stevev

2 still available, part #32501. as mentioned use this to turn off AFM on 2007-2015 motors instead of a Range device. Also includes preloaded tunes and other adjustable options. Discount given for family/friends or Zelle payment. Thanks.

I wanted to bring this back to the top again. I have a couple more Hypertech Max Energy #32501 tuners again. See description above. These are a very basic plug and play programmer and they are good for AFM delete on the 2007-2015 motors. Price is $160 shipped via Paypal.

I have a couple of unmarried/vin unlocked Hypertech Max Energy Programmers. Each are in good condition and include OBD cable and USB cable for updates: $190 shipped - 32501 model, works on a variety of GM/Chevy trucks, suvs, and cars from 2006-2015, GAS and DIESEL, see screen shot photo. It has a regular or premium fuel tune for extra power and fuel economy, and adjustable top speed limiter, adjustable rev limiter, speedometer calibrator for tire/gear changes, adjustable shift firmness, AFM V4 mode delete, and read and clear diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) or check engine lights. Go to Hypertech.com and enter your year and model and it will tell you the specific options and performance gains for your vehicle. I have 3 left. $140 shipped - 32004 model, only works on 2007 - 2010 GM trucks and suvs - Silverado Sierra Avalanche Suburban Yukon Tahoe (gas motors only 3.7L, 4.8L 5.3L, 6.0L, 6.2L), and 2006-2008 Trailblazer SS, as shown in screen shot photo. This is an older model number that has been replaced by 32501, it has all the same features, except it DOES NOT have an option to turn off the AFM V4 mode on the 2007-2008 motors. I have 1 left. It will be easier for me to just email you the photos of them, and I can also provide the screen shot status from the Hypertech software program to prove that these tuners are not vin locked. PM me if interested! Payment by Paypal and I ship promptly by Priority Mail with tracking provided.

Unless I am missing something, wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just turn the AFM off with a tuner?

I just checked my 2014 (build date June 2014), it looks like that material is already notched out around my ground. I never had any issues as described by the OP.

final thoughts for now: I do like the canned tune and shifting is somewhat back to normal.. It still holds the lower gear (higher rpms) on some roads. Which is fine though as it has greatly reduced the clunking my truck had. Before it would lug along in the high gear and then clunk and downshift It would clunk along the same sections of road during my daily commute, now it doesn't. I previously had a Hypertech tune on my truck and didn't notice this shift change like the Diablosport. But I also didn't notice as much performance gain compared to the Diablosport.

Mike L. is who emailed me back. He first said: "The shift pattern should not change at all, it should shift just like it did, especially at part throttle.' Later he said: "Well, we cant change the gearing, so it should cruise at the same rpm, did you adjust the throttle boost? That may make it hold gears longer at part throttle." I didn't adjust the throttle boost for my tune.

my intune i2 update: drove it some more today and finally it did shift to the higher gears on some roads, dropping rpms from around 1700 down to 1400. Still seems higher than stock (around 1100 to 1200 rpms) when in the highest gear. I also emailed Diablosport and they said the tuning should not change the shift patterns at all. They said give it some time with the tune, and then later return it back to stock for a few days, and see if I notice a difference. It makes sense it will stay in the lower gear for more instant power/throttle response. I think I also noticed less clunking too from wherever my clunk comes from (transmission or rear end due to driveline slack) that my dealer says is normal.

Just installed intune i2 87 Octane tune with Firm shifts and AFM V4 off. Took it for a short 10 minute drive and definitely notice better throttle response and power. But the only unusual thing I was noticing is that on a flat road going 35 to 40 mph, the rpms were still staying high around 1700 rpms like it was staying in a lower gear and wouldn't shift to the higher gears where the rpms are normally around 1100 to 1200 on this same road. Is this normal? Or should I give it a week or so to relearn the driving parameters if they were wiped out during the tune install? I don't care about mpg's that much but if it's going to run in the lower gear (higher rpms) alot more, then I think it's going to burn more fuel.

I doubt this may help, but you could try pulling the fuse for the radio screen to perform a reset, it is located in the passenger side fuse panel at the end of the dashboard.

Maybe he's over the 36k mile limit for the factory warranty. My battery died this past summer, only 2 years old and 13k miles. Had the truck towed to the dealership. New battery and everything was covered under warranty.

^already torqued them to 100-ft lbs and added the leaf springs clamps. Clunk noise is still there, although sometimes doesn't sound as loud.

a lot of the older complaints seem to related to the slip yoke and the clunk or "bump" you feel when coming to stop. A coworker had an early 2000's Silverado and I felt that bump everytime when riding in his truck when he came to a stop. I think the "clunk" we are experiencing may be something different. My clunk noise appears to come from the front of the truck, like from the transmission or transfer case, not the rear end. It occurs either when letting off the gas or lightly cruising along and the truck downshifts and makes the clunk noise. Maybe it's just related to slop in the drivetrain or something? I don't hear or feel any clunk/bump when coming to a stop like the older Chevy owners...

Dealer claims it's normal. Mine doesn't clunk much going downhill, but rather on flat ground or going uphill and I take my foot off the gas, it clunks. I owned some F150's and they never clunked like this.

About a month ago, it happened to me one time and the radio display was blank at the same time. Next time I drove the truck and since then I haven't seen it come back. I think it was caused by the Range AFM disabler I had plugged in, because it also caused service stabilitrak and brake assist messages too.

^when you say new radio module, are you talking the HMI module behind the glove box? I hope not the HMI module since some of us already swapped HMI modules for the navigation add-on and don't want to mess that up...

Any new update on when the software fix is coming out?

For local driving, just drive around in M5 mode and it will lock out the V4/AFM mode and thus no more V4 to V8 flapper valve squeak. I finally just tried that this week and the shifts seem better too and less clunking.

found some service articles about the vibrations here, just scroll down halfway and read parts 1 and 2: http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?m=201503

have only 5k miles on my truck now, rarely drive on the highway, but recently did and felt the vibration at 75mph. I only just felt it in my seat - the console and steering wheel was not shaking. I guess I'll see what my dealer says/does.

clamping it will get rid of the squeak, but yeah you'll get a slight drone when cruising in V4 mode. I clamped mine all of this past winter, but recently took the clamp off. Of course the squeak is now back and I was trying to spray some lubricant in there but it doesn't seem to help.

^probably with custom wiring you could make it work by connecting the two strips together - perhaps even the top strip would then come on bright during the day too as your DRL.

Nice, but I'll pass. I prefer to have the top and bottom strips matching at night, not one brighter than the other.

since I park inside my garage, every day I leave in the morning (daylight) my headlights stay on until I drive up the street and then they turn off (due to Auto lights). Would this be bad or reduce the life of the HID kit? (I don't have a kit yet) I know I could turn the Auto switch real quick to turn off the lights, but then that also turns off the LED running lights, which I would prefer to keep on.