You will get best results if you wire wheel. Easiest way is to pull off the bed, wash, wire wheel, and then paint. Pulling the bed makes access easier and the rear of the frame will likely need the most attention anyway. POR15 is awesome stuff.
The only rear ends worth considering swapping in would be half ton, so they will all be the same width. But do have to check the ratio, as well as change the brake proportioning valve if I remember right. Like I said, not worth it, drums work fine.
Looks like the keys might be cranked up a hair. An alignment shop can tell you exactly how much.
Take a look at the torsion bar keys. Do you have a picture looking at the front a-arms and driveshafts?
Unless you have four wheel drive engaged when this is occurring, it is unrelated. Regearing transfer cases is not something you do. If you are hearing whine, on deceleration only, there is a chance that your rear axle carrier bearing is worn out.
1. Converting rear to disc is doable, but the easiest way is to find a newer rear axle with discs and swap it in. But mostly not worth it. I got 144,000 miles out of my factory drum brake shoes. 2. The factory radio isn't great and doesn't allow for decent EQ or anything. I went with a Kenwood DDX series head unit; it has L/R output as well as sub connection, Bluetooth, USB, aux, DVD, camera connections, etc. Went with an adapter harness from Crutchfield and it was plug and play. You will not regret ditching the factory radio. 3. I have Bilstein 5100s front and rear, approx 112,000 miles on them and I like them. Many have 4600's and really like them. There are a lot of good shocks out there. I would check alignment as well, that said, I have had it checked twice on my 2006 and it hasn't needed any adjustments, which is impressive.
When I had a tree taken down, they used an MS170 for all the limbing. Pretty impressive to see that little saw used in a commercial environment and holding up well. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
200,000 mile bump, actually about to roll over 201k. Trusty rusty is holding together still, no major issues to report. I am now on my 2nd set of Cooper ATW's, and I have not had a flat since switching to 10-ply tires; over 100,000 miles since my last flat. I am on my 3rd 4wd encoder motor change, and now have a spare 4wd motor just in case. Need to rebuild the old one and see how much water is in it.
My original alternator made it 193,000. Still charged, but was making some serious noise. I was pretty impressed. I have started checking pulleys every oil change. It's cheap insurance. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I might, if I had a new one. The realization that it'll rust from the inside out on all the seam and spot welds might hamper my enthusiasm, though. We had sloppy snow here today. I didn't get stuck, but I definitely need to get my 4x4 functional again. Discount Tire is having a decent sale on tires, so it might be time for a new set, as I'm currently at 46,000 on a set rated for 45. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I got my windshield replaced at the GMC dealer, the original finally cracked. The owner of the dealer was there when I picked it up, he said "a cracked windshield, time to trade up!" I told him that I was only at 185k. "Definitely time to trade up!" Guess he thinks that's all the longer they last, haha. Windshield was $280, which I didn't think was too bad. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
My 2006 usually comes up at the 8 to 9 thousand mark, which coincides pretty well with synthetic. I run AMSOIL XL for 10k and last oil change's analysis suggested moving up to 12k. Guess I'll try that on the next change. I don't think I could go back to going less than 10k, it's really nice. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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