2015 High Miler

This just started on my truck. Twice in a week. 15 Sierra with 218k. Ive had LEDs for 2 years and have never adjusted the MAF so I do not think it is related to either of those. I could possibly see thermostat issue but there has to be a better way to let know there is an issue than leave the cooling fans on. I’ll post if I find the root cause.

Both trucks look good! I’m looking at wrapping my bumpers in summit white. On the sensors, I surprisingly like the silver sensors on the red and may leave mine silver as well. But the color matched sensors looks good also. Does the added wrap effect the sensor any? They are fairly sensitive.

Same issue on my 15 summit white Sierra

I was @ 122,000 and my 2015 6L80 trans went out and the dealer I bought it from, used, got Gm to pay $2000 on the replacement. Same warrenty as above. It now has another 92,000 and it’s been fine. I did get it reprogrammed shortly after replacement. I would def go ask the dealer.

Looking forward to the build. Would love to turbo my truck as well. You doing the pill flip for the trans?

Unfortunately, I dont have the bulb... That is why I am trying to find out what it is. And yes its a blurry pic from the seller. its all I have to go off of. Thanks for your help.

I would do the battery disconnect again, but also turn the key on when disconnected. youill have to rest your clock and drive 5-10 miles and your thermometer will readjust. You may need to visit a tire shop or the dealer and see if they will rescan your tpms Def sounds a little off.

Safelite used OEM on my 2015 Sierra with lane keep assist 2 years ago.

What model bulb is this? H13 or something else? Bought some lights with non stock projectors but not sure of the bulb type.

Changed mine at 205,000 miles. Wish I had done it 150,000 miles sooner. One of the best and cost effective changes I’ve made to the truck.. Dismounted, they extended about the same. Like almost exactly the same. But the compression was considerably stiffer. No scales, just based on feel with multiple trials. My truck rides so much better, less bounce and better control. Slightly stiffer but def better. Not rough. good luck!

Here is mine Details above. Nothing special, just a reference.

Yes, long tubes and ORY pipe, stock to muffler, MagnaFlow 5in x 8in Oval Center/Offset Performance Muffler Exhaust 12259 - Straight-Through, 3in Inlet/3in Outlet Diameter, 24in long to factory tailpipe, no flapper. Great video! Thank you. Sounds really good but maybe more sound than I am looking for.

Does anyone have any video/sound clips of LT/cat delete/am muffler and resonator delete with a single exit? I’m thinking about removing resonator on my set up. It’s pretty tame right now and I’d like a little more but don’t want ridiculous either as it’s a DD.

Yes it will be easier for who ever is doing it. They won’t have to run/drive it to get temps to 192 to have it allow the fluid to move through the lines.

Shouldn’t have any rubbing. I have 2” spacers and 305/50/20 on factory snowflakes and BARELY rub in reverse turning left.

Bear thanks for the reply but it doesnt answer the question of how much difference. Current tires are Michelin Defender LTX 305/50/20 that list at 42#. Im looking at BFG 33/12.5/20 that list at 56#. How much difference is expected? Does anyone have any figures?

I think its a reasonable question to see what the difference is in a real world comparison. I currently have 32" Michelins that are rated at 43# each. I would like to go up to a 33 or 34" tire. The weight difference on most tires I've looked at is about 15# each. I do a lot of long highway runs and losing 1-2 vs 3-5 is a lot of difference. Adding 60# of rotating weight is significant. But, how significant? 1-2 I can live with but 4+ is not worth it to me. I added BFG AT on our Jeep and lost 2-3. It went from 21-22 to 18-19. Same height but wider and much heavier that the stock passenger car tire that came on it. Also, added wheels so there is extra weight there, too. Point is, asking about MPG loss with a tire change seems like a reasonable request.

if that is the case, why do many places places the blame in the design if the TC?

Ended up being a bad o2 sensor. It was working but not heating. Thanks for the replies.

How are your shaft angles?

it is rich at idle. And it lugs at low rpm 1200-1500. Talked to tuner and taking it in for a checkup and adjustments. Happy with the performance and efficiency so far. Runs great on 93 as well as 87. Just getting these codes on occasion. Also getting an hptuner for it as well. Going to learn how to tune this beotch myself. I have an intune Diablo II. It’s been good but I’d like more control at this point.

2015 Sierra 5.3 206,971 miles 6452 hours 32 MPH avg

2015 Sierra 5.3 206971 miles 6452.8 hours Avg 32 MPH

P0132 P0133 I get this code since my tune and I will take it back but I am curious as to what would cause it? it usually happens when its been driven, then parked and cooled some and then driven again. I am not aggressive when it happens. I've cleared it 4 times in 2 weeks.

2015 Sierra 5.3, 200,000+ miles It’s had this tick, off and on for a while. Now with headers and a tune, it’s a little more common. At at idle, it’s almost constant but rev it a few hundred rpm, it stops. Listen here It’s done this just about since I got the truck with 36,000 miles. I really notice it in drive thru’s but it does seem to be more noticeable with the headers. Any ideas on what it is? Assuming it’s a lifter but it’s been doing for ever so I’m not really sure as I’d assume a lifter ticking like that would fail by now.