kstruckcountry

For the first time ever, my truck threw an actual misfire today (P0300) as well as p0050 & 59. I will have to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and check, but I am betting the fuel pump is giving up the ghost after 215,xxx miles. I guess the O2 sensor just decided this was its time as well. I think I have done 2 O2 sensors so far; it's impressive to me that 2 made it over 200k. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I went with a TruTrac in my 2006 about 72,000 miles ago and I am happy with it so far. With the G80, I would often break a tire loose, then the other side would bang in and break loose as well. That doesn't happen with the TruTrac, it is a lot better on pavement in my opinion. I don't do any super off camber off roading so lifting a tire is not a concern for me. In mud, you can generally drive how you want and it will work, same with snow. On snow some RPMs seem to help it out. Again, it is smooth, you won't really feel it like the G80. I didn't need a new diff, but I needed a new carrier bearing so I figured it made sense to do it all. They were also running a $50 rebate on the diff at the time. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Engine swap. Put a 25hp Kohler on the Gravely zero turn I picked up. I need to lengthen a couple ground cables and figure out the exhaust and it will be ready to mow. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Got analysis back on my 2006. All good and recommended to run 11-12,000 on next change. That will get me to 226,000 if I run a full 12,000 mile interval. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I have been using AMSOIL for only about 73,000 miles. Before that, I ran Mobil 1 for about 60k. No issues with either, other than the typical seeping seals and gaskets of a 200k+ mile engine. It doesn't leak enough to drip or "use" oil. I have seen good results on oil analysis with AMSOIL, so I am pretty comfortable running it over 10,000 miles on a change. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Changed 2006 Silverado, 214,000 on the clock, 10,000 on the oil. Refilled with AMSOIL XL. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

You will get best results if you wire wheel. Easiest way is to pull off the bed, wash, wire wheel, and then paint. Pulling the bed makes access easier and the rear of the frame will likely need the most attention anyway. POR15 is awesome stuff.

The only rear ends worth considering swapping in would be half ton, so they will all be the same width. But do have to check the ratio, as well as change the brake proportioning valve if I remember right. Like I said, not worth it, drums work fine.

Looks like the keys might be cranked up a hair. An alignment shop can tell you exactly how much.

Take a look at the torsion bar keys. Do you have a picture looking at the front a-arms and driveshafts?

Unless you have four wheel drive engaged when this is occurring, it is unrelated. Regearing transfer cases is not something you do. If you are hearing whine, on deceleration only, there is a chance that your rear axle carrier bearing is worn out.

1. Converting rear to disc is doable, but the easiest way is to find a newer rear axle with discs and swap it in. But mostly not worth it. I got 144,000 miles out of my factory drum brake shoes. 2. The factory radio isn't great and doesn't allow for decent EQ or anything. I went with a Kenwood DDX series head unit; it has L/R output as well as sub connection, Bluetooth, USB, aux, DVD, camera connections, etc. Went with an adapter harness from Crutchfield and it was plug and play. You will not regret ditching the factory radio. 3. I have Bilstein 5100s front and rear, approx 112,000 miles on them and I like them. Many have 4600's and really like them. There are a lot of good shocks out there. I would check alignment as well, that said, I have had it checked twice on my 2006 and it hasn't needed any adjustments, which is impressive.

When I had a tree taken down, they used an MS170 for all the limbing. Pretty impressive to see that little saw used in a commercial environment and holding up well. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

200,000 mile bump, actually about to roll over 201k. Trusty rusty is holding together still, no major issues to report. I am now on my 2nd set of Cooper ATW's, and I have not had a flat since switching to 10-ply tires; over 100,000 miles since my last flat. I am on my 3rd 4wd encoder motor change, and now have a spare 4wd motor just in case. Need to rebuild the old one and see how much water is in it.

Sheet metal screws will do the trick. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk