repairman54

Not me. Chance of bricking a very expensive module and voiding a warranty with aftermarket jewelry is not worth it IMO.

Full spectrum, all 4 code families is step one to see what the system is reporting since you have warning lights. Without a scan it's just a guess, at least the codes will help point the way.

In the drivers door jamb is a sticker with a QR code. Scan the code and it will tell you the RPO codes, RPO codes are the DNA of the truck.

How many people think their vehicles are boats? Just watch the news of floaters in underpasses not to mention crossing and driving on flooded roads and storm damage. You could bring back a '60's vehicle from flood damage, not anymore in the computerized world. Water damaged claims are totaled out vehicles. Somebody has to pick up the costs, which is everyone. Let's not even get into driving habits. They figure costs also by claims per model also. The data driven world has Ins. Co. knowing exactly what the claim costs per vehicle factors are, drives age, location, etc. I remember when engine size determined coverage prices back in the muscle car days. Big blocks meant big bucks back then.

I used the Permatex kit on my '11 Tahoe rear window. It did not last long as the window had power cords hanging from the tabs unlike fixed car windows I have done tab repairs on in the past. My final fix before having to change an expensive window was to hold the tab in pliers, heat it up good with molten soldier on it and stick it onto the glass hot. That lasted for a couple years until it traded it in.

What I have now. My '99 Yukon went 200k miles with normal wear parts like hubs and heater connectors. Never touched the motor, original trans also. Sold it running fine, had rust issues from salt on fluid lines. '11 Tahoe same thing, traded it in at 150k miles for my Silverado. All the Chevy's in my fleet have been solid over the years. All fluids serviced via the severe schedule.

Spot on. I just went through this on my '20 Traverse. Load test showed battery borderline weak. Tossed all kinds of crazy codes on a cold start up yet cranked up strong. One would expect more than a few years out of a big AGM battery but not today.

Most likely a problem with the vendor who makes the switch.

I'm not happy with the rain sense either. It's not enough wipes or too many depending on conditions, daylight, etc. Also wipers going to high speed vs low in some conditions. Windshield camera based and like any automated system it's not perfect for sure.

Do not trust the ''brake gauge''. Pull the wheels and look at the inside pads.

That "feature" is disabled on the ones that have it in my fleet. It is a junk feature, period. It is there to try to help prevent distracted driving. The biggest safety feature are the eyeballs behind the steering wheel. Adaptive cruise, auto braking and super cruise self steering just promotes watching TV or texting on your phone. Airline pilots don't put it on auto pilot and take naps.

Read what severe is, do you drive in town, hot weather, tow, etc ? There is no normal service. I change my trans fluid in my fleet every 30k miles. Multiple trans. taken over 250k miles and quite a few doing towing also. Fluid changes are cheap insurance if you're keeping it for the long haul. Severe schedule is your friend.

If you start it, drive it. Plugs will never get up to temperature idling to burn off rich start up deposits. You are doing more harm than good; oil never gets up to temp to cook out moisture just idling. Collector car guys will do a good 20 mile run to heat everything up if they crank a vehicle up.

My '23 LTZ has LED tail / brake lights but a normal incandescent reverse light bulb. I installed CAN bus LED's in it, no issues in 18k miles now.

Should see at least 12.5 - 12.6 volts on the dash. Really need to put a meter on battery for the most accurate reading.

Exhaust flapper maybe?

My '23 LTZ has the same headlights as the HC. Headlights in it are OK, but those fog lights are useless and one-piece assy. so no bulb upgrade.

Had a little ice stopping the drivers outside door handle from fully seating. Got in and inside handle would not work. Had to climb over and out the pass. door. If your old and tall like me it's no fun climbing over that giant console to get out the other door. I now check the handle when it's snowy out before getting in. I initially thought the latch froze up.

CAN bus LED's in my '23 since the spring. Zero issues and plenty bright. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRGU91Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On my '23 if the fog lights are turned on the auto high beams are disabled.

Glove box manual is not complete. It only covers a few things on operation. Full one is available online at MyChevrolet.com. Ran into this on my '23.

Odessey batteries are my go-to for replacements. Pricey but they last. 10 yr. old one in my Harley and still strong. Put one in my standby generator also as I got tired of other brands only lasting 3 yrs. It's in there for 5 yrs now. Put one in my old '11 Tahoe, still good after 5 yrs, traded it in for my Silverado so I don't know how long that one will last.

Today's batteries are all made with recycled lead. Only a few are made without recycled lead. That's one of the reasons for poor battery life. That and the manufacturer also.

Power boards would freeze up all the time in winter on my old '11 Tahoe LTZ. Factory boards also. IMO it's a southern option not north country. Board motors trip out on overload and or auto reverse if they are obstructed. Tri-Flow lubricant was the only thing that kept my boards working freely year-round also.

Paper manual in glove box is weak. At least it is with my '23. Go online to mychevrolet and view the complete manual as the paper one only glosses over features and procedures.