CounterMeasure

I get about 12K miles on the fluid before mine starts really banging and clunking around often. I get the tranny serviced at the dealer, and there's an immediate improvement. Much smoother and way fewer bangs and clunks. Then it goes downhill as the miles add up and I rinse and repeat at the dealer.The dealer has told me many customers have commented on improvements after the service. The fluid isn't really discolored and no metal in the filter, so the transmissions are just susceptible to when the fluid or additives starts to break down a little bit.

My Denali with the 6.2 has had the same noise since day 1. Happens more when its cold or humid, and sometimes during acceleration. I've tracked it to the driver side exhaust manifold area. I think its a rattle inside the catalytic converter right here. Dealers won't do anything about it because they can't exactly pinpoint it and GM is using their standard "normal operating characteristic" escape card.

Part of me says it was the truck was trying to get your attention to the fuel gauge and fuel light. Given the pattern, seems like a short in the steering wheel buttons.

I just got my 2015 back from collapsed AFM lifter and bent pushrod on #6. The interesting thing is I never noticed a misfire or had the engine light come on. The tapping just got louder and louder. Drove it at least 8K miles with a noticeable tapping until I finally had enough of the noise and took it in. Even though it was only #6, they replaced all the AFM lifters. GM covered it under warranty *except* the oil filter. For whatever reason I got to pay for that. When I inquired about how often this happens, the techs all were in agreement that if you run it like you'd want to run the 6.2L, its likely to happen. Their belief is stepping on it while in V4, or WOT->V4 can cause things to get out of sync long enough for something to bind or bend. Their suggestion was to be more gentle in and out of V4, or disable V4 outright via a tune. I am going with option #3, different truck.

I have creaking too, just from the rears. If I am stopped, and apply more brake pedal, I can make it creak more. I thought it was just the passenger rear, so I pulled it apart, cleaned it all up, greased everything, but still does it. I am just counting the days until my Raptor makes it through the order process so I can get rid of this POS. Clunky transmission, noisy brakes, noisy suspension, and hot-ass rear seats in summer because of no vents, I've had enough.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/169848-3-coil-wireless-charger-install-in-2015-sierra-denali/?p=1580372

Take a look at this how-to thread I created http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/169848-3-coil-wireless-charger-install-in-2015-sierra-denali/.

I have a S7, and it charges fine in my truck.... ...because I installed my own 3-coil wireless charger under the mat.

It never hurts to ask the dealer if they will cover it or not. It shouldn't be expected to, as there's no warranty that the paint is road-debris resistant. That said, I totally agree with you that the paint on the bumper sucks. Its thin and its on a metal bumper, which has much less give than the paint on my '06 Tundra's front bumper. I had less than 10 chips in 10 years on my Tundra. I had 10 chips in the first two months on my Sierra.

My '15 also has issues with the passenger side. I cycle them a couple of times, and then it gets back in sync. I plan to bring it up to the dealership when I have to drop it off for the next thing that breaks in this truck. Its too much of a pain to drop it off and leave it there for just that, have them order a mirror, and then replace it.

Not sure how "grab end of cable, plug into phone, set phone in front tray" is easier than "drop phone flat on tray right next to arm". I've never had my S6 or S7 fly around in or out of the tray regardless of acceleration or deceleration.

Because they went with a cheap single coil charger, which dictates pad size. My 3-coil retrofit charger charges my S7 in its silicone case without issue.

This. It is what I did. I will likely never use it, as my trailer doesn't have brakes, but I didn't want the "empty" spot there to remind me I could have had it if I ended up having to get a trailer with brakes for some new toy to haul around. So the $200 was nothing on the $55K price. The only option I didn't order was the rear entertainment system. Would never use it, but then, it was $2000 instead of $200.

I drive dirt and limestone roads, so my frame looks the same. The dust sticks to the wax, but I've found a pressure wash will remove it. When I do the leaf springs and underside after getting back from the ranch, I hit the exposed frame as well. Just don't get too close.

Why wait? Requiring tires to wear in to road force balance is BS. Get them done by a good tire shop that's willing to take the time to find wheel and tire runout, set them, and balance them. Once I put a good set of Michelin tires on my truck by a shop that does quality balance work, its super smooth to drive even at our legal speeds of "posted 85mph +10 more".