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Its a shame the updated for 2005 version never hit the market as they shrunk the axle width out back to make it fit with a standard sided box instead of the 1/2 dually flares. Of course I can't find the picture right now, but it was a red crew cab short bed behind a fence with the rear wheels turned and everything. The price supposedly was cut as well. The Silverado EV/Sierra EV/Hummer EV 4 wheel steering works great though. And is the same principle as the old Q-steer, just modernized. Less complex since its IRS out back for suspension, so its like designing the front but for the rear, instead of a rack mounted to a diff cover of a Dana 60 like Q-steer used.

GM got the govt. money in 2008, and repayed in 2010. That was 16 years ago. Irrelevant to the current situation. The recent quality issues sort of mirrors Boeing. GM wasn't watching their suppliers as heavily as they should, the suppliers were letting product through that was bad. Cranks, lifters, rods, etc. Even the telematics module issue right now with them bricking on 2024-2025 SUVs. Lax in monitoring the supply chain during COVID, but an urgency to crank product out. Things were sacrificed to get product on the ground.

212k miles on shelf oils. 2003 LM7 5.3 I bought a couple weeks ago. I would consider this a clean, well maintained engine and do have the records. Still some room for improvement. No “sludge” per se but a little dirty for sure. To keep clean just takes better products than they used. Either way, bores look great, nice cross hatching. Cam shows almost no wear. These pre-DI and pre-AFM engines are treats. But as Grumpy says, we are past this point. To keep a newer DI, low tension ring engine even just in this “average” state at 200k takes some care. It’s not 2003 anymore.

Update (see below for my original post) - Alright so the pressure switch and low freon fix both helped the issue, but very quickly the AC started the delay issue again. Ugh. So I took the truck to a HD truck repair place about 5min from me, these guys are awesome, all they work on is HD trucks so I trust them more than the dealer. NOTE - Already did the pressure sensor and found the low freon issue and added freon before this. Day 1 - diag'd as a bad control assembly (dash knobs), they said it's common and they do those often. $800 qoute, 2-3 hours should be back up and running quick, part took 3 days to arrive. Day 4 - These guys actually tested the truck out in the heat, I don't mind the extra testing, that way they actually figure it out. Well low and behold, now it's the expansion valve, ok cool, they give me discount and said it will be ready pretty quick, but of course they test it in the heat hard before letting me pickup the truck. Qoute is now $1100. ($300 more for the expansion valve isn't bad) Day 6 - Nope, bad news again, issue is still there. But good news, is an electrical issue with the compressor. Compressor can get the vent temps to 42f no problem, but at idle or cold start it quits. Now they are doing the compressor. I was pretty sure based on what I've read on forums and FB that the compressor had some issues in these trucks and the new versions fixed this. Day 8 - Finally fixed, total cost for everything was now $1888, they ate a ton of the labor thankfully. Honestly cheaper than I had thought, I thought it would be just the compressor and I expected $2000ish. Original post below So my truck had low freon from factory, easy fix myself, but I had this really weird delay when starting the truck that started right after that, the AC would blow hot for 3-10min every time, then go cold BUT stay cold as long as it stayed running. No codes, nothing. GMC couldn't figure it out, and just said replace the compressor but I found a post on FB were a guy said both of his GMCs AC died at 50k miles and the GMC dealer replaced a "sensor". Huh, ok, that sounds easy, now the pressure sensor for these trucks is right by the compressor, not easy to get to(or even find at all!), but also still a 5min job. The part is hard to find, my dealer said is was not even available, however Rock Auto had them HERE for $26 bucks shipped. Its a 5min job, but you must do a full reset of the AC system, pull the battery for 3 min and its good to go. I did a complete video guide but I won't link it so as not to break any rules here.

Fordow is the facility you're talking about, it existed before 2018, and Iran used to allow the IAEA to monitor its activities until we violated our agreement with Iran. The JCPOA was torn up in 2018 by DD and we've had problems ever since. You'd think we'd be able to at least achieve as much as the JCPOA afforded global nuclear stability by going to war for the last 90 days but we don't even have that AND us pump gas and diesels are at their highest prices ever. $40 Billion on the taxpayer dime and counting, and not a yellow rock to show for it.

I thought you could connect the dots. I try to spell it out slowly. On second thought I’m not going to waste my time. How Is. That?

It’s wound be easy to end with complete destruction. A pause is to save lives. And to convince people who look for anything negative. That everything was tried. Of course we can continue to do it the old way and take our chances that they wouldn’t completely destroy the world because we aren’t fit to live according to their teachings. I choose patience pay a little more for gas. And then send them back to the Stone Age. Because that’s they want to do to us. Just in case you haven’t been listening.

It's a literal shame many of these colors just cant be ordered out right. So many are better then what is actually offered today, the paint color selection is piss poor at best these days with GM trucks. Unripened Green Metallic Dark Torador Red

Only epic failure is you and your party's ability to comprehend GOOD policies. Kamala would rather have us nuked by Iran some summer instead of getting her feelings hurt by people mad over high gas prices. But, when that party is in power, nobody seems to mind high fuel costs? Funny how that works. We endured 8 years of obama and 4 years of biden. It's a wonder America is still standing after all that.

I was thinking about doing both. After I take the tbi apart I will clean and look things over. I am still undecided on redoing the fuel regulator. Normally I would just replace everything. Now I just want my truck back and running.

Any speed above 8mph it can be active if all of the other operational parameters are met. I bolded some key ones below on the enabled and inhibited reasons from the description and operation of DFM. The conditions listed below determine when cylinder deactivation is enabled. Engine coolant temperature is between 40−126°C (100−264°F) Engine has been running for greater than 20 s Engine oil pressure is between 187−585 kPa (27−84 psi) Engine oil temperature is between 20−128°C (68−262°F) Engine speed is between 700 and 2675 rpm Ignition voltage is greater than 11 V Transmission is not in, neutral, park, first, second, or reverse gear Vehicle is not in heater performance mode Vehicle is not in tip in bump acceleration mode Vehicle is not in oil aeration mode Vehicle is not in low gear ranges Vehicle speed is greater than 13 kph (8 mph) The conditions listed below may be reasons for inhibiting deactivation: Accelerator pedal out of range or rate of pedal application too fast Catalytic converter over temperature protection is active Cylinder deactivation solenoid driver circuit faults Decel fuel cutoff is active Enabling criteria not met Engine oil pressure and temperature out of range Engine speed out of range Maximum cylinder deactivation time exceeded Piston protection is active, knock detected Reduced engine power is active Torque management is active Transmission gear incorrect or shift in progress Vehicle speed out of range

This needed its own reply. First and foremost,; and as Dad would say, "You ain't never had, don't have now and never will have a dog as good as that dog". Pepper isn't for sale so on it's face the question is moot. That put to bed.... The value of a thing is not the same thing as it's cost which is a concept most find mind numbing to digest. So lets be specific. As few would see the "value" of Pepper the fetch price would be no different than that of a truck "Maintained by Standard" but that isn't the same thing as Peppers VALUE verse that maintained by "The Standard". They are worlds apart in that regard. Dad used to repair anything with a motor in the garage at home and sometimes a customer would forfeit the machine to cover the repair, in which case dad sold it. (Mechanics lean). OR he would use the machine and others like it as parts to complete yet another unit. So....he had a few mowers displayed in the front yard one day with their prices on cardboard and a guy stops by wanting to know what the 'Bottom Dollar" was on a mower dad had posted at $25. This mower was a steel deck 18 or 20 inch unit with a solid but refurbished motor so dad said, "Price is what the price is". Guy says, "I'll give ya $5 for it". Without a thought dad took an eight pound sledge to the machine decimating it in one stroke. Pulled out a second, which was half the machine and said, "This one is $100". (Dad had about $10 in it.) Guy opens the wallet and peels off five twenties. Thing was, everyone within a hundred miles of the shop knew his work and knew his cast off's were twice the machine of most anything on any lot anywhere. They also knew if it didn't sell, he'd use it until he died and never bat an eye, bury it in the back yard or set fire to it than give it away. Pepper is an 11 year old truck with 200K on the clock with less rust than a new one and no dents. Uses no oil. Gets good mileage and most of it looks new even today. Profound mechanical shape otherwise which has cost me to date near nothing in $$$$. Just attention to detail and preventative maintenance and not drive it like I stole it. To a dealer its worth book. To a buyer who doesn't know her or I, it's worth high book. To a buyer who knows me they know the bank won't lend them that kind of money on a truck that old with that many miles. BUT to me...I have a FREE NEW (like) truck that I'll drive yet another decade or two IF God is willing and I live that long. I bought her for $17K and I've already saved full the $40K replacement cost of a new replacement and spent next to nothing to get her there. Those extra oil changes are CHEAP compared to the new truck I didn't buy. I'll save that much again on the third one I don't buy. The insurance $$$$ I save and the finance cost will pay her repairs for another decade. Outside normal maintenance I spent under $100 on that truck. Why? Cause I do all the dumb stuff that 'Makes it so Number One".

Just a follow up to close this out. I ended up having dealer do the TSB and went ahead with a fluid/filter change as well. Always like to do the first one early anyway. Dealer had no problem doing the TSB - (After I showed them a printout and a little discussion with the advisor.) Ordered the parts ahead of time so they would be ready for the appointment. Looks like the work went well, new valve has the '70'. It was the 85547828 part number. Temp looks like it is running 25-30 degrees cooler running around empty, 150-155 ish vs 180 ish. Haven't towed yet to see if it runs cooler under load as well. Happy with all that even though appointment was a nightmare. Appointment to drop off on Tues. Dropped off at 0715. Called at 1600 to check as my ride needed to leave. Hadn't been looked at yet. "Hopefully in the morning". Got a call about 1400 Wed, "You are next in line, but I didn't realize it was a Duramax when we checked it in." ?????Convinced advisor it was gas and they could proceed.???? Still didn't make the cut to get worked on Wed. Finally at lunch time Thurs the work was completed. And they wonder why I don't let them do oil changes, etc. Ridiculous! Happens I was working at home this week and I wanted this work complete before leaving on a camping trip Fri. Still, probably won't be darkening their service door again.

at least on ford f250 you can turn it off- cant on yukon

Normal for towing.