OnTheReel

Pssshhhh no. They don’t even replace them when they are cracked and leaking.

Short version: Dynamat-ed both doors, drastically reduced rattle, but some remained without the sub. The worse part was the distortion from the door speakers, they were simply asked to be doing too much. Installed sub with bass knob, all dip switches up. Allowed me to flatten the head unit EQ and eliminated remaining rattles (and the heads up display shake which was also annoying). However it was clear that there was more left in the tank. After modding the knob I think I have this system perfect. I’ve been running the modded knob at full (so 40k resistance) with all types of music. In classic rock (mostly what I listen to) it sounds amazing, door speakers are now crystal clear, even at 100% volume (which is uncomfortably loud). Sub lets you feel the bass drum kick and the whole setup just plain rocks. In rap music that sub really, really cranks. In the name of science, I have also purchased two other inexpensive bass knobs from Amazon that use the same 3.5mm connector. I want to measure what resistance they operate in. Perhaps there is an off the shelf knob we can use unaltered to get a larger sweep. Because the downside to my mod at the moment is that it cannot be turned down below what was the previous maximum. You could use a smaller resistor but then the top end is not as high. Replacing the pot altogether is another option, but also not as DIY friendly. If there is a better knob to be used, that would be great. In the meantime I’m happy with what I’ve done. Why Kicker sells a knob that seems to throttle the system so much, I don’t understand....

Yeah, the Bose sub must be all of 4”. I guess short of redoing the whole system this was probably the best option. Anyway, think I finally got this thing cracked. Anyone who has tried it without the knob knows that the knob is both a bass killer, but it also makes the thing usable. So I’ve hacked it. The knob is is just a 20k potentiometer with a 500 ohm resistor that forms the base resistance of the circuit. The pot increases resistance from there, up to a maximum of roughly 20.5k ohms (20k pot plus the .5k resistor). So again, at the low bass setting, the amp reads a resistance of 500 ohms from the aux cable, and at max bass 20.5k. Keeping this in mind, I had an idea. Using some little 10k resistors I had lying around in the parts bin, I formed a test. I removed the stock 500 ohm base resistor and replaced it with a 10k resistor. This effectively makes the baseline (knob all the way down) resistance 10k. That 10k measure on a stock knob is about midway. But the big thing was that the max was now up to 30k instead of 20. And in the new max position, sure enough, the amp gain increased beyond what the original max would have been with the unaltered knob. Taking it a step further, I soldered TWO 10k resistors in series and brought the baseline to 20k. Keep in mind that used to be roughly the max the amp would see from the knob, and now it is the minimum. So with the knob all the way down, it behaves as it did with the knob all the way up previously. And beyond that, the ceiling is now 40k. With this setting, I was able to reduce the bass on the head unit further and still really get some major production out of the sub. I downloaded an sound app to confirm that the amp was reading and responding to the new range from the modded knob. But of course the difference was also easy to hear. Attached are screen shots of the same part of the same song, same volume, same test location, same head unit EQ. Nothing too scientific but something to look at. One is taken at the low end on the modded knob (equivalent to the max of the stock knob) and the other at the new high of 40k, or double what the old one would have been. Measures about a 10db difference right near the sub.

Put mine in yesterday, also bought from shopchevyparts. I’d like to shake the hand of the guy who said they installed it in an hour. I was in it for about 2 hours and sweating like a pig. Could have shaved 5 minutes off if I had a deep well 10mm socket to get the jack out and back in. You know how 10mm sockets disappear. Had to use a wrench. Wiring was fine. I actually had the yellow and yellow/ black wires the book called for so that was good. My brain might call for me pulling that kick panel off again to replace the tee taps with soldered connections but for now it’s fine. Sound wise, it’s okay. I got the little knob thingy and have played around with the setup for a few nights now. First, I can’t see how anyone would use it without the knob because when I tried it with the knob unplugged, the thing was just as obnoxious as could be. What’s worse, the noise cancellation was pumping engine sounds through the sub at full gain! Sounded outrageous and I thought my exhaust sprang a leak. With the knob there’s none of that, but it doesn’t seem to really hit very hard at anything under half volume. The knob at max is nowhere near full gain without the knob, so it seems. Obviously I don’t want 100% but a little more would be nice... It came with #1 dip switch up, 2&3 down, 4,5,6 up. I put all 6 up to get a little more sound out of it, but as of now I can say I’m not really blown away with this thing. It’s better than nothing at giving the door speakers a little break, but it’s not exactly what I hoped for. Now debating if I should try some bass blockers in the doors so I can turn the bass up on the head unit’s EQ. Right now running the EQ flat. Not sure how to find the sweet spot on this deal.

Yes, it will leak when sitting. However, if the truck is brand new, the window probably won’t leak yet. Most of us didn’t have the problem until we put some miles on the trucks. Mine was around 7k miles in. So not leaking on the dealer lot doesn’t mean anything really.

There is a non-Bose IOS system in the LT w/ Convenience Package II. That is also the standard system in LTZ w/o Bose.

The front seats are pretty damn stiff too. My driver’s side has broken in nicely, but when I sit in the passenger seat I am surprised at how firm it is in comparison, having not been sat in nearly as much. I rarely have adults back there, but it does seem a little foolish of GM to add heated back seats, more head and legroom, a flatter floor...but then design such underwhelming back seats!

Dealer said they couldn’t just drop the back of my headliner, wasn’t enough room to work without creasing it. So they took the whole thing down. Take that for what it is.

There’s only two versions of the back seat, and since you have the storage in yours, you have the fancier one. Leather, cloth, Denali...don’t matter, all the same underneath.

The smaller diameter doesn't bug me, but I feel like my K2 had a thicker rim. Don't miss the weird offset, but do miss the feel of that wheel.

If he didn't, it's gonna be a real short and embarrassing appointment at the dealer...?

I had one for my gasser with the capless system. To me it was cheap insurance. But everyone says that there is a second filler tube door down further, and a trap so virtually no water can be pushed down into the tank. Not sure about that but I stopped using the cap out of laziness alone.

Yeah I dunno...makes no sense at all. I mean, we have the same exact truck, just in different colors. Was yours made in MX or US? Maybe that’s the reason? Mines an early build US model.

Your’s both are in the wrong place. ?

I know it’s fun to be the headlight police on this forum, but Diode Dynamics does make LED bulbs that are designed to work in halogen housings without scattering light and glare everywhere. Maybe he paid a little more, got the good stuff and aimed ‘em correctly. Or maybe he didn’t and is blinding people. I personally don’t care either way. https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-bulbs/sl1-led-headlight.html

The lights on the front don’t come on when you unlock. They only come on with the switch on the dash, and only in park. They are actually pretty much useless. There are puddle lights that shine the ground when you unlock or get out, but that’s it. Anything needing a BCM reflash, like the folding mirrors...usually a dead end...but good luck.

The lights on the front of the mirrors aren’t turn signals, they are spot lights. Only the gigantic towing mirrors have turn signals in them. Haven’t seen anyone do what you’re attempting but can 100% guarantee it ain’t plug and play because nothing is on these trucks. Adding options after the fact is never easy and sometimes impossible.

Yeah, I’m mainly happy to have gotten rid of the buzzing door panel, but you may be surprised at the overall result. I know I am.

Put the silver bed rail inlay on. I like how it matches the 4x4 logo color...it’s the little things...

There may be other reasons, but as far as I know, max trailering package trucks don’t get shutters. Mine doesn’t have them.

That’s great you are going to measure the difference...will be nice to see it on paper. Think you’ll be just fine putting minimal, if any material on the door skin. I guess I pictured that the door would be flimsy, rattle-y aluminum but that’s just not the case. It’s all very sturdy feeling on the skin side. And then the inner door has a lot of rolled edges, dimples, ribs, etc. I really think the main thing letting it down was the vapor barrier flapping in the breeze down there.

Had some down time today and did the driver’s side...holy cow...what a difference! I seriously picked up so much bass I turned it down from 10 on the EQ to 6...it was too much on Hits 1 station! Rattling is about 90% gone, nothing like before. And the door closes with more of a thud too! Pulling the panel off, I noticed the door is actually surprisingly well dampened. There are a few side impact bars that run through the door and the door skin is foamed onto the bars. Everything felt really tight and made a solid thud when I tapped it, not tinny sounding. The main shortcoming I noticed was the vapor barrier. It’s an “acoustic“ type foam, but it was adhered very loosely and is thinly constructed. Tapping the speaker cone induced some rattles because the center of the barrier was not glued to the support bars going across the opening in the door. This would most definitely make some noise and kill some bass. Somewhat of a plan in hand, I started sticking Dynamat on the back of the door panel for starters, focusing on the armrest area that rattled a lot on mine. But also put strips anywhere that sounded plasticy when I tapped it. All told, added about 1 pound of Dynamat to the panel. To wrap it up, I removed all of the push pin clips that hold the panel to the door. I put a small piece of Tesa tape where the clip slides in, slit it, and put the clip back. That takes up any slack in between the clip and the panel. Then I put the factory white pillow sound deadener back over top and the panel was done. On the door itself, I pulled the speaker, put some Dynamat behind it and some behind the vapor barrier. Didn’t go overboard because I have a limited amount of Dynamat, and didn’t feel like it needed much. Wrapped the clip and tongue of the speaker module in Tesa tape and threw it back in. Next, I glued the vapor barrier correctly (paying attention to the braces that weren’t glued to it before). Then I just put Dynamat over the barrier to beef it up. I didn’t overlap to the door, so the vapor barrier can be removed for service as easy as if it were factory stock. I forgot to take pics but still have one door to go. I am betting this made the biggest difference. Now, I know a pro would ditch the barrier and go over the whole door, but that was not practical for me to do, especially if the window motor craps out! After slapping the Dynamat on, the barrier sounded like wood when you tap it, so I think it’s doing the job great now! Very sturdy. To re-assemble, I snapped the door panel back on carefully. I also applied Tesa tape around all of the clips holding the fake wood trim piece on, as well as a few wraps where it’s tongue slides into the arm rest. All told, took about an hour and a half, just putzing around and engineering things as I went. This is my materials list thus far. Fabric tape: Tesa 51608, 25m x 19mm adhesive wiring cloth tape original ISOBAND 3 pcs pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XPDVER2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wT2o1Qb52Dd1E Tape for vapor barrier: Yunpo Butyl Sealant Tape 4M/13Ft Waterproof Butyl Rubber Sealant for Car Headlamps Window Door Windshield Butyl Tape Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRXRF9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pvdzEb56GKEMZ Dynamat: Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020CAUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1XdzEbSRG0BRQ Not listed are trim removal tools, 7mm socket, wife’s wallpaper roller, etc. Overall, bang for the buck here is just awesome. I was really, really surprised.

My truck has been absolutely flawless throughout fall and winter. I’ve had some problems for sure...but now that recalls, rattles and leaks are taken care of, I really am digging this truck again. And I trust it just fine in spite of what you read here. I’ve been on automotive forums since their heyday in the mid 2000s. In that time...I haven’t seen anyone join a forum just to praise their vehicle, but at least one a week joins strictly to complain. I don’t care to look back through the 6 page thread but I’m sure there’s a few in here who never post unless something goes wrong.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/next-gen-silverado-1500/electronics-c-26_4692_4729_4743.html Two are DSP with amp for non-Bose. RPO IOS (mid-level infotainment): 19417166 RPO IOR (base model): 19417165 Sub-only for any system: 19417164

GM coming clean ain’t ever gonna happen. Design changes usually happen pretty quietly, and I wouldn’t expect anything different here apart from maybe an updated TSB. I had thought about doing some “destination truck buying“ like Everrett or Laura...but doing so would have made every problem with this truck a million times worse. Thankfully I bought local. And thus have somewhat of a leg to stand on in their service department after spending 6 figures at their dealer recently. People underestimate the value of that when they only shop the cheapest price. I wonder how many bad experiences in this thread are attributed to service by a non-purchasing dealer. I know it’s not what GM wants, but one has to imagine if the dealer doesn’t view you as a potential future customer, they might be inclined to screw you around, not give a loaner, and / or do shoddier work.