swathdiver

A machine shop can get it out, make the hole straight, and if necessary, use a HeliCoil to restore the threads stronger than original. The new design cover reduces oil consumption through the intake manifold, moves the hole to a different place allowing less oil to enter the PCV system. Give the tuner as much information as possible, though I'm not sure what you mean by cam lope other than sounds, but I think you may mean how the camshaft was degreed.

I don't know the answer to that one. @CamGTP

Switches go bad, you can take them apart to clean the contacts but if you have to replace the unit with a new one, it will have to be programmed with a Tech-2, same for passenger's door. If you get a used one out of boneyard with same options, you will not have to program it.

Pushrods too long? Look up Dantheman1540 over at the TahoeYukon forum. He lives in your neck of the woods if memory serves and knows his way around the inside of an LS too.

The window switch is not plug and play, a new one must be programmed to your vehicle. A Tech-2 or equivalent would give you the BCM codes, tell you what's wrong, so you're not doing what you're doing now, throwing parts at it. Still need the Tech-2 to program the new switch via ACDelco TDS.

Assuming you have 3.42 gears, at 30 mph your still in 5th gear until right before 40 mph. On mine the rpms are around 1000, no more AFM on mine. The other could be tires need balancing or maybe it's time to open the rear cover and inspect the ring and pinion and spider gears.

If memory serves, it is an early version of the smaller one. He's approachable, email him and ask. IMO, the smaller the numbers, the more torque down low.

No new information here either. The smaller Crane cam was discontinued but vendors still have some for sale. This guy, Thunderstruck, has several articles across various forums about his experiences with a drop-in Cam Motion camshaft. Watch this video he took, motor doesn't seem labored as it rockets to 100 mph:

Is this a RWD or 4x4?

Rebuild it and do it right this time, replacing the lifter trays is SOP. If you are keeping AFM, replace the VLOM with the updated one and only use GM OE parts, not Dorman or Chicom garbage. Get the updated lifters and driver's side valve cover too. If you delete AFM and don't want to spend $400+ on a new camshaft, get an L33 camshaft, same single pattern grind as your original without AFM. This is 3-Bolt so you'll need to adapt to it which is easy. Send the block and heads out to be cleaned and checked for cracks before spending a nickel on anything else. When they get a clean bill of health then start ordering up parts. Get a shop manual and measure measure measure and check your clearances. Might be fine with stock size bearings or things might need turning and over-sized bearings installed. The LC9 in your truck uses a high volume low pressure oil pump, it pumps 1/3 more volume of oil per revolution than the pump for the iron block motors. It is known as a Melling M365. There is no need for anything else or more pressure. Read this until you are familiar with it and before you start, might save you a bundle of time and money: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/wp-content/uploads/Articles/03_01_2012/986163348GMGENI_00000054947.pdf

Richard, look up the terms RVC and EPM. The charging system in our trucks is smart and monitors the health and charging state of the battery and these can be seen with a bi-directional scan tool in the BCM. The 2009 or 2013 Electrical Upfitter's Guides have excellent information on this that you can download from GM.

Our trucks have a smart charging system, look up RVC (Regulated Voltage Control) and EPM (Electric Power Management), that's why your voltage moves around. A bi-directional scan tool can look at BCM information, like how the charging system keeps tabs on the battery, State of Charge, Start Up State of Charge, Battery Temperature, etc. My cheap 30 month battery is now 4 years old and has been in Florida almost all of that time, very rare indeed for this climate.

Could be hubs or the end bearings on one or both sides of your front differential.

I don't think english is our friends first language.

You also have to bleed the ABS system and that is done with a Tech-2 or equivalent. Replacing all of my calipers and draining the old fluid out, I went through 6 quarts of brake fluid after doing the traditional and ABS bleeds.

Well, you didn't mention the ABS pump and you might have selected the wrong parts and or put them on incorrectly. The wear indicators go on the inside for example.

That's why I mentioned it, the L33 was a Gen III camshaft, same grind without AFM as the 2007-2009 LC9 camshaft. Yep, that new BTR cam, along with Crane and Cam Motion all make slightly larger cams but cost about $300 more.

Hans, I hope you ordered GM OE or their supplier parts and not cheap Chicom stuff or you'll be doing it again soon, especially the lifters. Replacing the lifter trays is SOP anytime you pull the head and replace a lifter. The LM7 camshaft is smaller and a dual pattern grind compared to the one that came in your truck. LM7 12560967 191 190 0.457 0.466 114 - No AFM - No VVT LC9 12593207 193 193 0.482 0.482 116 - AFM - No VVT L33 12583623 193 193 0.482 0.482 116 - No AFM - No VVT Don't forget to replace the driver's side valve cover with the new design (12642655) to eliminate oil consumption and if she's been burning or spitting oil out the exhaust for any appreciable length of time, get ready for new catalytic converters. Only a desperate man or a complete fool would re-use head gaskets and torque to yield head bolts.

Get a Tech-2 on it so you can read the codes properly, diagnose the problem properly and fix it cheaply.

Why not solve the P0451 code first? Why throw money not where the computer is telling you the problem is?

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/extending-battery-life.117296/

Get with this guy:

That guy left office in 2017:

Replacing the trays is SOP anytime you're in there, good insurance. Melling is now and has been in the past the OE supplier for many engine parts including water and oil pumps, camshafts, lifters, etc.

Plenty of guys have said that on here this year alone, even boasted about it and then the next came back after exceeding that magic number with tales of woe. You can't change the rules of math. I think the magic number was 112 mph but forget those trucks' configurations. It's on here somewhere though.