Grumpy Bear

Did they tell you that it's the converter killing the transmission and not the transmission failing? https://floridatorqueconverters.com/Torque-Converter-77-JMBXTSD.html https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/845-6l80-6l90-transmission-tech-advisory-consider-an-updated-converter-in-your-next-rebuild https://www.sonnax.com/parts/5187-jmbx-performance-converter-kit

Line-X

I'm guessing you mean, "How many miles until yours failed"? In case you just asking how many we have on ours..... I'm at 186,000 and still doing well.

If that's what's making you late it ain't the guy ahead of you.

Simple Sides Corn and Roasted Red Pepper As usual the better the ingredient the better the result but his can make canned corn pretty good lickings. Can of drained canned corn in a saucepan. Add a third of that volume of diced roasted red pepper. I buy the whole jarred ones. Cover with chicken stock and season to taste. Adds a ton of flavor. Heat through and serve well drained. Mashed Potatoes and Carrots A pound of Russet Potatoes in a 1" dice. Peeled and rinsed. A pound of peeled cut carrots. cut into 1/4 " dimes. Boil is salted water adding the potatoes about 5 minutes after the carrots. They need a head start. Boil time is about 15 to 20 minutes. I use and electric mixer/beaters in the pan. 1/2 a cup of the potato water 2 Pats of butter Season to taste, salt and pepper. Half and half until you get the consistency you like. Everyone can boil water and peel a veggie, right?

https://www.engineangel.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/SE-OIL-04.pdf If you get nothing more from this one note the effect DEPSOITS have on consumption and wear. And as we know most BOX STORE oils have little to no solvency and as such, at best, SLOW the rate of deposit formation. SHORT OCI's or moves to polar oils are HUGE hedges as does use of clean fuels.

Don't remember where I heard this but a quote of sorts. "Parenting is the process of letting go". Ultimately this is true no matter how we do it. Most children will outlive us. That is the hope, right? The ultimate letting go. We care for them when they can't care for themselves. They might reciprocate. If we can, we leave them a bit of something material when we are gone. But we will leave them something regardless of what may be available materially and we only get so much time to do it. Our imprint. The one we put on them as children. Yes, we are created 'free moral agents' and can choose to ignore or misuse or apply that imprint but imprint it will. Just like the color of their shining little eyes. Once on their own I am compelled to be responsible TO them but no longer FOR them. I can chose other, yes and often do but keeping the head right keeps the decisions proper and moral. IMHO anyway. I'm no shrink or therapist. Got a drawer full of those I broke

Dad had a rule that if you found yourself in jail for something you did not do, he'd say, "Make me your first call. If you did it, don't waste the dime." That man gave us every tool we needed before we were 15 to survive and he expected us all to use them. Point being training, intention and circumstances are indeed meaningful. Ditto helping out those old enough to be on their own that are not otherwise handy capped. Mental or physical. Stupidity and lazy isn't a handy cap. Keep jumping into the deep end and I'll let ya sink. Steal from me and we are done. Yep even kids. If it is indeed just a matter of 'time and unforeseen circumstances' I don't have a issue helping right the ship but it comes with a repayment plan. It isn't a handout. Doesn't matter if they can never make good on it due to continued verifiable "beyond their control' circumstance. Let's them 'save face', retain their self esteem and keeps pick pockets out of mine. I had a rascal or two. After the first go, they may come with hat in hand but in the other is a written executable game plan. All have repaid and none have dipped that well a second time. Good kids one and all.

186,000 and still on original brakes. If your rotors are blue in 15K it ain't the brakes.

https://www.mdpi.com/2075-4442/6/3/73#table_body_display_lubricants-06-00073-t001 Quote [Specifically, for this paper, we are examining the difference between a high quality Group III mineral oil and PAOs in regards to friction in a passenger car engine oil. Furthermore, this reduction in friction will be evaluated relative to potential energy efficiency improvements.] Close quote. This the last sentence of the first paragraph of the Introduction. Note that for this paper wear is not a consideration nor was it even measured and kiddo's wear and friction are NOT interchangeable. Not any more the viscosity and lubricity are. What this entire test is measuring is DIFFERENCES in fluid LUBRICITY and there is a difference even though all three fully formulated oils are the SAME VISCOSITY. Got the cap on? Good. Can a motor last forever. No. Okay so life is finite. Can we influence the length of finite? Absolutely. First tool of choice for a tribo guy is, "It was designed for a X cP fluid" and that is what you should run in it. Okay. I'll bite. At what temperature? Under what shear rate? and if you can answer that then you should be able to tell me for how long and what he can't tell you is anything useful. "70% if wear happens during start up", he says. Okay. How many starts per thousand miles and how long between starts. Yea...he doesn't know because we all use our vehicles differently. Mom uses hers three times a week. Twice to church 10 miles away for a 2 hour service and once to the store for grocery and the beauty parlor inside. Average oil temperature 130 F with one cold start for half those starts and one warm start for the other. Dad's in sales and has a huge district. He never turns the key for under 100 miles and often as long as 500 miles. About a tenth of the starts and average oil temperature is 212 F. Uncle hauls heavy and fast and spends the day doing it. He fills three times a day and the motor spins 4,000 rpm all day. Bulk oil temp is 245 F. OEM call out is 0W20 for all of them but only one of them is even close to a pan viscosity of a 0W20. MOST newer books don't even make a distinction for service harshness for service intervals. Okay, unless you own a supercar with track day requirements and yea, what are those based on? Right. Heat, rpm and load increases. But yea, even though the OEM call out is for a MINIMUM HTHS value lets ignore the service and the goals of the OWNER and GM is NOT the owner. So, full circle. How long? Well, if I'm the OEM the shortly past the warranty period and perhaps a shade longer if my reputation matters to me whatsoever. If I'm the owner however,.......

What we get out of a document is less about what is said and more about HOW it is said. Sometimes what is eluded to but left out. What is 'dropped' sans context. Poly-tish'ns do it all the time. They call it SPIN. I call it lying. I guess in a round about way the OEM's do specify more than an SAE Grade. GM in example calls out say a 5W30 Dexox1Gen3 which is a " minimum spec" 2.9 cP oil with a 0.9% ash content. Porsche calls out a 5W30 C-30 oil which has a "minimum spec" of 3.5 cP and a maximum 1.5% ash. Both are 5W30's and you can run the C-30 oil in the GM BY THIER SPEC without warranty issues but not the Dexos1Gen3 oil in the Porsche. Yes there are plenty of C-30 oils under 0.9% ash. What does it tell you? GM (USA), Porsche (Europe)

BS on steroids Just read a paper on HTHS vs Wear and could not believe the amount of double talk going on in such a paper. Run down then. Pull an oil off the self by HTHS WITHOUT knowing anything but the number and you will find that wear is all over the map vs HTHS and so the paper concludes. Some *w20 can have better wear than some *W30's. OMG are you kidding me. Because? Not all VM's are the same. Not al VM treat rates are the same and as such not all stressed viscosities are the same even for the same grade. Paper also states that straight weigh monograde HTHS correlation to wear is pretty straight forward. Imagine that! Much discussion on VM TYPE and AMOUNT. No kidding. But OEM recommendations are not given on HTHS or HTHSV values. They are given in API Grade. A clue for the clueless. You can have a GF-6 5W30 oil that uses a OCP polymer with a stellar cold flow thus a very low base oil viscosity and thus a huge amount of polymer that under stress is <2.6 cP at 150 C under HTHSV conditions. You can also have a 5W30 non-GF-6 oil with a less stellar CCV but STILL IN SPEC thus a higher viscosity base and thus less polymer of a 0-5 SSI Star configuration and have an oil that under those same conditions will execute 3.7 cP! So you can by 5W30's that in the 'real world' behave like SAE grades between 0W16 and SAE30 and all meet the SAE 5W30 requirements. Same it true for 0W20 oils with a one grade SAE call out. There is so much focus on cold start and fuel economy that wear gets lost in the weeds. Cold start is absolutely a concern. IF YOU ARE A SHORT TIPPER whose oil never gets up to temp. 0.5% to 4.0% increase in fuel economy can span a 30% range in wear. There is an absolute PUSH to keep the water turbid and fear high and knowledge suppressed and more than a few actual oil experts are falling prey to the shear volume of

266,000 Mile Service 12/28/2024 1,000 mile OCI and use a bit more than a quart. Front seal is leaking worse and I expect the extra usage is that judging by the underside. Some white snot. Installed larger vent orifice. Short hopping in cold weather isn't helping but what I trust it to do. 5 Quarts Super Tech Conventional 5W30 1 Purolator L15436. Had about 4 on it.

Neighbors had a gas powered Maytag. The Mrs. sent her young old son out to shut it off and it kept biting him so he goes to his grandfather sitting on the front porch for some advice. Grandad doesn't hear to well and Bruce did his best to explain but all Grandad heard was muley whining so annoyed he says to the boy, "Ah p*ss on it". He did as instructed.

Standing in a Burning House Lot's of people are doing this. Standing in the living room. Looking out the picture window at a guy waving his arms and yelling, "Your house is on fire", holding a cuppa joe and laughing shouting to the wife, "You see this nut case out here?" Romans 1:19,20 makes this observation about humans, "......what may be known about God is clearly evident among them, for God made it clear to them. For his invisible qualities are clearly seen from the world’s creation onward, because they are perceived by the things made, even his eternal power and Godship, so that they are inexcusable."

I'd hoped this would have gotten more traction. Model A is an interest of mine as it was my fathers and my grandfathers first cars. Also David Granquist of Red Line. An owner and tourer. As well as a dozen others I knew from clubs and just growing up. This motor had a spec oil of SAE40 summer and SAE20 winter with an OCI of 500 book miles per Ford. Oil was, well....different then. Straight cuts solvent dewaxed. What we call Group II didn't exist. It has zero additives. A true "Conventional" mineral oil. These motors hadn't any air filters nor oil filters. Oil was pumped to a trough and splashed/dripped and whipped. On a rural dirt road this was good for as little engine life as 8K miles. By the time dad bough his they had been around a few years and he's no dummy. He fitted his with an air filter, changed oil like life depended on it every 500 miles as did many others that were now seeing 40-60K miles from these same no frills, no additive SAE 40 oils. If a guy fit a filter to one he could see 80K without much more effort. Today allot of guys use 10W30 or SAE 30 in them and get less life now than they did by the 1940's. Full of additives and using much more refined oils that we call Group II and Group III. Those that use SAE 10W40 are well over 100K between rebuilds and a few fellas using 20W50 breaking 150K. So...let that sink in a minute. I can get 80K miles from a 100 year old mechanical technology using a SAE40 SA additive free Group I/II oil and get the same miles to ring failure as todays best tech and factory spec GF-6 0W20 oils?

I don't live in the land of Porsche or Bentley with exotic plating's on both bore and ring. I live in the world of experimental GM DLH ring coatings on ultra thin very low tension rings and in iron bores still plateau honed. That world is sued silly for power cylinder FAILURES of seal. It's asperity height is the same today as it was 50 years ago AFTER the break in. Plateau honing gets it sealed quicker to the same roughness. The very fact that they seal almost universally to about 80K miles then fail in concert SCREAMS oil issues. Ring coking. Plating failure. Extreme wear rates. Take you pick but thinner isn't the answer. Less of what made it work is not the answer. Elves living is stumps isn't the answer either. The LV1/LV3 and the V8's of the Ecotech3 series motor use the same ring type in the same bore type and prep. They live in the same world driven by the same Joe Average. They have the same power density +/-. They have the same TSBs on oil consumption. Yet the LV1/LV3 motors have a fraction of the RING/BORE failure rates the V8's do. They use the same cam materials and use the same part number lifters with a VLOM made from the same parts sans the casting. they also have a fraction of the cam/lifter issues. FRACTION. The difference is? The oil GRADE specified.

Ridiculous as used is an opinion. You are welcome to yours. Blind belief in a product that when used has gotten every manufacture in the USA sued...that's ridiculous. Oil consumption class actions speak against such silly thinking. Just no one is listening. But hey...you do you.

That there is something new under the sun? That part? Asperity height is the unmovable object in the way of less vicious oils. I ran some Honda's a quarter million with 5W20 oils. Just not any that were under a W30 HTHS 150 C value. Not even after KRL. These GF-6A oils are the polar opposite of this: Red Line HP 5W20 Valvoline 0W20 GF-6A This second oil is 2.7 for a hot second and a 8.4 at 100 C until stressed. The SSI is awful. GF-6B oils... And again, you can't SAY at thing true.

How many ways can you indirectly define viscosity? True and obvious. Your saying 0W16 or W20 is enough and I'm saying Not what WEAR STUDIES indicate. GM, University, SAE or Military. Problem has been here that humanity NEEDS a thing to be true that can never be true. Humanity needs a different set of physical laws to control the universe they can't have, and they can't make a thing true by regulating it, wishing it or saying it's so. What they can do it market it until you get one hundred monkeys to believe it, get the world to follow and suffer the consequences that sort of stupidity delivers every time.

Remember how Castrol changed the legal meaning of SYNTHETIC? Marketing has changed the meaning of FILM STENGTH and of LUBRICITY. I am not buying any of the three new definitions. Ya all want to start calling red the new blue then have at. But for me, words mean what the words mean. FILM STENGTH is FILM THICKNESS period. Here's a little tick used in marketing. cSt viscosity is in consideration of density but Hersey values are in absolute cP. As Esters of the same cSt have different densities than mineral oils their cP is higher which at the same load and veloicity creates a thicker film. Viscosity is the internal resistance. How it reacts to ITSELF. Lubricity is how it act with the surfaces it lubricates. I've shown this several times in finding fluids that are the same viscosity and vastly different lubricity. Things like oyster snot and fried okra. Chick fat. Whale oil was once used to add lubricity. Esters do this like whale oil does it. A non solid, non metallic polar bond that facilitates planar shear at the boundary between the ester and the PAO or Mineral oil. Moly, Graphene and ZDDP ZDDT are SOLID LUBRICANTS or artificial Boundary layers. Mini ball bearings or glass hard surface deposits. The Stribeck curve and the HERSEY numbers are generated on viscosity alone. The Y axis on asperity height. HINT: WEAR IS UNAVOIDABLE. But kids there are enough published studies that show an SAE 20's wear is about 30% higher than a SAE30. Insisting it isn't so is irrational. You can't stop it. But you can slow it down a bunch. VISCOCITY is the FIRST Tool in that box. The chemicals are there for those times the film thickness gets below the asperity height. If it could be done with chemicals alone oil would be a thing of the past. We would just use solid coatings. Nothing built today will last very long on oils without BOTH viscosity and the AW/EP chemistries added to them but you cannot substitute one for the other and get as good a result and using them together. Don't be absurd. Load and speed are the very definition of cylinder pressure and rpm. Mitsubishi Mirage.com 2.5 MILLION MILES of fuel logs. You will find in the "view detailed logs' section that those using 0W20 are getting 10 mpg less average economy that Raven is on 5W40. 20%. Those using 5W30 fall in between. Put on your Sherlock deer stocker the argue the data. The average is 2 mpg below the EPA values while Raven is 8 mpg over. Don't kid yourself there are tons of 'hyper-milers' on that site. It's sort of what the vehicle is about isn't it. You bored with what I write? Then don't read it. No one is putting a gun to your head. But you whiners that are hijacking a thread? Go start your own.

Fact or Truth? FACT is Frank is ignorant of Newtons second law of motion, F=MA, and what it means to two motor vehicles the meet head on and as such thinks speed limits and passing zones are stupid. He drives a large truck with the latest safety features which he in FACT believes will deliver him alive and whole. Truth Frank and five others are dead. There are alternate facts. There is no alternate truth. Learn the difference.

Cerakote https://www.walmart.com/ip/CERAKOTE-Ceramic-Trim-Coat-Plastic-Trim-Restorer-Maximum-Strength-Lasts-200-Washes/960699998 Did Peppers grill and front valence with this product about five years ago. Looks like I did it yesterday. Amazing stuff.

15 and 1 and I'm uneasy. Too many silly penalties. Time to get healthy and focused. PS. Can we get a Texans win please?

186,000 on the 2015. About ready to replace my first battery.