chem_man

I would say with it being under 3 years old, and assuming that you have less than 36,000 miles on it, let the dealer look at it since it is still under warranty. The message on the My Chevrolet App is likely due to the low voltage condition experienced when your battery ran down and not from the ABS system. Something similar happened to me and after driving for a few days, the DTCs all disappeared as did the message from the My Chevrolet App.

The first thing you need to do is to hook a decent code reader/live data scanner to it and see what codes are present and then begin diagnosing.

I've purchased the GM extended warranty on every new vehicle we have purchased since 1992, and I am glad we did. No major problems but just some irritating stuff and all problems were ultimately found, repaired and paid for by the factory backed extended warranty. In the end, I have either broke even or come out ahead. When the original GMPP warranty expired on our 2004 TrailBlazer, I compared coverage between a AAA Platinum Level extended warranty with the best GMPP extended warranty I could get. Well, the AAA coverage was identical and several hundred dollars less. When I had a problem with the AC, the AAA warranty came through and according to the Service Manager at the Chevrolet dealership I dealt with, they, the AAA warranty folk, were very easy to work with and did not question any of the parts or labor charges, and he was pleasantly surprised. Now, since we had to purchase a 2022 Silverado in order to replace our stolen 1999 Silverado, I went ahead and purchased a AAA Platinum warranty for 7 years and 120,000 miles for about 1/3rd less the the best price I could find on a GM factory backed warranty and and 1/2 less than the dealership's favored extended warranty (even at dealership cost which the finance guy offered, the AAA warranty was over $1000 less). Again, coverage is the same between the 3 products. So, if one belongs to AAA, check out the vehicle extended warranties/vehicle service contracts. You just might save some significant cash.

I would type out the conditions where your truck will make the noise. Be specific with respect to everything - parking brake being used, amount of gas in the gas tank, position of the truck (as you mentioned it will usually make it when parked on an incline - how is it parked, front end pointed uphill or downhill; parking brake set, etc.) Print this off and ask the service writer to attach it to the work order and to enter read attached letter for more specific information from vehicle owner. Do not let the service writer summarize what you have entered. If the service writer gives you any static ask to speak to the Manager of the Service Department (not just the service writer's immediate supervisor). If that does not work, call Chevrolet Customer Service right then and there and tell them that the service department will not include your observations so the service technician can have that information. Be as specific as you can be. Do not assume anything. You will be giving the technician a welcomed helping hand. Also let them hear the sound and be prepared to share the file with a technician or two. Also, be prepared to leave the truck at the dealership for at least 2 days. That way if they cannot duplicate it the first day, they might be able to do so later that day or the next morning. I've had excellent luck using this approach a couple of different times with a "strange problem" and the service department guys really appreciated the information as it allowed them to rapidly identify the cause. Good Luck!

I would use 16 gauge wire at a minimum. I am going to be installing a couple of 12 VDC power port banks (3 ports per unit) in my 2022 Silverado refresh and I'll be using 16 gauge red/black zip cable. I'll likely be routing the wires under the carpeting over to the passenger side door sill and up to the passenger side fuse panel where I'll be using a fused tap (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/littelfuse/littelfuse-fuse-holder/lit0/fhlm0200zpa?q=add+a+circuit&pos=3). I'll be installing two power port banks - one in the front seat area and one in the back seat area.

Thanks! Our 1999 Buick Century uses a separate stop light switch and our stolen 99 Silverado and 04 Trailblazer uses a combined brake light switch that is not adjustable. Guess I was hoping for a little "retro" if you know what I mean. Thanks again for the rapid reply.

Does anyone know if there is an adjustable switch used for the release of cruise control when the brake pedal is depressed? My 2022 Silverado LT Crew Cab 5.3L V8 does not have the adaptive cruise control. I am wondering because it seems to take more than a tap of the brake pedal to release the cruise control. With my luck, I'll find out that there is no adjustable switch and the cruise control is released when a computer module detects current flow or an applied voltage to the stop lights. Thanks!

mark1968, that sucks big time. I guess I got spoiled by the dealership I use for warranty work and the stuff I can't handle. They have never charged me a diagnostic fee when they could not duplicate the problem. Heck, one time they had something like 20 hours trying to track down an intermittent stalling problem on our out of warranty 1992 Olds 88. (Turned out to be a bad fuel pump ground inside the fuel tank.) I would do what Steve-2019 suggests. Call the dealership's general manager or, if you have been a good service department customer for many years, then the Service Department's actual manager (not just a "service manager") and ask what is going on (especially if you have purchased from them before). Heck maybe the GMCustomerService people who monitor this forum can chime in on this as well! Sure seems like a very short sighted policy.

I think the dealer's service department is actually following proper diagnostic procedures. They need to make sure that the alternator is putting out enough current at a specified voltage (say 14.5 VDC) with under ~20 millivolts of AC on the DC. Also, they need to check to make sure one of the internal diodes has not shorted out or opened, and that the voltage regulator is functioning normally. And since the PCM controls the alternator and how it charges the battery, that needs to be checked out as well. That way, if there is a defective part killing batteries, it must be repaired or else replacement batteries will have short lifetimes as well. While I understand your frustration (I would be too), I see both sides of the issue, and if I would have been in your shoes, I am sure I would have taken my digital multimeter out to check the DC voltage and AC millivolts on the DC to see if the alternator was behaving normally or abnormally, and if all seemed well, I would have purchased a battery elsewhere as you did.

Call the GM Executive Office at 313-667-7153. I do not believe dealer's are supposed to charge the owner a diagnostic fee for a vehicle under the factory warranty. However, the GM Executive Office will know the correct answer and if you were wrongly charged, they will make sure you get your money back and they will also have a chat with the dealer's service department. I was charged a diagnostic fee once by a crooked Oldsmobile dealer and I got it refunded when I pointed out that they had never charged me one before when I had our Oldsmobile in for warranty work under a GM extended warranty. The person I spoke with did refund the diagnostic fee as "a goodwill gesture". I also complained to Oldsmobile and found another service department that was honest (a Chevy dealer down the street).

If you have a regular cab, the R-134a capacity is 32.0 ounces. If you have a crew cab, then it is 36.0 ounces.

My suggestion is to make an appointment with one of the more knowledgeable service advisors or even the service manager and have them ride with you so you can show them the problem. If it takes 20 - 30 minutes before it happens, then the person you take along with you can experience it and let the technicians know what is happening. I had to do that for a problem that the techs said they could not duplicate. Service adviser I took along for the ride experienced the thumping I was feeling and told the techs there was definitely a problem. Turns out it was a bad tire that was just out of spec. New tire installed and the problem vanished.

Purchased. I keep 'em until they die, can't be repaired anymore, or are stolen.

Thanks. Very familiar with k0bg's website, although I admit it has been a while since i perused it. Again, thanks for the input and the referral to refresh my brain cells!

Thanks! And I do hear you on the battery life! Appreciate the input!

Hi, This question is for a 2022 Silverado LT (refreshed interior) with a 5.3 L V8. I am getting ready to run some 10 gauge red/black zip cord through the firewall on the passenger side and connect it to the battery. This is my first experience with a vehicle with a Battery Management System. I will be connecting the red part of the cable directly to the positive post of the battery, but I am unsure if I should connect the black wire directly to the negative battery terminal without going through the current sensor, or should I run the black lead through the sensor ring? At most, the transceiver would be running 100 watts output and according to the radio manufacturer, the radio pulls about 22 amps when it is putting 100 watts RF into the antenna. Thanks!

The thing I noticed is that the volume of the music off the USB thumb drive is lower compared to the radio (AM, FM or Sirius). I don't care so much about the screen being "locked" since my MP3s are on shuffle.

Familiarity with the 5.3 engine.

If you belong to AAA consider looking into the AAA Extended Warranty. It covers everything the extended GM warranty covers and is several hundred dollars less for the same level and length of coverage. I just purchased a 2022 Silverado 1500 Crew LT 4WD with the 5.3L, and the AAA Platinum level Extended Warranty/Vehicle Service Contract for 7 years with a $100 deductible was under $2200.00. I had a AAA Platinum Ext Warranty on my 2004 TrailBlazer and had zero problems with claims. The dealership that did the work also commented on how easy it was to do business with them.

Here is mine - 2022 Silverado 1500 Crew LT 4WD with the 5.3L V8. We picked it up just over a week ago. Replacement for a 99 Silverado 1500 with 32,000 miles which was stolen.

You might want to check that the ground wire for the fuel pump is intact.

If you have an android device I suggest getting an OBDII Bluetooth Dongle and then spending another $5.00 for the Torque Pro app. I have been using one of these for the dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/?tag=elightbars-20 This under $20 combination is extremely flexible, customizable and does more than I can describe. It will even let you set up individual vehicle profiles.

I agree on the getting the TYC from rockauto.com. The only thing I'll add is that I purchased the CAPA certified TYC headlight assemblies.

Have you tested the fuel pressure? You might be getting fuel but are you getting enough and is there sufficient pressure to go through the injectors.

Visit a real auto electrical shop and have them look at the output of the alternator with an oscilloscope. That will reveal a lot about the condition of the alternator.