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Now granted the part I'm after is for a 2018, but still fits a 2021 Enclave. We purchased an exceptionally well cared for 2018 Enclave and the only wear item I see is the driver's lower seat cover and it's still in decent shape, I would just like to refresh it. Turns out this shale-colored lower seat cover is discontinued and none are left in the country. Is this a supply issue with GM or are they really discontinuing these items which tend to wear after some use and this would be an ideal time to have them in inventory IMO.

Another day, another 10 speed goes down

$3.90 to $4.50 depending on the brand and location of the station. 87 regular.

Guys that read Dizzy's thread know that eons ago after multiple manifold pulls to clear the CCV orifice I converted it to a PCV system with an orifice below it via the valve cover. The blow-by (sticky rings) was so bad it was impossible to keep clean and accumulated water in the oil in the winter when the moisture would freeze in the fresh air side. The PCV functioning mainly as a check valve. I carefully sized the orifice to reproduce the factory values for crankcase pressure at idle. Well...took a slug of oil to get my attention but the ring seal improvement meant the system was over drafting sucking oil up and out the breather. (V8 guys with orifice systems are nodding their heads). So today I choked it down...allot....to replicate the "just enough to hold a piece of paper on the fresh air side at idle". May still be to much but I'm working with shims at the moment. When I get it sorted I'll make a proper plate and plug. Perhaps using carburetor jets to tune it. So I guess this means it isn't my imagination. Dizzy is a pig guys so don't go expecting huge moves in equipment (your equipment) that is in much better shape. A needle valve....lord that just came to me....

I had a new engine installed with under 5,000 miles. It shut off coming around a residential street corner and wouldn't restart. Dealer indicated it seized. New one has been fine since with 10,000 miles on the replaced engine. Annoying but I was given a loaner for the 5 weeks it was down. I won't go with the 6.2l gasser so it's 3.0l again. I love the economy and it tows my enclosed car trailer just fine.

Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath. Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath. Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement. Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too... Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good. Pop the hood and give a listen. lol Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.

HD uses the 6.6 gas. Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal. 1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR. If more than that, it is considered excessive. They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J. Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi). Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.

I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil. Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer? Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]

We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.

That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses. Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally ) 57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine.

Kind of off topic, wife drives a 2023 Yukon Denali with the 3.0, been a great rig so far, incredible fuel economy for a truck that big and heavy. Coming up on 50000 trouble free miles.

I`m gonna try some of this in my 2000 LM7 that has had the famous piston slap since 17,000 miles or so. I have used Mopar combustion chamber cleaner down the spark plug holes a few times in the past. Corrects the problem for a few months or so. Then returns. GM top engine cleaner has been used also. No good results from this. This LM7 never used oil. Even running the piss out of it. Course, I`m gonna use this in my 2025 L84 while it`s still clean. It`s got 13,000 miles. Used Chevron fuel system cleaner [2 bottles in tank] a tank or 2 ago.

Or put you in a lawn chair on the curb, with a free sign.

Still $4.50 85 oct.

B07 has a lot to learn. New kid on the block. You sound like a still wet behinnd the ears youngster by the way you respond, calling out someone and you know nothing about him. Look around this forum at Grumpy Bear input before you spout off.

Is it what you were talking about ? https://www.lislecorp.com/videos/lubrication--tire/19912-multi-application-oil-funnel-14-pc

Good thing my wife doesn't frequent my automotive forums, she might get the idea of strapping me to a handtruck and leaving me curbside for the pickers day before garbage pickup!

Okay boys and girls I put a bottle of this in Dizzy the oil burning guineapig after a tank between the coil and plug service of the #3 hole and near the end of the first R&P 5W30 attempt. As a note I did a two R&P oil changes back in October of 2025 with little effect. Granted they were 1K mile a shot oil changes so.... Then followed by fourteen 1K mile changes of Mobil 1 Euro 5W30 FS. Also ineffective. Anyone who has followed the adventures of Dizzy may remember that to put the oil on the full mark of the published nominal 5 quart change I withhold about a cup of oil. That over the last 50K miles the P0420 light has been a frequent flyer, sometimes three or four a day. And that even on 93 octane fuel she registers some KR even in moderate conditions on favorable days on slight inclines. Lastly when giving her a kick in the pants, something done about once a week, she looks like a diesel with the pump turned up. After one bottle and over the last 500 miles of a 3K mile OCI, of the first oil change I dropped the nastiest looking oil ever in her history. That's saying something as you will recall I have used AutoRx, HP EC30/40 and a few other harsh solvents in her before including the GM top soak twice. This was syrup. Black stinky, inky syrup but the filter wasn't all that bad. On the second fill I had to use the entire 5 quarts to reach the full mark. That was unexpected! The ignition KR is completely gone! Even at 99% engine load. MAP is much lower. Level road is now 9.8 instead of 12.5. Fuel economy is remarkably higher and for the first time since her earliest days she will spin to 6500, more than a thousand higher with out laying down dead. Yes, the coil and plug had something to do with that but remember the first 2500 miles after that repair on the first change it was same ole same ole Dizzy. Seems we have top rings that are somewhat functional again. P0420 code only comes on now if run in town for more than an hour of stop and go. On the open road it goes weeks without a incident. Perhaps it is cleaning the cat on the pass through? Fuel Trims have improved as well. Nothing not to like. To early to say about oil economy but the changes to date in the operational aspect is remarkable. I can't think of a worse case than Dizzy.... It's already paid for itself in a few tanks of fuel with the mpg improvement. @OnTheReel, I'd say if the Jeep didn't respond perhaps there wasn't an issue to respond to. I've run the Red Line SI-1, AMSOIL fuel cleaner, GUMOUT and Techron all in this SUV without any such results. Color me impressed. I'll be running out my supplies of the list mentioned and moving on to the Valvoline R&P Fuel System Cleaner.

Hey Chuck !!Thanks for the all the info I'm an old fart and I have everything I need for the oil change at home,minus flexibility .... and I’ve been doing my own oil changes for 40 years. I just didn’t want to end up without a crush washer or with the wrong one in my stash and have to walk to the auto parts store, lol. I climbed under the truck to check the location, and man, it’s going to be the easiest oil change and filter swap in the last 40 years—right up there with my 2014 Mitsubishi Outlander 2.4. No mess, nothing to drip on—just perfect. I’ve got one more free oil change to use, and then that’s it with the dealership!

I think this subforum was created for the new generation pickup trucks (2027-) with the 3.0 but I don't think it's a big deal either way. There are probably 2027 model-year specific changes for the SUV's too. I was just curious if you had issues with your 2025 3.0. I'm still under 10k miles on mine and fingers crossed I don't have thrust bearing issues. I'm guessing not, since you're willing to buy another one! It's a good engine minus one or two manufacturing whoopsies.

Wife has enough metal in her she hides from the scrapper.

Djannoyed was a one hit wonder. Posted and disappeared.

I have pictures of the before and after x-rays for my past three joint replacements. Your analogy is a good one as I have some modern, high tech parts hidden behind old, body panels!

I thought my stock Ranchos were fine most of the time. I installed 5100s because of all the conjecture online, and honestly I wish I had left the Ranchos on, only because I don't tow and haul very often. Towing or hauling, the 5100s are much more compliant. However, riding empty, the Ranchos were better.

Wiring needs to be resolved first. Smoke will just leak out the vent unless it can be closed (after fixing the circuit fault).