Jump to content

2004 Factory DVD video output?

Supurban

By Supurban
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

Supurban Enthusiast

Supurban

Posted
Posted

I have a factory (Panasonic) DVD entertainment system. I'm considering adding a second monitor, but want to keep the existing system.

 

Has anyone hooked up additional monitors to the factory player?

If so, what wires did you tap into for the video signal?

Colors?

Where did you tap - in the overhead console?

  • 3 weeks later...
Redapple Enthusiast

Redapple

Posted
Posted

The factory setup does not have a video out, so what you will have to do is remove the system, tear it apart, and solder RCA viseo out to the following specs: Pin 5 is Video + Pin 13 is Video - Pin 14 is Shield. This is for 04 only, If I know GM, the pinouts are probably different for each year, so I won't validate this pinout for other years. These wires can be tapped into, and a RCA jcak soldered in. It is also recommended that a Video booster is installed between the player and both screens.

 

This is something that has been on my radar for months. I just haven't had the time.

 

Good Luck! :thumbs:

Bill

Supurban Enthusiast

Supurban

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Great info. I don't suppose you have pictures? Want to do the project in two steps:

1. tap into the video leads and leave the wires where I can get to them later.

2. hook up and mount the second monitor when I get yet more time.

When I get the time to take mine apart, I'll put up pictures.

Thanks for the pin outs! :thumbs:

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Supurban Enthusiast

Supurban

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, so I finally took the player down from the ceiling to take a peek inside. 3 screws and a slide to the drivers' side is all it took.

618555_28.jpg618555_29.jpg

The photo above is of the connector on a 2004 Suburban DVD player to the factory monitor.

 

To get a picture on an second monitor, connect the dark blue wire (4th from right on bottom row) to the center RCA conductor. Connect the outer conductor of the RCA to the chassis ground. There will be a slight drop in brightness to the factory screen.

 

But it works! :crackup:

 

I ran across a detailed schematic below, but it doesn't make sense based on my wiring colors. :cool:

Wiring diagram from <a href='http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/' target='_blank'>http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/</a>

yukondmax New Member

yukondmax

Posted
Posted

I wish someone could help on this one! You would think someone would have an aftermarket thingy out there by now. I too would love to have an extra visor moniter hooked up to the factory DVD.

 

Anybody help? I know they do it in the shops/ :thumbs:

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

The outputs are a wire pair inside a shielded harness. Remove them from the (OEM) monitor. One is Video "+", the other "-".

 

Just wire them as "+" center pin and the "-" as the shield. No one mentioned a problem with that. Then find a 12V video distribution amp (rather common now), for the number of monitors you will be running & run the connector to it.

 

You need to make sure it powers up and down with the accessory's selection requests.

 

Run one of the dist. amp's outputs back to the oem screen, the other(s) to your other monitor(s) respectively. It's best to terminate any unused output(s) with a 75? resistor inside an RCA plug.

 

You can keep it factory instead, by using an SUV distribution amp. The ones used for their front & rear screens.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...