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Ratings on a 98 Vortec 350


98silvz71

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Posted

What are the Hp and Torque ratings on a 98 Vortec 350? I have heard a lot but I am not for sure. I just want what the engine is rated for. I also have a hard time stopping this truck even with new brake pads. The dealer says everything is ok. Its just "normal'' Is it possible to change the booster over to the Hydro-Boost like on the newer trucks. My steering is messed up. It is like it almost slips around corners and when the truck isn't moving it doesn't turn.

Posted

> What are the Hp and Torque ratings on a 98 Vortec 350?

 

Not a clue.

 

> I also have a hard time stopping this truck even with new brake pads.

 

Rotor finish is critical. Were the rotors refinished? They should have practically a mirror finish. Also, brakes on the older trucks just weren't that impressive.

 

> Is it possible to change the booster over to the Hydro-Boost like on the newer trucks.

 

See answer 1.

 

> My steering is messed up. It is like it almost slips around corners

 

It's almost certainly a bad steering position sensor.

Posted

I also have a 98 350 vortec, the HP rating on that truck is 255HP, not sure about the torque. The brakes on mine are also the same way, the brakes on those years just plain suck!

Posted

First off I would change the EVO sensor as it sounds like it is wasted. When it goes out is give full pressure to the power steering and all times. It makes the ruck steering verry sensitive and normal road speeds. The part is around 60 dollars at GM. But if you have a car parts place that can order motormite/dorman the aftermarket part is around 29 bucks. Also try rockauto.com it is there alot cheaper.

 

You really didn't give alot of info on anything else done to the brakes. Nor was mileage given on the truck. Hydro-Boost isn't the answer to your problem, proper diagnosis is. Tell us more and lets see if we can help you.

 

What are the Hp and Torque ratings on a 98 Vortec 350?  I have heard a lot but I am not for sure.  I just want what the engine is rated for.  I also have a hard time stopping this truck even with new brake pads.  The dealer says everything is ok.  Its just "normal'' Is it possible to change the booster over to the Hydro-Boost like on the newer trucks.  My steering is messed up. It is like it almost slips around corners and when the truck isn't moving it doesn't  turn.

 

 

 

Posted

Sorry about that. The mileage on the truck is just now 118,000. The rotors were refinished by the guys down at O'Reilly Auto Parts. The pads were brand new with about 12,000 on them I have had GM take a look at the rear drums to make sure that everything is ok. They said that the drums are fine, the pads are fine, the valve is set right. I even asked them if they would set the rear brakes to take more fluid because most of the braking is coming from the front discs. And I was just wondering if Hydro-Boost could help since it pumps up the vaccum pressure for heavier loads. I am sorry if I don't know everything about every part. If you need more information just tell me and I will get it.

Posted

How is the brake pedal? Does it seem to go down to the floor? Does it feel mushy? My guess is with those miles the master cylinder is just about gone. Also if you drive alot on the highway the rear shoes may require adjustment. If everything is right with the shoes and shoes then there is only 2 other items NOT covered and they are the master cylinder and vacumn booster. I bet one or the other is junk.

 

There is no user adjustment of the proportioning valve unless you have an aftermarket one installed so if they told you otherwise I would go to another dealer.

 

 

 

Sorry about that.  The mileage on the truck is just now 118,000.  The rotors were refinished by the guys down at O'Reilly Auto Parts. The pads were brand new with about 12,000 on them  I have had GM take a look at the rear drums to make sure that everything is ok.  They said that the drums are fine, the pads are fine, the valve is set right.  I even asked them if they would set the rear brakes to take more fluid because most of the braking is coming from the front discs.  And I was just wondering if Hydro-Boost could help since it pumps up the vaccum pressure for heavier loads. I am sorry if I don't know everything about every part. If you need more information just tell me and I will get it.

 

 

 

Posted

How is the brake pedal? Does it seem to go down to the floor? Does it feel mushy? My guess is with those miles the master cylinder is just about gone. Also if you drive alot on the highway the rear shoes may require adjustment. If everything is right with the shoes and shoes then there is only 2 other items NOT covered and they are the master cylinder and vacumn booster. I bet one or the other is junk.

 

There is no user adjustment of the proportioning valve unless you have an aftermarket one installed so if they told you otherwise I would go to another dealer.

 

 

The brake pedal goes down a ways before you can feel it touch the rotor. Not to the floor but pretty close. Actually it is preetty mushy come to think of it. I have done what they told me to do to adjust the rear brakes which is shift into reverse and pump the brake pedal because the shoes are self adjusting. It didn't really help much, it seemed to fad away after just a short time. When you said something about the EVO what were you talking about? I am not familiar with all of the terms and stuff. I try my best.

Posted

Change the master cylinder. I bet it is the original. Flush the brake fluid as well. The EVO sensor is at the bottom of the steering column.

 

Actually to adjust the rear shoes you have to drive in forward and reverse depressing the brake pedal in each direction to properly adjust the rear brake shoes.

 

 

How is the brake pedal? Does it seem to go down to the floor? Does it feel mushy? My guess is with those miles the master cylinder is just about gone. Also if you drive alot on the highway the rear shoes may require adjustment. If everything is right with the shoes and shoes then there is only 2 other items NOT covered and they are the master cylinder and vacumn booster. I bet one or the other is junk.

 

There is no user adjustment of the proportioning valve unless you have an aftermarket one installed so if they told you otherwise I would go to another dealer.

 

 

The brake pedal goes down a ways before you can feel it touch the rotor. Not to the floor but pretty close. Actually it is preetty mushy come to think of it. I have done what they told me to do to adjust the rear brakes which is shift into reverse and pump the brake pedal because the shoes are self adjusting. It didn't really help much, it seemed to fad away after just a short time. When you said something about the EVO what were you talking about? I am not familiar with all of the terms and stuff. I try my best.

 

 

 

 

Posted
Change the master cylinder. I bet it is the original. Flush the brake fluid as well. The EVO sensor is at the bottom of the steering column.

 

Actually to adjust the rear shoes you have to drive in forward and reverse depressing the brake pedal in each direction to properly adjust the rear brake shoes.

 

I'll try that, it is the original. Thanks for the help with the EVO sensor. I didn't know that about the rear shoes. The guys at GM only told me to go in reverse because that is what the manual states to do. Thanks for the help Mr. Smith

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I agree with their suggestions. You really should start with changing your brake fluid. You WILL notice a big difference if it hasnt been changed for a while. I added rear disc's to my 96 Sub and at the same time I put in a Corvet (not sure what year) master cylinder. The brake feel is now much tighter. The mush is gone.

 

I think the 97-99 Vortec was 255hp 330 torque and 96 was 245hp

Posted

I'd also check the self-adjusters on the rear brakes--if they freeze up (like they do when you tow a boat and launch/retrieve in saltwater) the rear brakes will be used less and less.

Posted

Thanks for all of your suggestions. I turned the rotors again and I have about 50% of material left on the pads. The rear drums are just fine. I also found that the intake manifold gasket was bad and I think that is where the vacuum pressure went. I replaced it and the pedal is less squishy but there is still some. I will try changing the brake fluid and maybe the booster if it is still squishy. In the future I will change the brakes to SSBC 4- wheel disc brake kit.

Posted

The bad steering actually wasn't the steering sensor. I replaced it and it still was bad and then it started sqeaking in the front end. I took it to GM and they found the problem right away. The pitman and idler arms were messed up so it took about 2 hours and the steering was just fine.

Posted
Thanks for all of your suggestions.  I turned the rotors again and I have about 50% of material left on the pads.  The rear drums are just fine.  I also found that the intake manifold gasket was bad and I think that is where the vacuum pressure went. I replaced it and the pedal is less squishy but there is still some.  I will try changing the brake fluid and maybe the booster if it is still squishy.  In the future I will change the  brakes to SSBC 4- wheel disc brake kit.

 

 

 

 

 

Make sure SSB does not send you the kit with the Thunderbird rear calipers. I have had nothing but trouble with mine.

Posted

I've heard that before but I had a buddy call them and tell them and they corrected the error. Didn't they do that for you?

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