OnTheReel

Yes, it will leak when sitting. However, if the truck is brand new, the window probably won’t leak yet. Most of us didn’t have the problem until we put some miles on the trucks. Mine was around 7k miles in. So not leaking on the dealer lot doesn’t mean anything really.

There is a non-Bose IOS system in the LT w/ Convenience Package II. That is also the standard system in LTZ w/o Bose.

The front seats are pretty damn stiff too. My driver’s side has broken in nicely, but when I sit in the passenger seat I am surprised at how firm it is in comparison, having not been sat in nearly as much. I rarely have adults back there, but it does seem a little foolish of GM to add heated back seats, more head and legroom, a flatter floor...but then design such underwhelming back seats!

Dealer said they couldn’t just drop the back of my headliner, wasn’t enough room to work without creasing it. So they took the whole thing down. Take that for what it is.

There’s only two versions of the back seat, and since you have the storage in yours, you have the fancier one. Leather, cloth, Denali...don’t matter, all the same underneath.

The smaller diameter doesn't bug me, but I feel like my K2 had a thicker rim. Don't miss the weird offset, but do miss the feel of that wheel.

If he didn't, it's gonna be a real short and embarrassing appointment at the dealer...?

I had one for my gasser with the capless system. To me it was cheap insurance. But everyone says that there is a second filler tube door down further, and a trap so virtually no water can be pushed down into the tank. Not sure about that but I stopped using the cap out of laziness alone.

Yeah I dunno...makes no sense at all. I mean, we have the same exact truck, just in different colors. Was yours made in MX or US? Maybe that’s the reason? Mines an early build US model.

Your’s both are in the wrong place. ?

I know it’s fun to be the headlight police on this forum, but Diode Dynamics does make LED bulbs that are designed to work in halogen housings without scattering light and glare everywhere. Maybe he paid a little more, got the good stuff and aimed ‘em correctly. Or maybe he didn’t and is blinding people. I personally don’t care either way. https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-bulbs/sl1-led-headlight.html

The lights on the front don’t come on when you unlock. They only come on with the switch on the dash, and only in park. They are actually pretty much useless. There are puddle lights that shine the ground when you unlock or get out, but that’s it. Anything needing a BCM reflash, like the folding mirrors...usually a dead end...but good luck.

The lights on the front of the mirrors aren’t turn signals, they are spot lights. Only the gigantic towing mirrors have turn signals in them. Haven’t seen anyone do what you’re attempting but can 100% guarantee it ain’t plug and play because nothing is on these trucks. Adding options after the fact is never easy and sometimes impossible.

Yeah, I’m mainly happy to have gotten rid of the buzzing door panel, but you may be surprised at the overall result. I know I am.

Put the silver bed rail inlay on. I like how it matches the 4x4 logo color...it’s the little things...

There may be other reasons, but as far as I know, max trailering package trucks don’t get shutters. Mine doesn’t have them.

That’s great you are going to measure the difference...will be nice to see it on paper. Think you’ll be just fine putting minimal, if any material on the door skin. I guess I pictured that the door would be flimsy, rattle-y aluminum but that’s just not the case. It’s all very sturdy feeling on the skin side. And then the inner door has a lot of rolled edges, dimples, ribs, etc. I really think the main thing letting it down was the vapor barrier flapping in the breeze down there.

Had some down time today and did the driver’s side...holy cow...what a difference! I seriously picked up so much bass I turned it down from 10 on the EQ to 6...it was too much on Hits 1 station! Rattling is about 90% gone, nothing like before. And the door closes with more of a thud too! Pulling the panel off, I noticed the door is actually surprisingly well dampened. There are a few side impact bars that run through the door and the door skin is foamed onto the bars. Everything felt really tight and made a solid thud when I tapped it, not tinny sounding. The main shortcoming I noticed was the vapor barrier. It’s an “acoustic“ type foam, but it was adhered very loosely and is thinly constructed. Tapping the speaker cone induced some rattles because the center of the barrier was not glued to the support bars going across the opening in the door. This would most definitely make some noise and kill some bass. Somewhat of a plan in hand, I started sticking Dynamat on the back of the door panel for starters, focusing on the armrest area that rattled a lot on mine. But also put strips anywhere that sounded plasticy when I tapped it. All told, added about 1 pound of Dynamat to the panel. To wrap it up, I removed all of the push pin clips that hold the panel to the door. I put a small piece of Tesa tape where the clip slides in, slit it, and put the clip back. That takes up any slack in between the clip and the panel. Then I put the factory white pillow sound deadener back over top and the panel was done. On the door itself, I pulled the speaker, put some Dynamat behind it and some behind the vapor barrier. Didn’t go overboard because I have a limited amount of Dynamat, and didn’t feel like it needed much. Wrapped the clip and tongue of the speaker module in Tesa tape and threw it back in. Next, I glued the vapor barrier correctly (paying attention to the braces that weren’t glued to it before). Then I just put Dynamat over the barrier to beef it up. I didn’t overlap to the door, so the vapor barrier can be removed for service as easy as if it were factory stock. I forgot to take pics but still have one door to go. I am betting this made the biggest difference. Now, I know a pro would ditch the barrier and go over the whole door, but that was not practical for me to do, especially if the window motor craps out! After slapping the Dynamat on, the barrier sounded like wood when you tap it, so I think it’s doing the job great now! Very sturdy. To re-assemble, I snapped the door panel back on carefully. I also applied Tesa tape around all of the clips holding the fake wood trim piece on, as well as a few wraps where it’s tongue slides into the arm rest. All told, took about an hour and a half, just putzing around and engineering things as I went. This is my materials list thus far. Fabric tape: Tesa 51608, 25m x 19mm adhesive wiring cloth tape original ISOBAND 3 pcs pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XPDVER2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wT2o1Qb52Dd1E Tape for vapor barrier: Yunpo Butyl Sealant Tape 4M/13Ft Waterproof Butyl Rubber Sealant for Car Headlamps Window Door Windshield Butyl Tape Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRXRF9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pvdzEb56GKEMZ Dynamat: Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020CAUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1XdzEbSRG0BRQ Not listed are trim removal tools, 7mm socket, wife’s wallpaper roller, etc. Overall, bang for the buck here is just awesome. I was really, really surprised.

My truck has been absolutely flawless throughout fall and winter. I’ve had some problems for sure...but now that recalls, rattles and leaks are taken care of, I really am digging this truck again. And I trust it just fine in spite of what you read here. I’ve been on automotive forums since their heyday in the mid 2000s. In that time...I haven’t seen anyone join a forum just to praise their vehicle, but at least one a week joins strictly to complain. I don’t care to look back through the 6 page thread but I’m sure there’s a few in here who never post unless something goes wrong.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/next-gen-silverado-1500/electronics-c-26_4692_4729_4743.html Two are DSP with amp for non-Bose. RPO IOS (mid-level infotainment): 19417166 RPO IOR (base model): 19417165 Sub-only for any system: 19417164

GM coming clean ain’t ever gonna happen. Design changes usually happen pretty quietly, and I wouldn’t expect anything different here apart from maybe an updated TSB. I had thought about doing some “destination truck buying“ like Everrett or Laura...but doing so would have made every problem with this truck a million times worse. Thankfully I bought local. And thus have somewhat of a leg to stand on in their service department after spending 6 figures at their dealer recently. People underestimate the value of that when they only shop the cheapest price. I wonder how many bad experiences in this thread are attributed to service by a non-purchasing dealer. I know it’s not what GM wants, but one has to imagine if the dealer doesn’t view you as a potential future customer, they might be inclined to screw you around, not give a loaner, and / or do shoddier work.

Put on my Denali take-offs, and found a patch of sun on the way home to snap a pic. Since GM doesn’t make polished center caps with a black bowtie, I went with the brushed finish ones from the RSTs. It’s kinda funny, on the Denali they use what looks to be a chrome GMC center cap. So I bought and tried the chrome bowtie caps, but they didn’t look quite right and this is where I landed. Think it looks just fine.

Door panels are on the list for me this spring. Plan is to pull off the white sound deadening pad, dynamat most of back of the door panel, put the white pad back on and see what that does. Also bought a roll of felt tape to *maybe* put on some of the mating surfaces of the door panel and trim. Still uncertain where that will come into play having not had it apart yet. The rattle on mine seems contained to the armrest, and the area of fake leather above it. It really drives me nuts on certain songs and it’s a shame because the stereo otherwise sounds pretty good to me. My thoughts on doing the panel instead of the door is to hopefully block some of the resonance and “stabilize“ the panel. Looking at the backside, there seems to be room for improvement on the factory deadening. The rest of the truck...to me...seems past the point of diminishing returns on dynamat-ing.

Did the most satisfying automotive tasks around...pressure washed the wheel well carpets and deep cleaned the floor mats.

I dunno but I’ve run my truck through the automatic wash (touchless) with underbody flush probably 100 times and never had this problem. If it was widespread I think we’d be hearing a lot more of it. Most people don’t hand wash their pickup trucks, especially not in the winter. I would push the dealer a little harder to find the root cause.