swathdiver

Those pistons will only take so much detonation before the start coming apart. These forums and youtube have lots of photos of busted 6.2 pistons from guys running 87 in high compression engines designed for 91+. In our area, fuel prices vary wildly even within certain neighborhoods.

How about a new update?

After reading this, 4-strokes are looking better!

We were having dinner in our state's capital near the college campus the other night and you'd never know there was a virus scare going on. No social distancing, no masks in sight, quite refreshing!

Changing the VLOM is standard operating procedure when replacing a lifter. It is the failure of the VLOM, the mis-timing of the solenoids, that jams the lifters. Run Dexos approved oil and keep clean oil in the engine, 7500 miles is too long.

Well Torque Pro and there's another whose name I forget can see a lot of engine functions if you get the PIDs set up for them. I would want to see the fuel pressure, actual and commanded, the O2 sensors and Long Term Fuel Trims, Spark Advance and all ****** options. If yours were mine, I'd get the MDI2 with GDS2 software so I could see and test everything.

Look into a VXDIAG NANO with GDS software so you can see everything and run proper tests. Could be loose heat shield or something that knock sensors are picking up. Good scan tool can read fuel pressure and commanded fuel pressure. Maybe even your Torque Pro App if you get the right PIDs. Ask Ken, KBUSKILL over at the TahoeYukon Forum. Some guys here might know too.

If the wheels are turning the internals are getting lubricated. The ring gear picks up the fluid as it spins the fluid goes where it needs to as long as the level is correct.

Never heard of a driveshaft disconnect, let alone an automated one; how does that work? In my generation truck and the next, swapping in a 2-speed transfer case with the switch and module was a plug and play affair. Are the T1s using the MP3010 transfer case?

It's longer, the equivalent of the PF-63. Longer filter has more media and makes removal easier for me, especially with the nut.

You'll see higher oil pressure for sure, it flows a lot more oil and filters even better too, higher quality all around. I run the long one, HP-2011 and love the nut for removal.

That's a bit low, especially if you have an iron block motor. The Mobil One EP filter drops the pressure at least 3 psi compared with the K&N, which is why I quit using them and run the long K&N on my LC9 motor. If you add two additional quarts to the motor while idling and the oil pressure comes up, it's time for the pick up tube o-ring to be replaced. They usually go out at around 165K or so.

Brian, there's so much that isn't so in what you wrote. These new direct injection engines are less prone to show differences in performance between octane ratings and brands but I can assure you that the older Gen IV engines and just about anything else that burned gasoline showed an improvement in performance when higher octane fuel was run compared to what was originally recommended. I am one of those guys who has logged just about every fuel stop in everything driven since the 1980s. If you are not driving behind a DI engine, and you're honest with yourself, you'll quickly discover that all brands of gasoline are not the same in performance. For most of us, Chevron is the best gasoline performance wise money can buy. However, it is not always the most cost effective to burn as many Chevron stations are mighty proud of their fuel and charge a premium for it. How much does your favorite gas cost you to drive a mile? This is an important measure of performance on our wallet but not always the engine.

Load your trailer up and go for a drive and see how you like it. Take it to the CAT Scales and weigh it to see how much is on your tongue. If she gets a little nose high or drives squirrelly, get the WD hitch. I don't think you're going to have a problem not using one. When I read this the first time I saw Denali and thought of the wagon, not the pickup. Your ratings may be even higher and should say so in your door jamb on the stickers and at the hitch.

You're owner's manual will tell you to because you're over 5,000 pounds. That weight will put you right up to or over the tonque weight depending on how the trailer is loaded too. I've done runs around town up to 6,000 pounds and had no problems but not sure I'd want to run on the highway like that for any great distance.

That's a near twin to mine, only newer with a few more niceties inside. These are wonderful trucks and far more capable than they are given credit for.

These people do not believe in reality. They do not believe they are hypocrites. They do believe in anything that will advance their utopian dreams even if they contradict themselves from one day to the next.

I was attempting the SPS programming through ACDelco's TDS system, I have a subscription. Same instructions as you posted.

Ok, if you have those RPO codes you're good for maximum towing, 8,000 pounds.

The first time I took it to the dealer and they exchanged the fluid with the TransFlow machine. The machine does a flow test on the transmission cooler and lines and then lets the transmission's pump do the work of removing the old fluid and introducing the new fluid into the system. The second time I did it at home, took off the top line from the transmission and let it flow into a bucket, then added fluid through the dipstick tube. Again, the transmission's pump did the work. Decide whether or not you want to turn off AFM and either way, I recommend that you get the truck tuned by BlackBear Performance. Not to go faster but for improved transmission performance. Get yourself a Tech-2 so you can properly diagnose and work on your truck too. After the fluid is changed, you can reset the internal transmission oil life meter with it. If this is a 4x4, do you have a single speed transfer case or a 2-speed TC? Does it have RPOs K5L, KNP and KC4?

I thought so too. This kit did not come with the activation code on the sticker like the accessories did. The instructions do not reference it either, just to download the yellow label RCDLR programming. The regular Techline people won't talk to me without a dealer number. So I have to call another number and they do not do VCI codes over there. I have the older version of the 2nd option, 19244151 which is 19156555. These part numbers and the part numbers of the parts inside were used on other vehicles, like the Acadia. Appreciate the help.

They didn't do anything over the phone. A few months ago I added the shock and tilt sensors and the engineers made a custom part number so it would work with my truck. Apparently, even though it was offered, it had never been added to my configuration before. They didn't say anything about the 2-Way ARS, just supposed to be a simple programming with yellow label of RCDLR which was already listed.

I've done the fluid exchange twice on mine with no ill effects. First at 117K or so and then at 153K. The fluid was pretty wore out so from now on it will get done every 36K or so. Sent off a sample to BlackStone Labs for analysis. I'll drop the pan next time, still has original filter. What year is this one?

Thanks. Called in last week and they said that either the battery was low or the part number was wrong. The guy hung up on me when asked about part numbers. My battery was a little low but still strong enough to light off the engine. We'll try it again once it stops raining and call if that doesn't work and make sure this box has the right parts in it.

Well I'll be a monkey's uncle! I had no idea, thanks! Now I ain't going to keep trying their fuel no more!