I too would love to have an extra visor moniter hooked up to the factory DVD.

 

Anybody help? I know they do it in the shops/ :thumbs:

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

The outputs are a wire pair inside a shielded harness. Remove them from the (OEM) monitor. One is Video "+", the other "-".

 

Just wire them as "+" center pin and the "-" as the shield. No one mentioned a problem with that. Then find a 12V video distribution amp (rather common now), for the number of monitors you will be running & run the connector to it.

 

You need to make sure it powers up and down with the accessory's selection requests.

 

Run one of the dist. amp's outputs back to the oem screen, the other(s) to your other monitor(s) respectively. It's best to terminate any unused output(s) with a 75? resistor inside an RCA plug.

 

You can keep it factory instead, by using an SUV distribution amp. The ones used for their front & rear screens.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,331 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...