kstruckcountry

My original alternator made it 193,000. Still charged, but was making some serious noise. I was pretty impressed. I have started checking pulleys every oil change. It's cheap insurance. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Regear, and tune for gearing change and performance. You will need to tune for and run 91 octane for the best results. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I might, if I had a new one. The realization that it'll rust from the inside out on all the seam and spot welds might hamper my enthusiasm, though. We had sloppy snow here today. I didn't get stuck, but I definitely need to get my 4x4 functional again. Discount Tire is having a decent sale on tires, so it might be time for a new set, as I'm currently at 46,000 on a set rated for 45. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I got my windshield replaced at the GMC dealer, the original finally cracked. The owner of the dealer was there when I picked it up, he said "a cracked windshield, time to trade up!" I told him that I was only at 185k. "Definitely time to trade up!" Guess he thinks that's all the longer they last, haha. Windshield was $280, which I didn't think was too bad. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The newer (2007+) 3/4 ton + trucks will have a 6-speed. It's no Allison but it seems to be pretty robust. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

My 2006 usually comes up at the 8 to 9 thousand mark, which coincides pretty well with synthetic. I run AMSOIL XL for 10k and last oil change's analysis suggested moving up to 12k. Guess I'll try that on the next change. I don't think I could go back to going less than 10k, it's really nice. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Larger diameter tires give you an effectively lower final drive. It has no effect on the engine other than that the engine has less mechanical advantage to get the truck moving, and is turning slower for a given groundspeed, provided it's in the same gear. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Finally have seen the new Rams and Chevys in person. I like the looks of my rusty 2006 better, I guess I'm keeping it. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Tune would help a little. Supercharger if you want a real difference. Otherwise, putting your foot down harder is the cheapest power gain you'll get. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You can glue it back up, or just forget about it. I chose the latter. Could also replace it, but that'd be expensive. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

They ATPs were my previous set. They made over 55,000 miles. You will be happy with either tire, IMO. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I would not hesitate to go with the Cooper AT3. However, I have Cooper ATWs, and they are more similar to the Falkens in terms of snow and wet performance. Mine have 44,000 miles on them and will probably exceed the 45,000 mile life expectancy by a ways. Really happy with them. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I made the mistake of having the beads removed and wheels conventionally balanced to fix a shake. I since discovered it is a worn out CV shaft causing the vibration. My next set of tires, I'll go with beads and stick with them. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

If you aren't attached to using the plastic center caps with your steel wheels, the existing lug nuts should work just fine.

I ran my Cooper ATWs for a hair over 2000 miles before even putting the balancing beads in, so that much seems extreme to me I guess, haha. The main reason I had the weights falling off was the tire machine nudging them to patch flats back when I had 4 ply tires. Knock on wood, but no flats in over 80,000 miles since switching to 10 ply. I still prefer the stick on weights or balancing beads, though.