repairman54

4 yr old battery could be weak. Just because it cranks up and fires up doesn't mean it's good. Whenever you start it all the onboard modules are booting up, low voltage during that phase will confuse modules and set wacky codes and warnings. Battery in top condition is critical in modern vehicles. Code scan and battery test are the 2 first diagnostic steps.

I don't like the mirror camera, I only use it when bed cover is fully up blocking the window with a tall load. I keep the rear headrests folded down when back seat is unoccupied.

Here's what I put in my '23 reverse lights when I got it new. Still in and zero issues, no codes, super bright. On Amazon. JDM ASTAR Super Bright Error Free 921 912 3035 Chips White LED Bulbs For Backup Reverse Lights

Some TC systems will turn themselves back on over 35 mph. Old jobs 2 WD Express vans would do that, a real pain trying to get a running start up a steep snowy driveway. I haven't tested my '23 Z71 yet to see if it does that.

I just gravity bleed, keeping the MC full at all times to avoid ABS pump issues. Mostly clean fluid is better than none in the system in my personal vehicles. Drove multiple year Express vans on my job taken to over 250k miles for years than never had a brake fluid change as fleets don't do that. They just replace calipers and bleed enough to get the caliper working again when needed.

Check braided frame ground strap on the pass. side underneath the front door for a poor connection. Especially if your in a salt zone. Common problem that makes the truck do wonky things.

I would suspect bad switch in the tailgate. Use your 3/36 warranty.

3k miles in a year, change it at least yearly. In fact a lot of the GM oil life monitors will go to zero life after a year. Only fuel additive I use is one with PEA in it to keep injectors clean. Real life story, my DIL '16 3.6 Equinox had erratic engine stuttering at highway speeds, nothing around town. About 110k miles on it. I told her to run 2 tanks of gas with Gumout all in one in it and the stuttering went away. No CEL or codes either. I've got her on the every oil change to toss a bottle in now. Who knows what brands of regular she is running in it. I only use fuel additives with PEA in my fleet, not sure if the GM one has it. Techron is good and the Gumout all in one is readily available and it does say PEA on the label.

25k miles now, zero issues with drivetrain. Online I read issues with the old 5.3 but it's the internet, you never hear success stories, only issues. I had no issues with the old 5.3 in my Tahoe over 150k miles yet the doom and gloom appeared all the time with cylinder deactivation. Quality synth. oils and proper maintenance are the key to longevity. 5% of anything made will have defects, the more made the higher numbers appear. I'm not worried about my 6.2. This tank is faster than my '68 GTO.

I went from an '11 5.3 Tahoe with tow package to my '23 6.2 Silverado. Better on fuel by 3-4 mpg and tons more power. Old 5.3 had lifter issues on some also. I had zero problems over 150k miles with the old truck with proper full synth. oil changes. Going to the 6.2 made the old 5.3 feel like it was a V6.

UPF63R only in my vehicles. I get mine from Rock Auto.

Turtle wax spray on ceramic is my go to on my fleet. Priced right and easy on / off and it lasts all winter.

Sides of tailgate do not have water seals so water will get in with the side blast of the car wash.

I would look up both on Rock Auto and see if part numbers are the same.

Blade missing in front of the horns is so horn sound is not reduced when shutters are closed. Most likely so DOT requirements are met for horn sound projection.

Inside the drivers door is a sticker with a QR code. Scan it with your phone and it will decode the RPO numbers. RPO codes are the trucks DNA. They will tell you what it was built with.

'23 6.2 at 23k miles now, no issues so far. Window sticker says engine : United States

Plus every time it gets extended parking the rotors rust in a different spot. Rotors rust more when not covered by the pads so uneven rusting occurs. Dealers even have to replace rotors on brand new vehicles when they sit on the lot for extended periods.

P2535 engine-codes.com is a good code resource. Possible Causes NOTE: The causes shown may not be a complete list of all potential problems, and it is possible that there may be other causes. Faulty Ignition On/Start Switch Ignition On/Start Switch harness is open or shorted Ignition On/Start Switch circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Body Control Module (BCM)

My Chevy has the mileage 25 to 450 average gauge and a drive cycle one. The drive view resets itself on every ignition cycle. My '23 6.2 averages 19-20 mpg at 60 mph. 23k miles on it now.

I have the speed sign in both my pickup and my '20 Traverse. I have the lesser Onstar plans in both of them so I have phone remote starting.

Rain sense is hit or miss in my '23 LTZ. Not impressed with it, I would prefer the old style manual control. I don't like it going to high automatically when I can get by with low speed or it's poor sensing in mist conditions. I usually have to turn it up to notch 3 in those conditions to sense some mist conditions. I also don't like the dry sweep on start up if I forget to turn it off.

No issues with my '23 LTZ w/tech package. I get weekly Google map updates also. No internet plan.

My '23 does that now and then. I think the Sirius signal is buffering during the start up. It buffers to minimize signal drop out from obstructions like trees, bridges, etc.

Open the front doors and look inside past the door hinges. You will see a sound deadening insulation pad that runs from top to bottom inside. Pull the bottom of the pad out, you will see the mess trapped inside the fender.