Good point the previous owner could have fudged the records or the oil change place could have used a cheap recycled oil (maybe even poured in used oil from someone elses vehicle each time, the stuff probably looked like that super bowl commercial about the chunky milk) I can see that there would be a financial incentive for the oil change places to do that. I am with you on this man, there has got to be an anomaly causing this very strange issue.
Cheyenne383 out on the open road I run the in the 4whl auto mode in the rain/snow/icy conditions which prevents the binding. Why would you not utilize the auto 4whl setting instead of 4whl high out on the road? It seems like someone had told me at one time that the 3/4 ton and up trucks did not have a 4whl auto setting, does yours happen to be a 3/4 ton?
It did create some stress and your transfer case probably has a little less clutch pack life I would probably just go ahead and swap the fluid out in the transfers case to get rid on any clutch dust material and drive chain metal shavings that may have been shaved off. The transfer case holds very little fluid like less than 2 quarts of DEXRON Vl and is easy to change out if you have a transfer hand pump takes like 30 minutes in your driveway. Make sure and clean the magnetic plug. If you can post a pic of the fluid as it drains and a good pic of the drain plug magnet with debris on it. that will probably encourage a lot more people to do a early fluid change LOL
OLM always seems to be a hotly debated subject. I have a 2009 6.0 with just a tad over 200k that I recently bought. I pulled the drivers side valve cover to swap it to the new design. By the service records the previous owner was very diligent to run full synthetic oil and ALSO run the OLM all the way down before oil change. Some oil change intervals were over 10k miles. This 6.0 is running well with great oil pressure and very little lifter noise HOWEVER if you follow the OLM then what you see in the pics below will be inside YOUR engine too. The deposits are not baked on and wipe off easily with a paper towel but obviously the entire engine is coated with this layer of sludge. Probably does not hurt anything? If that does not bother you then go ahead and run the long oil change intervals. Too late for this 6.0 but I will never run one past 5k miles before an oil change. Oil may test just fine at 5 maybe up to 20k or more miles but if it leaves sludge chit hanging around my engine then to me it is not worth saving a few bucks and it my oil gets changed well before the OLM indicates it is due.
Kids probably dripped some strawberry milk into the control button.........happened on my back door window control button. Now no more food and drink for kids in the truck! Haha.
Dnt replied to LilKev's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500I would probably add a rear diff fluid change out to my list and of course if it is 4x4 you need to do the front diff and transfer case. Other thing I would do is pull the front wheels and check the front wheel bearings/ brakes/ball joints/tierod ends. At over 100k I always change the brake fluid/power steering fluid. I just swap out what is in the reservoir for fresh. The small hand pumps work awesome for this. I have a hand pump for each type of fluid so I do not cross contaminate. I do that about every 30k. Only takes a few minutes. I started this regimen several years ago when I had power steering issues with a high mileage 06 The fluid change cured the power steering noise (I actually changed it and ran it then changed it again over a few days to get 80 to 90% new fluid in there) and from there forward it made over 150k trouble free miles. The power steering fluid turns black after +100k or so and a lot of the systems get noisy because of dirty fluid. I would probably also take a close look at the battery connections and maybe get your local auto parts to do a battery load test to see if it is still in good shape. If it is the original battery at 8 yrs old it is probably starting to lose CCA. Something you would want to know about for sure. These old trucks are pretty much solid with proper maintenance there is no reason you cannot drive it for many years, well except for the onslaught of the self driving electric cars/trucks that will replace all our awesome trucks in a few years.
As stated in an earlier post it all depends upon your needs/wants and mainly your personal financial situation. If you have a lot of extra disposable income get the 6.2, it WILL be more fun to drive......... pretty much simple as that. If cash is tight buy a Toyota Prius (aka Penalty Box) that will learn U as cowboy Randy would say.
I'd be interested to see how you'd do the install without disconnecting the wiring. Just pull the 2 screws that hold the air sensor in the intake and pull it out without unplugging it from the electrical connector then slide it back in still connected and put screws back in.
Has it ever failed to start using the key? I would suspect the the "bad battery cable issue" that has been posted on here before. If it has ever had an issue starting using the key I would replace the cable. I cannot remember the exact details but a search should turn it up it is here somewhere on this massive forum? To me if your radio settings are affected that means the truck has lost battery power completely for a few seconds.
Dnt replied to Loafer987's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingBreakin has little to no affect. With the mods that you have, you will have to keep up with the mpg manually for a while to see what you "really" have. No way that I would go in and mess with the computer with a programmer right now, just in case there really is an issue and GM could use that to deny warranty! Do manual mpg calculations for at least 2000 miles then re-evaluate your results. I have a 2018 6.2 Ultimate that has averaged around 21.5 mpg over its first 6000 miles. I do drive like grandpa most of the time and try to avoid long warm-up idling/sitting idling etc but anyone that drives a new 6.2 has to "release the beast" every once in a while or their head will just explode! Haha
Hans has a good point it looks OFF on the Denali but looks "Natural" on the HO with the 3.5" lift 10 x 20 mayhem Hatchets and Nitto Grappler tires so it stays on the HO. And yes the HO is my beater daily driver since the landscapers rock chipped my Denali at work. Over 3k to paint the back 1/4 of the truck. I might drop a strap over that hook and drag the landscaping truck off into a mud bog. That Will "Learn-Um" On the backup sensors I wonder if there is a kit so that you can add them if you want? I will have to say that they are very handy to have. Even with the backup camera you can more easily judge how close your "Hook and Shackle" hitch is getting to that BMW R1200GS LC or 2014 MB GLK 350 bumper behind you.................................
From an earlier reply it sounds like the dealerships make it a practice of resetting the OLM to 100% at the time of the sale. I will continue getting my first oil change at around 2000 miles or less on new vehicles as it sounds like no one purchasing a new vehicle can ever really know what the true OLM reading truly is.
I hate it when that happens. Only a few things that can go wrong right there. Could be as simple as, if you unplugged your MAF sensor assembly to remove the intake box and tube then it may require a few drive cycles to reset itself? When you put everything back together if you have a small leak anywhere in the air intake assembly it will exhibit idle symptoms. I would carefully take everything back apart and check for a cracked plastic or flex hose or ill fitting worm gear clamp, if all good then be sure that everything clamps back on securely. Another possibility is that if you were aggressively pushing the throttle body blade open by hand to do the cleaning then you may have gotten it out of calibration. You have to treat these like what they are "precision air metering devices". I would do a few drive cycles and then if problem persists take everything back apart and double check it for leaks. If throttle body is out of calibration the dealership might be able to stroke it and reset it without having to replace. Another potential problem is the MAF if it was improperly cleaned and or damaged it will also affect the idle. Only you know exactly what was done on your vehicle, hopefully this will lead you down a proper diagnostic path.
The bumper ultrasonic sensors do cause some problems. I ran across a sale at my local TSC store last night I bought this cool #10,000 lb Hook and Shackle hitch (Jeff Foxworthy says you might be a RedNeck, if you run a Hook and Shackle Hitch Hahahaha) I had to drill an additional 5/8" hole through the 2" x 2" solid steel drawbar to move it in about 2 1/2 to 3" so that the sensors would not "SEE" it and beep all the time. Right now the hitch is on my 2009 TaHO to test and it, works on it also without upsetting the bumper sensors. Hook and Shackle looks better than the Bull Nuts right? YeeHaw
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