All Activity

Yea that's pretty normal to be off a few degrees. Usually 2-4 degrees from say a weather app or thermometer.

I just replaced the ambient air temperature sensor. Easy as pie. I simply had to remove about 10-12 clips on the plastic cover over the radiator and remove two T-10 torx screws on the hood release lever to liberate the cover (Amazingly, none of the clips broke. All came out and went back in with zero problems). Once the cover was removed, the temp sensor is easily accessible. The sensor cable snakes through a few guides and can be pulled out for even easier access to the sensor. I was able to work the sensor out of the mounting hole. There is a red sliding catch on the plug that must be pulled back to disconnect the cable. The plug was quite tight. I had to use a screwdriver to pry it out. I plugged in the new sensor ($6.45 from RockAuto), snapped it into the mounting hole and re-snaked the cable. I put the radiator cover back on and reattached the lever arm to the hood release. All done! I started up my Suburban. The temperature read 82 °F. Other thermometers at my house read 80 °F. Close enough. It might be reading high as my vehicle was sitting in the sun.

Remember when you were 50 and they called you Old Man?

That one looks decent for the price BUT..I want something that also supports OBDI/1.5. A lot of the prosumer-grade scanners don't have legacy support in order to keep costs low. I believe the Autel does if you go higher end with them. For fun, I reached out to a local Snap-On rep because I was interested in the 2600. $1895 MSRP, says he can do $1595. That's still a lot, but then again, that's not a horrible discount for just asking out of the blue. Could probably do better if I was a regular buying off his truck, but I'm not. Not sure if I mentioned but I didn't realize with USED scanners from Snap On that you need to make sure a) the serial number isn't flagged as stolen. On the newer ones, SnapOn can remotely disable the device if it's flagged in their system. And, customer service can tell you if it is, if you're thinking about buying used. B) Make sure it's paid off. If the seller still owes money to the truck or if they financed through Snap On, the device can be remotely disabled until the balance is paid. It's less clear if SnapOn will tell you if a balance is still owed; I didn't make it that far with the used model I was considering. I did read that SnapOn has no way of tracking any "truck financing" deals between the SnapOn rep and buyer, only if they financed through corporate. So there's that extra caution needed. Still waffling on whether I go with a ~$500ish Autel/TopDon or spend bigger money. The value seems to be in the prosumer brands. I'm not giving them enough credit TBH, actual production repair shops use them daily BUT I'm still allergic to certain kinds of underdog products trying to unseat American companies with solid reputations. SnapOn's scanner isn't wholly made in the US, but it is assembled here and they have US support and probably the most proven/ robust legacy support. Something to think about. Value, or principles? There's a $1k difference.

I'm thankful to live where we don't have extreme weather. We might all be blown to smithereens when Mt. Rainier goes, but 80 is warm enough in the summer and I can generally count the number of hard freezes in the winter on one hand. The cars here don't rust and they don't get sun-baked, either. We have finished off many of our average 52 days of "clear/sunny" weather, though. Sunsets are coming earlier, the nights are a little cooler. It's right around the first week of September when we get our first warning that summer is coming to a close with overcast skies and the start of "hoodie weather" temperatures during the cooler parts of the day. By October, it's usually time to ditch the shorts. By November, it's mostly raining.

My point was: If what you are doing works, keep doing it: But, I will have a talk with AI to make sure their info is more accurate going forward.

Hello There I have a brand-new engine control module (ECM/PCM) for the Duramax 6.6 liter diesel engine. GM E41 ECM on 2017–2023 6.6L Duramax L5P trucks Bought it for a project last year and end selling the truck, so i never get to use this ECM LP5/E41 I paid $1499 willing to sell it for $1200 OBO

@OnTheReel , What oil was used for this sample?

True Dat!

One of our children turns 50 tomorrow. When the celebrant reaching such a milestone is one of your own, any teasing of the high number will surely backfire!

Under 3.30 in most places in Gulfport. Near my favorite casino. Wish me luck.

Rain, humidity, and insects. That is all we have lately.

Windshield been replaced lately? I have a 2015 Civic that had this issue and it was the windshield replacement. Hope ya get it figured out.....Pretty truck

I have no sunroof, so I can rule out a clogged sunroof drain hose. I've driven the truck now 4 days straight, running the A/C on each drive, and I saw nothing on the floor mat. I guess I'll just keep an eye on it for now and wait and see.

Just paid $3.79 in Wisconsin. Diesel is $4.95

$3.99 everywhere in MN and WI. Diesel well over $5.00 now.

Should probably post this here too. This tells you what engines you can get with each trim. Certain engines again won't be available depending on trim. Like no 6.6 V8 in the Trail Boss for example. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2026/08/heres-2027-chevy-silverado-engine-availability-by-trim-level/

Hello, wondering if anyone can help me with this little problem. I was trying to order the Upfitter Switch that has TC, Cargo Light, Blank, Aux 1-4.... Order was cancelled due to "not having it". The only available option to me now is the Upfitter Switch that has all these options, but in the blank space there is "Exhaust Braking". My truck is a gasser, so this is of no use to me. I need to find where Pin 4 and Pin 5 of the X2 connector run to (i.e X61A - X1 - Pins X & Y), and manipulate that somehow to get my desired outcome. Has anyone done this? Would there be any implications with me just doing nothing with it and installing it as is and never using it? I have gathered that it is "momentary" - so there are some considerations there. Please help!

If it is oil and not fuel pooling in there, it almost has to be a head problem. Crack, or loose guide. Those heads are not known for problems, but...

In the motorhome world, people refer to tire manufacturer's pressure-weight charts to determine a good PSI for their motorhome tires. What they do is get axle weights for the vehicle at a CAT scale or other scale. Drive on, drive off, the scale spits out a ticket with the weight over each axle. Then, you know the approximate weight per tire on that axle. Then, you refer to the pressure/weight chart published by the manufacturer and set the tire PSI accordingly. Of course, you will want to adjust (and know how much to adjust) when you decide to carry more weight. For everyday unloaded ride, bringing down the PSI within a safe range that still adequately supports the vehicle's weight relative to the construction of the tire can really help with ride quality and under/over-inflated wear issues. I don't see why it would be any different for a pickup. The key is the tire needs to be rated to support the load safely at the PSI you've selected.

No, no oil came running out of it or anything like that

No oil in intake when you took it off?

Bi-directional scanner? How about a Thinkcar TK689? Bluetooth, and free updates for life...

You SHOULD be. IF you underinflate, you can compromise the truck's handling and stopping. Its an 8400lbs truck. LOTS of weight on the front end empty. Ideally you'll want 55-60psi all the way around. Tire light. GM dealers won't help. LIABILITIES. Others have mentioned tools that exist. That will be your only route.

No.