As stated in an earlier post it all depends upon your needs/wants and mainly your personal financial situation. If you have a lot of extra disposable income get the 6.2, it WILL be more fun to drive......... pretty much simple as that. If cash is tight buy a Toyota Prius (aka Penalty Box) that will learn U as cowboy Randy would say.
I'd be interested to see how you'd do the install without disconnecting the wiring. Just pull the 2 screws that hold the air sensor in the intake and pull it out without unplugging it from the electrical connector then slide it back in still connected and put screws back in.
Has it ever failed to start using the key? I would suspect the the "bad battery cable issue" that has been posted on here before. If it has ever had an issue starting using the key I would replace the cable. I cannot remember the exact details but a search should turn it up it is here somewhere on this massive forum? To me if your radio settings are affected that means the truck has lost battery power completely for a few seconds.
Dnt replied to Loafer987's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingBreakin has little to no affect. With the mods that you have, you will have to keep up with the mpg manually for a while to see what you "really" have. No way that I would go in and mess with the computer with a programmer right now, just in case there really is an issue and GM could use that to deny warranty! Do manual mpg calculations for at least 2000 miles then re-evaluate your results. I have a 2018 6.2 Ultimate that has averaged around 21.5 mpg over its first 6000 miles. I do drive like grandpa most of the time and try to avoid long warm-up idling/sitting idling etc but anyone that drives a new 6.2 has to "release the beast" every once in a while or their head will just explode! Haha
Hans has a good point it looks OFF on the Denali but looks "Natural" on the HO with the 3.5" lift 10 x 20 mayhem Hatchets and Nitto Grappler tires so it stays on the HO. And yes the HO is my beater daily driver since the landscapers rock chipped my Denali at work. Over 3k to paint the back 1/4 of the truck. I might drop a strap over that hook and drag the landscaping truck off into a mud bog. That Will "Learn-Um" On the backup sensors I wonder if there is a kit so that you can add them if you want? I will have to say that they are very handy to have. Even with the backup camera you can more easily judge how close your "Hook and Shackle" hitch is getting to that BMW R1200GS LC or 2014 MB GLK 350 bumper behind you.................................
From an earlier reply it sounds like the dealerships make it a practice of resetting the OLM to 100% at the time of the sale. I will continue getting my first oil change at around 2000 miles or less on new vehicles as it sounds like no one purchasing a new vehicle can ever really know what the true OLM reading truly is.
I hate it when that happens. Only a few things that can go wrong right there. Could be as simple as, if you unplugged your MAF sensor assembly to remove the intake box and tube then it may require a few drive cycles to reset itself? When you put everything back together if you have a small leak anywhere in the air intake assembly it will exhibit idle symptoms. I would carefully take everything back apart and check for a cracked plastic or flex hose or ill fitting worm gear clamp, if all good then be sure that everything clamps back on securely. Another possibility is that if you were aggressively pushing the throttle body blade open by hand to do the cleaning then you may have gotten it out of calibration. You have to treat these like what they are "precision air metering devices". I would do a few drive cycles and then if problem persists take everything back apart and double check it for leaks. If throttle body is out of calibration the dealership might be able to stroke it and reset it without having to replace. Another potential problem is the MAF if it was improperly cleaned and or damaged it will also affect the idle. Only you know exactly what was done on your vehicle, hopefully this will lead you down a proper diagnostic path.
The bumper ultrasonic sensors do cause some problems. I ran across a sale at my local TSC store last night I bought this cool #10,000 lb Hook and Shackle hitch (Jeff Foxworthy says you might be a RedNeck, if you run a Hook and Shackle Hitch Hahahaha) I had to drill an additional 5/8" hole through the 2" x 2" solid steel drawbar to move it in about 2 1/2 to 3" so that the sensors would not "SEE" it and beep all the time. Right now the hitch is on my 2009 TaHO to test and it, works on it also without upsetting the bumper sensors. Hook and Shackle looks better than the Bull Nuts right? YeeHaw
Dnt replied to Big E in TX's topic in 2019 Silverado & Sierra ModsI like the wheels in the first pic. I agree with what someone else mentioned that you need some silver contrast. All black or all chrome wheels just look plain to me. My old Beater Tahoe that I recently bought for driving to work has some 10 x 20 Mayhem 8106 Hatchets with Nitto Grappler XO's. See the Hatchet outline in the pic? I have been surprised at how many random people comment on the look. To me it is silly to lift and add wheels/knobby tires to a Hybrid vehicle but Hey I did not do this, I bought it this way. I do not plan on spending any cash to undo it either, besides I kind of like the look. Haha
Quad tips look great I will have that added to my 19+ truck before I pick it up at the dealer (if it is available for a 6.2) when I trade up in a year or so. If you do not have a tip that says Borla how would be people identify the exhaust system? crawl under your truck? Hmm this pic is upside down so try not to get too dizzy, you might fall down and be looking under a truck or something LOL!
Man it is disappointing to hear that the 19's are STILL having this problem. I have had (3) new GM 1500 truck's a 14 - 5.3 6spd / 16 - 6.2 8 spd / 17 - 6.2 8 spd and they all had the harsh slow speed downshift to some degree with the 14 being the worst. This 18 seems to be "harsh downshift at slow speed" FREE so far, but it only has 6k miles.
2009 SLT 5.3 cannot remember what trans it had but it shifted funny at times but never clunked for 90k miles / 2014 SLT 5.3 6spd clunked for 60k miles / 2016 Denali 6.2 8spd clunked for 25k miles / 2017 Denali Ultimate 6.2 8spd clunked for 20k miles / 2018 Denali Ultimate 6.2 8spd NO CLUNKS but only have around 6k miles so far. The other ones would clunk under very certain conditions typically at slow speed and slightly decreasing speed like in a parking lot maneuver. It felt to me like a hard/harsh downshift. For whatever reason I cannot get this 18 to do it?
I was curious so I did a quick google search and ran across this youtube on repairing front to back movement on GM power seats. It does not specify the model years covered so it might be for just the older models? Looked like a pretty detailed video, I would assume that you could at least gather some info on what to look for to pinpoint the exact spot that it is moving? At the first of the video they mention running the seat all the way back to test it to see if this repair will fix the issue, that is about all that I watched.....Mine is in a pivot point that is part of the up and down track and it is not in the track screw itself. If I let my seat all the way down or all the way up it binds the pivot and does not shift but my comfortable position is in between those extremes LOL. Rock on brother.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 68 Members, 0 Anonymous, 312 Guests (See full list)
- Kevin S
- Dylan B
- Dana Helmly Jr.
- HK GUY
- Pine Bark01
- Ben Berkenpas