This seems way too simple. My brake booster is acting funny, already had some kind of a recall done on it where the dealer increased pressures. Lately though, especially in low speed traffic, I'm getting the abs activated even though the wheels are not locking up. Thus, pointing me to a soon to fail brake booster. So basically the steps are: disable 4 cyl mode, cut belt, remove booster, fill holes with plugs and re-route some piping as stated in post 1?
Apologize for not getting back to you sooner, I'm sure you were pretty frustrated after completing a routine job and seeing all the CELs. I know I was. So this happened so long ago, I don't recall what I did to fix the issue. Do you remember what you did, for documentation purposes? I'm sure someone else will run into this.
There was a specific reason the CTS-V from a specific year group was recommended over the ZL-1. I believe their stalls are identical, had something to do with mounting. I don't recall the details. Shop that did the work on trans and converter (my converter failed at 80k, all stock setup but I towed a heavy trailer often) has a world record holding C7 so I'm gonna go with their recommendation.
I'm running the cts-v tq converter on a built 6L80. Feels almost stock. Feels kinda sluggish at low speeds, especially when cold. Shifts are crisper. Didn't even need a trans tune. No codes. Since I just crested 100k miles, going to start massing parts for a top end rebuild (cam, heads, L86 IM/TB).
Currently running 275/70/18 Ko2 on OEM suspension for the last 50k miles. Shocks are toast now; never had a rub. Anybody running 285/75/18 (OEM wheels) with the 6112? That's a close to 35" diameter tire.
Not planning on adding on too much more power over stock. May do a mild bumpstick and exhaust work but nothing crazy. What makes you think the zl1 tune is going to do you any good? I'd go for a full trans tune custom to the 6l80 versus an oem 6l90 tune.
I have a harder shift 1-2 and 2-3, much crisper shifts and downshifts. No trans tune required. Love it. Stock power for now.
Hey all, after the 4th powertrain warranty covered rear end rebuild, I was recently diagnosed with a slipping TC and more than likely, valve damage. Nursing it along for a few more thousand miles. GM offered me $750 off the repair which I declined ($2700 for partial rebuild using OEM parts). Here's the plan: ZL1 TC, Sonnax upgraded guts + steel clutches. ZL1 is an approx 200RPM higher stall than OEM silverado. 3 bolts vs 6 bolts. Happy to 600whp. Work getting done in the next 4-weeks, will update with results afterward! Should keep the trans good for the next 150k miles.
UPDATE: apparently the repair from March 2019 @ approx 80k may have been done incorrectly, they are not 100%. The tech that performed that repair is no longer employed at the dealer...maybe that's an indicator. The paperwork states the carrier nut backed off and tore the whole diff up. All the guts were replaced. Unfortunately, now I'm getting torque converter shudder - it slips in 5th/6th gear holding approx 65mph. On ramps at partial throttle and slight grades on the highway are the worst. Had them drain/fill the trans while it was in since it was due. I will take it in next week, told them I'd give it a tank of gas to see if it goes away but it sounds like they'll cover it under the powertrain warranty since I'm about 3 weeks out of warranty. If they won't, I'll go aftermarket on the TC with some minor upgrades to the 6L80.
Due to the strike, parts have been on backorder. Been without a truck for 5 weeks. Luckily they gave me a loaner blazer to roll around in. Stock height (275/70/18 LT tires) Will update this when I have a parts list for this repair. This dealership has a two "world class technicians" and I've requested one of them to take a look at everything before it's buttoned up. Shit, if they can't get it right... No lemon law case here, has to be 4x times for same issue within 12mo period.
The issues have varied. From the beginning... Lived in Los Angeles, couldn't find a maxtow 4wd 6.5ft bed anywhere near me. Flew to Las Vegas one-way to pick up the truck with the specs I desired. On the way home, noticed the ever popular vibration. Didn't think anything of it aside from annoying vibration I'm stuck with. Fast forward to 30k miles, I'm sick of the vibrations. At this point, I moved to Alabama. Dealer put a scope on it and diagnosed out of balance driveshaft. They replaced driveshaft, rebuilt differential and replaced pinion bearing amongst other parts. 60k miles, pinion bearing failure, lash set incorrectly (so they say). Alabama dealer. 80k miles, pinion bearing failure. Rear diff rebuilt. Ohio dealer. 90k miles, pinion bearing failure. Parts on order and due to strike, I'm out a few weeks. No ETA of parts or ECD. Has me thinking, do I really want to deal with this $3500+ repair every 20k miles with zero confidence it is fixed correctly? Out of pocket nothing, all under warranty. But not the next time.
After 4x major rear end re-builds, looking to go aftermarket or adapt 3/4 ton axle/diff if possible. 90k miles; max tow 3.73 truck. This will be my last warranty repair, chevy doesn't know what the cause is. Otherwise, love the truck so help me out here. Yes, I tow a heavy trailer but within the limits and only a few thousand miles a year.
I must be missing something. Nothing on the distro block looks like a fuse. Are they integrated? Replaceable?
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