Leaderboard

Quicky from today on another job.

Hi Guys, 1st time poster, been lurking around for awhile but never had anything useful to contribute. Not sure how useful this is or if it may have already been done but if not here goes. Well I really hated the way you have to go in the cab to turn on your cargo light in the back and after a little research I was able to come up with a really simple inexpensive way to add a switch for the cargo light in your truck bed. Cargo Light Switch.pdf When I took my multi function switch apart I realized it was only a momentary switch that sends a ground signal to the BCM to turn the lights on and off. I then was able to find the correct wires to tap thanks to the gmuppfitter site. I prefabbed the switch with about a 15' wiring harness (26 gauge wire was all I used) and encased it in a small 1/4" wire loon. Then I popped out the plastic plug near the back f the bed on the drivers side and mounted switch in the plastic plug. I then pulled the wire thru the hole and popped the plastic plug back in place. Then I removed the left rear taillight and was able to reach over and grab the harness pull it back to the light and to tie it off to the existing wire harness. I did this all the way to the front of the truck. I came in to the cab thru the large grommet by the parking brake. ran it over to the BCM. Trimmed my wires and tapped the signal and ground wire for the cargo lights. Now I have a switch in the Pickup bed for less than $20 and a couple of hours of my Saturday. The switch actually works like a 3 way as I can now turn it on in the back and then off in the front or vice versa. Because I am just sending the BCM a signal from another source the light retains all the original functions like the battery saver and it turns off when you put it in forward. I have a cover on my truck bed so I just used a Radio Shack switch but if you do not have a cover or cap you may want to use a Marine grade switch. Cargo Light Switch.pdf Cargo Light Switch.pdf Cargo Light Switch.pdf

Anzo headlights.. Ordered some Putco bulbs to whiten the color. The fogs are vleds 5000k.

Picked mine up on Thursday. Put over 400 miles on it already. Quite a truck, even got a compliment from a random passer by in NYC! Here's the first time in the day light I could get both vehicles together. Both a little dirty but will do. I've had the CTS-V since '04. It was my daily for 7 years and has 150,000 miles on it. It is Stealth Gray and was the inspiration for the truck's color.

Well I thought I would put up in little build sheet what I've done. I've had the truck for 2 months today. What I've done for the truck so far. Driver side assist handle Console Organizer DU-HA underseat storage WeatherTech liners & side window deflectors Shorty antenna 5" Billet bowTie emblem 35% tint on the driver and passenger side doors 5% Front windshield strip AVS bug guard Tuff-Bar 3" bull bar K&N 33-2129 air filter Husky 70" low-profile tool box Magnaflow 11229 14" muffler 3" stainless steel pipe to a RedTail tip with Rez an flapper delete. So far 5645mi and no problems Waiting for fall to put tires/wheels on with the RC 2.5 kit on. Right before I drove it off the lot.

Here's some more pics of mine I took this morning.

Finished my '14 up this weekend.. 7-9" Mcgaughy's lift.. 20x12 -44 offset Fuel Octane 35x12.5x20 Toyo Open Country MT Amp Research Step bars.. Fits into my 80" garage by about 1"!!!

I want to install a quick connect so I can unhook the camera from the tailgate and connect a different camera (On the back of my camper) once I'm hitched up. I found the schematics, I just need to do a little testing of the pinouts. It will be interesting to see what a different camera looks like on the same display.

Leaving for vacation..... Sent from my crappy iPhone5S using Tapatalk

Great looking truck and nice V. I had an '05 for a couple years, then sold it to my dad. Fun car.

I'm not planning on sending out 100 one at a time... I'm going to send ~20 of them to four different people then post who I sent them to. If they want to keep all 20 for themselves I'm not stopping them. However the hope is that they would just take out a few then send the rest to others. I'm out like $5 if the first four are all selfish, I've got far more value than that out of the forums though. If it works though maybe 30 people get diodes for the cost of a stamp and envelope.

Old red!!

Thanks for all the advice guys. After some research on here and your comments I'm in agreement to not take it in. Thanks again! Hoping to put another 100,000 on it!!

PLEASE do not take your vehicle to the "stealership" for this problem, as said above, they will take your money, and then tell you it is "normal" for the LS engines. I have piston slap in Sara (2001 Z28 40k original miles), and I have had it in my 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe (4.8L 107K original miles), and I have it in my 2013 Yukon Denali (23k original miles). The "ticking" goes away in the first few minuets, and also keep in mind that the fuel injectors will tick when the engine is operating. Hell, Sara sounds like a sewing machine when I first start her up.

The cold start "tick" (piston slap) has been the norm with these engines forever. There is nothing unusual about it and it will not hurt anything. Any dealership will tell you the same after charging a crazy amount of money. OP, everything is fine, you have nothing to worry about.

Moving out... ..and get a nice welcome by my neighbors at my new place. so long j-ten-ner

Here you go:

Couple of months late but here they are..... 2014 Denali 6.2L Mods Completed: 22" SEY Wheels with Bridgestone Duller AT's 3M Stoneguard on Bumper, Hood, Fenders, A-Pillars and Roof. Borla GM Performance Exhaust Hardwired Escort 9500ix HID Canada 4300K HID Kit WeatherTech Front and Back 18% Tint to Drivers, Passenger and Sunroof. Fold-a-Cover G4 Elite with Personal Caddy Rhinoliner Spray in Liner Removed Factory Boards To Be Installed: 25W HID Fog Lights Power Tailgate Lock.

2014 Sierra with 2.5" rough country leveling kit on 20x10 wheels and 295/55/20 nitto trail grapplers. It had a lot of rub at full wheel lock which I fixed by hammering in inner fender where plastic fender trim bolts into inner fender wheel well. Lots of people cut inner wheel well and grind off inner sheet metal to clear tires when turning. Hammer worked for me and cleared the tires. You can't even tell anything was modified. Looks completely stock unlike others who have trimmed there wheel wells on previous model to fit tires. If anyone is looking to do a 20x10 wheel go with 5" backspacing. I went with the 4.75" backspacing since thats the only backspacing they had available in the Fuel Maverick 2-Piece wheels which I like a lot more than there 1 piece wheels. The 2piece wheel comes in a nice gloss black finish while the one piece wheels come in flat black and looks more like an undercoating finish which i didn't like. A 295/55/20 might work on a 20x10 wheel with 5" backspacing with slight modifications with a hammer like i did. If none/or very slight modifications want to be done to clear the 20x10 wheel with a 5" backspacing go with a 285/55/20 tire. Just my suggestion to anyone wanting to do 20x10. I will post more pics of where I hammered to clear tires and do a video to post on youtube.

I leveled the front with a 3" kit from CCm Offroad (The kit I used fit 2007-2014), I also have air bags in the back I tow a trailer and didn't want the back to sag. the tires are cooper neon ltz 305/55r20 I also painted the center caps of the rims to match the rims. De badges and tinted the windows.