Crazy TPW was 2/10 I was checking with Chevy Chat all this week. Monday it showed 3300 and Tuesday it showed 3400 Thursday they said it showed "bayed" I emailed my salesman Thursday night trying to get an idea when it may show up. He called this afternoon and said he had the invoice with a shipping expiration of 2/18. Texted these pics a few minutes later after he decided to go over to the body shop lot where lots of their new stuff is dropped off. I am wondering if the paint is even dry. Pretty good turnaround seeing how we ordered it on 1/13/20 I should be picking it up early next week
Crazy supposedly it was built between the 11th and the 12. Chevy chat said it was shown to be on its way to the dealer today (I doubted it) I had emailed my salesman Yesterday to see if he had any info. He called and texted me the invoice this afternoon. Then he decided to take a run over to their body shop where new stuff is sometimes unloaded and holy cow he found it sitting in their lot he doesn't even have the paperwork at the main dealership yet. I am wondering if the paint is even dry LOL
The build dates are a Target Production Week not a specific date. Mine had the same date 2/10/20 I checked Monday and it was still at 3300 scheduled for production. I checked Tuesday and it was 3400 Broadcast for production. Checked again yesterday (Thursday) and it was built and showed as bayed in Indiana. Rep couldn't tell me the order status code but I am thinking it is 4B00. It is either waiting to be sent to have the spray on bedliner as I think they farm that out or it is waiting to be transported to my dealer. I have an email into my salesman to see if he has a delivery expiration date yet so I have an idea of when they plan to ship it. I would bet yours is probably built already as well. Hit up the chat on the Chevy or GMC website with your order number and they should be able to update you.
Ordered a CC short box 4wd LTZ 6.2 max tow Jan 13th TPW is next week. Love my 17 6.2 max tow and the 14 I had before the current one. Hope the 2020 is just as good.
Here at my independent repair shop we do used car inspections all the time. One of the things we see quite often is poor quality body & paint work. A professional job will be next to impossible to detect there may be clues that something may have been replaced such as part number tags on the inside of a panel, different color e-coat on the inside of a panel etc. What that looks like to me is exactly what the painter who replied to this thread said. Whoever painted it was lazy didn't disassemble, remove or mask it properly. If he took shortcuts with that what else did he shortcut? White is a pretty easy color to blend/hide, I would get it under some bright fluorescent lighting and take a look at the panels adjacent to the overspray. Look at it from different angles so the light reflects off it differently. What you are looking for is differences in the texture of the paint and or subtle color differences. Look at a panel you know has not been painted and compare the texture and shine so you know what to look for. That way you can see where the repair starts and ends so that you can get an idea of what was done. And small repairs done properly can end up with large amounts of the vehicle being painted. I just turned in my 14 lease I had 2 scratches in the passenger door just in front of the handle one was about and inch just through to the primer and the other was about 2.5" long to bare metal with a slight dent. My buddy who is a painter did the repair no insurance no report and if I didn't tell you where he fixed it I doubt you would ever be able to find it. That said to match the color properly he had to blend it out to where the color went almost to the back edge of the door and the entire door was cleared after that. I have no worries that the repair was done correctly and if the buyout on the truck wasn't so stupidly high my other buddy wanted it even knowing it had some cosmetic work. As was said they should be able to clean up the overspray and smooth out any orangepeel if they did a decent enough job on it. If the texture is too bad or if the undelaying bodywork is poor (shrinkage or sand scratches) I would see if the selling dealer is willing to make it right. It may be a lot to ask to have them completely redo the repair if it is extensive but my guess is it probably isn't and if they want to keep you as a customer it may be in their best interest to do so. On the flip side dealing with customers everyday my advise is to be polite and simply ask them what they can do to make the situation right, they may surprise you. If you go in guns blazing being a jerk and making accusations you will most likely get pushback and wont get very far IMHO Craig
Finally took delivery today of my 2017 CCSB 6.2 max tow. Ordered it back late October and Chevy picked up the order Nov 3, Other than being a little slow it was uneventful until it was built and shipped. Trying to track it for more than a month I finally got a call from my buddy who is my salesman saying this was going to be the weirdest conversation he had ever had to have. He indicated GM had notified the dealership that there had been a partial train derailment and that my truck had made it to Michigan but was being held for a quality control inspection. I did a little Googling and did end up finding out the train was hit by a tornado in Thrall Tx and it derailed 12 autoracks . My salesman said their dealership had 3 vehicles that GM ended up buying back as they were damaged. I got lucky and mine had no issues. Couple shots of it at the dealer next to the 14 6.2 max to it replaced and one after I got back at my shop. Just got done installing the fold a cover and hope to swap out the factory rubber with some Cooper Zeons in the next few days
Got the 14 all cleaned up today, Ready to give it back. I had to make second to last lease payment on it this weekend would have rather just given it back without doing that. 22,800 miles 2% left on oil life and less than 1/4 tank of fuel left . Salesman called a minute ago so excited to tell me mine actually showed up. Picking it up tomorrow at 1:00pm
You at correct they should be replacing the affected bank of lifters and the OLM along with inspecting the camshaft and replacing if damaged ENGINE MISFIRE/TICK NOISE, MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED, DTC P0300 SET TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINReference Number(s): 15-06-01-002E, Date of Issue: Oct 13, 2016 Affected Model(s): 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade 2016-2017 Cadillac CTS-V 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2014-2017 Chevrolet Corvette 2015-2017 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe 2016-2017 Chevrolet Camaro 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 2015-2017 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL Equipped with 5.3L Engine (RPO L83) or 6.2L Engine (RPO L86, LT1, LT4, LV3) Attention: This Bulletin also applies to any of the above models that may be Export from North America vehicles. Supercedes: This Bulletin has been revised to add the 2017 Model Year and replaces PIP5316. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 15-06-01-002D and PIP5316. CONDITION Some customers may comment on a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on and/or an engine misfire/tick noise. Technicians may find DTC P0300 set or in history. CAUSE This may be the result of an active fuel management (AFM) lifter that is mechanically collapsed and/or stuck all of the time. This may be the result of internal locking pin damage in the lifter, due to oil aeration. This may be the result of a lifter that has collapsed and is stuck in the lifter bore. CORRECTION NOTE: Inspect the camshaft for damage while the lifters are removed from the engine. If damage is found, replace the camshaft per SI. If SI diagnosis does not isolate the cause of this concern, technicians should inspect for valve operation. If the valve(s) are not moving, replace the valve lifter oil manifold and affected bank of AFM lifters. Refer to Valve Lifter Oil Manifold Replacement and Valve Lifter Replacement in SI. If the lifter has spun the bore, the guides should also be replaced. RECOMMENDATION/INSTRUCTIONS There are two approved processes for removing the lifter when stuck in the bore. Use vice grips with a slide hammer. NOTE: Be sure not to pry on the sealing surface of the block. Use vice grips with a small pry bar. Typically one of the above approved processes will remove the lifter that is stuck in the bore. If not, the engine will need to be replaced. With the lifter removed, be sure to inspect the bore for any damage. Typically the lifter bores will look good with no indication of damage. PARTS INFORMATION Part Number Description 12660737 MANIFOLD ASM-VLV LFTR OIL (SERV KIT) (L83, L86, or LT1) 12660736 MANIFOLD ASM-VLV LFTR OIL (SERV KIT) (LT4) 12623104 GASKET-VLV LFTR OIL UPR MANIF 12645725 LIFTER ASM-VLV (AFM) (4 per Bank) 12659260 GASKET-CYL HD (6.2L) 12622325 GASKET-CYL HD (5.3L) 11546959 RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS (10) 11611976 LEFT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD BOLT (1) 11546959 LEFT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS (9) 12657093 GASKET-EXH MANIF 12626354 GASKET-INT MANIF (8) 12619787 GASKET-VLV RKR ARM CVR 12623308 GASKET-F/PMP BRKT 12618336 PIPE ASM-FUEL FEED INTER 12618337 PIPE ASM-FUEL FEED INTER 12618338 PIPE ASM-FUEL FEED 12668553 SEAL KIT-F/INJR (O RING) (2) WARRANTY INFORMATION For vehicles repaired under the Powertrain coverage, use the following labor operation. Reference the Applicable Warranties section of Investigate Vehicle History (IVH) for coverage information. Labor Operation Description Labor Time 4080978* Valve Lifter Oil Manifold and Valve Lifter Left Side Replacement 9.4 hrs (Silverado, Sierra) 14.8 hrs (CTS-V) 9.2 hrs (Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon) 11.7 hrs (Corvette) 7.0 hrs (Camaro) 4080988* Valve Lifter Oil Manifold and Valve Lifter Right Side Replacement 10.9 hrs (Silverado, Sierra) 15.5 hrs (CTS-V) 9.3 hrs (Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon) 11.4 hrs (Corvette) 9.0 hrs (Camaro) *This is a unique Labor Operation for Bulletin use only.
^This.....I have a 14 CCSB LTZ 6.2 NHT it has a 6 speed and 3.73s I should be getting my New 17 (similarly equipped) this next week (been ordered since Oct) and it will be a 8speed 3.42 Looking at effective first gear ratios the 6 speed 3.73 truck is 15.02:1 and the 8 speed 3.42 truck is 15.59:1 (multiply first gear by rear axle ratio) so the 8 speed has a deeper starting ratio with a taller final drive ratio
Well my excitment for mine being off the train was short lived. Talked to my buddy who is my salesman today and he said what followed would be the strangest conversation he has had to have with a customer. Apparently somewhere along the way from Mexico the train had a partial derailment. Supposedly no train cars tipped over but my truck after finally making it to the VDC is being held for a quality control inspection. I guess GM has already bought back 2 Chevy Trax destin for my dealer that were on the same train. Hoping mine wasn't in one of the train cars that had issues.
Most of the circuit is solid state either in the BCM or the headlamp modules themselves. I kid you not the first step in diagnosing any of these newer vehicles even on something as simple as a light out is to install a scan tool. It will most likely have fault codes stored. If not there will probably be bi-directional control available and you can monitor what the BCM and headlight modules see for values and or responses when actuating them. FWIW the only fuse I see in the headlamp circuit is a 10A one in the under hood fuse panel it also shows a "high beam relay" hard to tell if it is replaceable or not from the schematic. If it is one of the newer replacable style black solid state relays they have been using it wouldn't surprise me if it went bad. They are kind of a common issue on the older stuff we see at the shop, pretty expensive too for no more than they are.
I would caution against making a blanket statement about changing oil viscosity as mentioned a couple posts earlier. While it is true thicker oils can provide more film strength there are other variables to consider. While CAFE standards are pushing most manufacturers to thinner oils that isn't the only consideration Most modern engines have gone to variable valve timing and direct injection and many engines utilize oil pressure as a means of controlling these functions. Chryslers will actually set a fault code and a MIL (check engine light) if you use the wrong oil. I would bet other manufacturers will be following suit. The engines in the trucks also use a 2 stage oil pump and the clearances are set up for the thinner oil. With tight clearances and thick oil it is also possible to not get enough oil flow across the bearing.
Cool thanks for the link, I can buy the OEM ones at wholesale and they get delivered right to my shop for no extra charge I got some good news this morning apparently my truck is off the train and waiting for a semi from the VDC about an hour away. Hope they get it to me before the end of the month as the deals are pretty decent right now. Not sure which way they are going to move. I could do the deal now and take my chances but I did that last time around and actually my first payment came in the mail before the truck was delivered which just added insult to injury LOL
Those tie downs look pretty stout. I had planned on ordering the factory ones, but somehow it was missed on the build sheet. Where did you order those from? My truck BTW is still in transit, has not been seen since it was in Kansas City railyard back on 2/7 was supposed to be here by last Monday but may not even be in MI yet Grrrrrrr.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 154 Members, 1 Anonymous, 3,339 Guests (See full list)
- Rick Franklin
- Michael Summerford
- Denny 358
- timothy coop
- Cool J
- My First GMC
- SILVER SLED
- 70 W-30
- Rickykim Lingner
- Heather Stevens
- Michael Abraczinskas
- Dan Martin
- Kevin Walsh
- f8l vnm
- John Devine
- Hogan Vinoski
- Sajad Mankave
- Morgan Eaves
- Dalton Delogu
- Black and Blue Z71
- Jared Hoefsmit
- jagabom (Esquire)
- Mike Barber