kickass audio

were you affected by the plagued update back in September 2023? My truck was and it had to get a new transfercase control module just to find out after 2 weeks of the dealer screwing around that they found a wire with high resistance and needed to repair the harness to get the data to pass and update the rest of the modules. This time last year was a pain because of the GM strike so nobody was working and the parts weren't being made with how many modules they fried in the process. After the update last september my truck has seen 0 OTA updates, even when I force check for them. Granted i'm not paying for onstar so i'm not sure if that is the reason but I use my mobile hotspot from my phone to my truck and paired up to my home WiFi and the only updates i've ever had were for the google play store and the apps within the play store.

I didn't receive anything in the mail from GM yet but noticed on the my chevrolet app that my truck is affected by the recall N242435631 regarding a need to update the radio and serial communication firmware on the truck. From that others have said it looks like it updates you 2 editions for the android OS from android 10 to android 12 and some other fixes like the bug of the audio stopping at random. I had my truck in for it's annual inspection and they said to come back in a few weeks and drop the truck off for the recall because they have had it take 4 hours to update the radio. What has the outcome been for those affected by the issue? How long was your truck out of service for while the dealer took care of the update? My radio isn't finding any OTA updates after the GM screw up a year ago where the OTA update bricked my transfer case module due to a wiring issue that had high resistance between the HMI and TCCM. I really hope this update doesn't land my truck in the shop for another 2 weeks like last years f-up.

android auto uses wifi for it to connect since bluetooth does not have the high bandwidth requirements for a good connection. I'm assuming you mean your phone is connecting to your trucks wifi hotspot connection it's broadcasting? If so and it's not for android auto then just go into your phone and forget the trucks wifi network from your list of connected networks. once android auto is started your phone will connect to the network just for the purpose of wireless android auto connectivity. If you use android auto with a wired connection then the wifi is not required.

I just put my old 370A elite series alt I had from my 2014 silverado 5.3l into my 2023 silverado 5.3l and it works but at idle when warmed up the voltage looks to go down to resting voltage for a second then jumps back to 14v and keeps going back and forth. i do not have an adjustable voltage regulator for the 2 pin alternator and am using the OEM plug which mechman does not recommend. I also noticed the 370A alt is super hot and it was never that hot in my 2014 so not sure if there is something going on with the stupid fuel economy of changing the alternators charging state or if something else is at play. I used the Lisle 59560 stretch belt install tool to put the OEM stretch belt (GM part number 12669858) on the truck. I have the big-3 performed so I will have to play with it another day and see what comes of it.

it kind of makes sense with HP tuners calling it that way. You have 2 ways to tell the compressor not to be on, being wide open on the throttle (WOT) or having a fault that tells it to stay off even when you want to tell it to turn on. Seems weird to disable the compressor with the actuator failing but I can say that some cars will cycle the clutch when you are in recirculate mode but will let the compressor run full time when you're pulling in outside air too.

You could try to jack just the rear up and torque load the engine by giving it throttle and brake at the same time. I'm thinking it's the pinion bearing for sure but you can also pull the brakes off and check the seals for leaking that might be causing the bearing to fail but a wheel bearing failure would be constant at all times, loaded or not. Also, since it's pretty easy, try pulling the driveshaft off and get a little drip pan to catch the fluid that will dribble out of the transfer case yoke and see how the ujoints feel in your hand. My dad had ujoint failure on his old tahoe where it would ride fine and randomly would vibrate like you had the brakes on. Then it started to squeak when backing up (sounded like a rubber duck haha) and we pulled the driveshaft then found the ujoint on the rear by the axle was dried out. Surprisingly it didn't tear the seals on the joints but those needle bearings were so dry and rusty it was only a matter of time before it exploded. We also noticed on the ujoints near the yoke that they were very tight to try and move around. Changed both ujoints and he was good as new again.

just for the heck of it, pull the fill plug on the rear diff and look for excess metallic flakes on the plug. There is another magnet at the bottom of the diff but you can start with the easy one that won't require a draining to inspect. The transfercase i'm pretty sure had the magnet on the drain plug not the fill plug. If you jack it up on all 4's, how do the wheel bearings feel? Also spin the driveshaft and see how the pinion bearing feels, maybe it's starting to fail on you.

There are buttons on the bottom of the backup camera screen. Press the leftmost button that shows the lines on the side almost like road line markers and it should get the lines back. There's also one for a center line used when you want to get connected to a trailer.

So update on the fuse in the instrument cluster at the passenger side. That circuit swap does nothing to the USB ports on the dashboard and only affects the USB's in the center console or at the back seat. IDK why GM had to make one set of USB's so they are always on retained accessory power only but you can control the other 2.

I previously was on F28 and switched it to F27 since I don't need the camera recording 24x7 and have it drain my battery on the truck unnecessarily. So far what might have done the trick is to use a USB data blocker in line with the USB that goes to the camera. Why in the world I have to use that all of a sudden is weird but it was a suggestion my boss gave me and it seems to be working. If by the end of this week the dash cam is still working then that was my fix because usually after 4 days of driving around the camera would freeze up and crash from a dead internal battery on it when I wasn't using the usb data blocker.

Do you have the trailer theft alarm enabled in the radio? I'm not sure if that feature flashes the lights but it will detect when someone unplugs the trailer from the truck and sound the alarm.

I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced problems with the t1xx generation where there is no 12v accessory outlet and you only have usb-c and usb 3.0 ports for 12v power. I have been having a problem lately with my vava 4k dash cam where the cameras internal battery dies out and it never was an issue before but I also had it where only 1 of my dozen USB-A to microUSB cables can work when connected to the dashboard mounted USB ports to power on the camera. If I use the factory microUSB cable or any other cable but the 1 magical cable, the camera will get power and turn on but locks itself up hard and won't function unless I plug the camera into the rear seat USB ports that are power only, I use a 120v to USB adapter in the center console to connect the camera to, or I use that magical microUSB cable that lets the camera charge and power on. I ordered some usb-a data blocker adapters to try and see if that might help but for the last month my truck is somehow trying to pass data through to the dash cam all of a sudden. If the data blockers don't help my problem then I think I might just need to hard wire a 12v outlet so it can run off accessory power when needed and hope that is my fix to this madness. My truck hasn't had any OTA updates for almost a year now (I still think that's strange that my radio is on the android security patch from February 2023, really makes me feel safe and secure without security updates to the radio and only the apps are updating on the radio) so that isn't something new that messed with the camera. Rebooting the radio or pulling the battery to the truck for a few hours doesn't help the issue. Does anyone have any suggestions on something else I can try? How the dashboard is setup on the refresh models makes it unnecessarily hard to try and run a wire under the dash for power and ground and I also need to research where I can tap into the 12v accessory line. If I could snag some power from the fuse that is jumpered in the passenger side of the dash for the USB ports where you can select constant 12v power or ACC power only for it that would be easiest but i'm not too big of a fan of the fuse taps.

your hvac control warning about high voltage is sort of a known issue I had with my 2014. I installed an aftermarket alternator on my 14 and it would charge the battery up so fast that when it was a cold engine or really cold outside my voltage would get above 14.8v and whenever that happens the HVAC would die out and stop blowing air until the voltage went below 14.8v. I messed around with a 2 way scan tool to change the alternator command for duty cycle and anytime my voltage went above 14.8 the HVAC would drop out and immediately came back once I dropped the voltage down to 14.7v. It's a touchy system. I'm concerned with your engine control unit's health, maybe you're lucky and just have a bad connection or worse the ECU is failing.

try pressing the onstar button to see if it connects. Onstar had dropped my service after the demo period and my truck was paid for 3 years of remote service (remote start, unlock, lock, etc) with the original build sheet. I just had to call onstar and they corrected the problem in 5 minutes and it was activated and good to go. Usually the green light being out is 1 of 3 things wrong, either you have no service being detected due to a bad cell service area from AT&T, the roof antenna is faulty, or you simply do not have an active subscription so onstar cut you off.

I have a 370A mechman alternator on my 2014 silverado and it's still left from that truck and I want to put it in my 2023 Silverado. Same mounting style except the bastard GM engineers used stretch belts and not a tensioner system and they plugged the holes for my water pump to allow adding a bolt on kit for an automatic tensioner. I may be able to get it to work but Mechman has a alt for my new truck that uses an external voltage regulator. With your truck if you re-used the 2 pin alternator wire you will have the factory ECM turn your voltage up and down as it sees demand so you won't always get 14.4v of power. You can override this by getting a 4 pin alternator with an external voltage regulator and use a shunt on the factor 2 pin wires to short them together and not trip the battery light on your dash. The only issue I will warn you about that I had in my 2014 was when it was colder outside, my voltage would go above 14.8v and whenever that happened, the HVAC system would freak out and shut down until my voltage went below 14.8v. Immediately after my voltage hit 14.8v it would kill the interior fans for the climate control and they would restart a few times. This only happened on super heavy loads and on a cold startup event so it was manageable but is worth noting. Also I managed to stuff 1/0 gauge wire through the ring terminal on the battery ground cable. I don't recall if the late year K2's had switched from the round hall effect sensor to the sensor being around the battery ground terminal but if you have the round sensor that looks like a donut around the battery ground cables then you need to pass the ground for the alternator through that sensor or it will screw up your voltage since the truck can't calculate your actual amp draw/demand. How I wired mine was I had the big-3 upgrade done and the negative terminal from the alt to the battery passed through the hall effect sensor, I then had a direct connection going along the firewall near the top of my + and ground wires to the second battery on the drivers side. My amplifier power and grounds were coming off the second battery on the drivers side through the firewall and to the back seat where I mounted a sheet of 1/4" plywood to the metal bracing on the bottom of the seat to bolt down the amps to. edit: forgot to add, if you want protection, install a 350-400amp rated fuse on the alternator positive wire so that if something gets burned or pinched and shorts out it won't keep stealing power from the alternator or battery and cause a fire on you. I personally live dangerously and never used a fuse on my alternator positive power wire lead. Keep the wires up and away from your exhaust manifold and you will be just fine. And depending on if you got the real alternator for your truck with a side mount positive stud not like mine where Mechman goofed up and sent me one with a back facing positive stud, you can keep the wire protected easily. Mine however I Had to leave the wire alone unless I pulled the battery power and needed to work on it since I had to slit the side valve cover beauty panel to fit the wires in there next to the PCV hose. No big deal but worth noting should you have a goof up like I did. If you need to know the upgraded alternator belt part number that works fantastic for your alternator let me know. Since the upgraded alternator from mechman will have a smaller pulley so you can have high output at idle speeds you MUST get a shorter drive belt. In a pinch you can drive to the store with the OEM belt on but DO NOT under any circumstances keep using that, you have got to get a shorter belt which involves going to napa or somewhere for it and slicing off the extra ribs with a utility knife.

you're welcome! The older trucks with power steering pumps you are correct it's not connected but the newer electronic ones it's all tied in.

actually the ABS will affect the power steering on the new electric power steering setups the 2014 and newer has. OP: you need to fix that ABS wire or you will not have electronic power steering assist. On the newer trucks if your truck cannot get a good speed sensed for all 4 wheels then you will have the ABS light come in and have no power steering as your truck has no idea how fast you really are going and thinks you are slipping around on the tires. I accidentally set the ABS code and the power steering reduced, drive with care warning when I jacked the truck up on all 4's and started the truck and kept it in gear with the truck off the ground. in 2wd mode the rears were spinning but the fronts were obviously stationary. I did this for a few minutes and immediately set a code after for wheel speed sensor issues and the power steering reduced message. Putting the truck back on the ground and moving it down my driveway immediately reset the codes after it was getting a good wheel speed reading from all 4 wheels.

do you have a speed limit sign on the instrument cluster at all? If not then you more than likely need to just download an offline map and that area will have the speed limit postings for you. You can also use mobile hotspot on your cell phone to pair the truck up to it and have a data connection without paying for onstar. I'm not sure for the 2020's if it will work that way as I have the refresh model but that's what worked for me.

There are a few online but sadly most have a lengthy build time before you can get the harness. It does split the harness for you so you don't need to strip and tap the wires yourself. The problem is if you don't want an aftermarket amp to power the speakers. The bose speakers run on strange impedances for the tweeter, front door and rear door not matching. The sub is supposed to be 1 ohm, front doors are a little less than 2 ohms, rear doors are 4 ohms. I'm thinking since I already have the speakers from my 2014 silverado to just hook the component speakers into the front door with the crossover protecting the tweeter but wire it in parallel with the door speaker to try and achieve a ohm load close to 2 ohms and not 4 but I don't think that would work.

If you wanted to be a fix-it type of person you can put the chuck in your bench vice and unscrew the end where the chuck goes onto the schrader valve. There is a little rubber washer in there and over time the washer gets worn out. I've replaced it before since I have a ton of rubber faucet washers on hand at home and it worked like new afterwards. Do you have a blow gun at all? If you do, you can rule out a regulator problem for air volume by connecting that and leaving the gun wide open and see what your air flow is like.

IDK where you are looking for $90 but the one I bought was a GM OEM from rockauto and their most expensive high frequency antenna is $67.89 but the one my 2014 takes is running 57.79. Since there were a ton of versions for that antenna on the market I strongly advise poking your head in the roof above the panel and see what color connector you have and if you really have 2 probes and not 1. You can't fit a single slot one into a dual slot from the body wire as they are slightly different sizes.

You could have a issue with your compressors regulator or the air chuck you put onto the valve stem of the tire. I had a sticky pressure regulator on my air compressor (it was a factory plastic piece of junk that my kobalt 30 gallon compressor came with) and I also had the air chuck get sticky and it would block the air flow into the tire. If you're careful you can remove the pressure regulator from the compressor and go straight to your air hose and turn off the compressor when the tank pressure is around 80psi or whatever you want it to then try to fill your tires. If it is still slow to fill and you have plenty of tank pressure then you have a restriction in the hose or more likely the air chuck going into your tire. Personally what I do when filling up tires is to have the regulator fully open and let the tank pressure get up to around 110psi then turn it off and fill up my tires. I then use the left over air to blow things off like bugs inside the mirrors, clean my cell phones microphone and speaker ports, blow dust off my keyboards, etc. then I bleed the tank to empty the moisture inside it. When you finish using your air compressor do you back off the pressure regulator all the way or do you leave it set to the pressure rating you put it to? You should really back it off when you finish using it so it can prolong the life of it and not wear out the spring inside the regulator prematurely.

Yeah you don't have anything more than onstar navigation which I hate to break to you but your 2014 is too old to have onstar service since it ran off 3G cell service which has since been shut down for over a year. Unless you pay a hefty price to upgrade the HMI and radio to get a newer version that supports android auto you won't have navigation built into the radio. The XM issue I will say I also had with my old 2014 and the high frequency antenna on the roof was rusty inside and shot. What's different on yours is you actually have a working compass, my high voltage antenna was so dead that onstar was a dud for service back before they banned 3G cell service and XM had no channels working, not even channel 1, and the compass would cut in and out at random then the compass on the radio and instrument cluster flat out died on me. You might also have had a previous owner who was paranoid on being spied on and unplugged one of the antenna wires that controls the XM service. One of the antenna wires is responsible for onstar and the built in compass, the other wire is for your XM service. Try and pull the screen off the dash and look behind the touchscreen and make sure the antennas are all plugged in then peek at the connection in the headliner by the antenna. If you really want XM service AND your compass direction updates as you drive around then your antenna is likely on it's way out and you can buy another one to replace it. I sealed mine to the roof with some silicone since the rubber seal wasn't that great and it worked perfect except for no onstar service. You also don't need to pull the entire headliner if you have small enough arms like I do. Just pull the A pillar and B pillar, remove your driver vanity mirror and the clip that holds the vanity mirror up on the roof and pull the rubber door gasket away from the roof. Then pull the headliner down just a little and sneak in a wrench and I want to say it was a typical 10mm bolt you need to remove and unplug the 2 antenna wires and pull it out through the top of the roof.

1: rear window motor (for sliding rear glass) 2: video processing module https://parts.chevrolet.com/product/gm-genuine-parts-video-processing-module-(programming-required-by-automotive-professional)-85004218?body=Crew Cab Pickup&bodyId=22&bodyNumDoors=5&bodyNumDoorsId=5&categoryId=3074457345616983734&make=Chevrolet&makeId=47&model=Silverado 1500&modelId=491&year=2023&bac=115369%2C115352%2C320852%2C178250%2C290298%2C115372%2C290911%2C202475%2C289459%2C172522%2C131030%2C285418%2C306530%2C115381%2C115353%2C311963%2C115368%2C115378%2C286519%2C307117%2C115385%2C115359%2C316437%2C286058%2C113532 3: Cab vents (for when you slam your door shut they flip open and release the excess pressure in the cabin) 4: Audio amplifier, part #: 84813325 5: looks to be the 110v power inverter, part #: 84962936 6: seatbelt retractor 7: i'm not 100% but it looks like the rear parking assist control module, part #: 85131831

I think that is the rainsense but some have said it's on the windshield. Probably something like a humidity sensor.