M1ck3y

That's hilarious, Onstar notifies you that you have an engine problem. Just incase you didn't notice I'd put money on a blown lifter.. Wasn't there a issue of failing rocker's/spring's with lt1/lt2/l87, or something along those lines?

Trifecta isn't a canned tune. I don't have any experience with them but I have read that they've some how managed to gain access to control's hp, efi etc. can't.

Thanks! Definitely looked serious at first. None of it was magnetic, but it looked like aluminum to me, or maybe bearing material.. The couple of peices I stuck to my finger were hard/sharp. But I cut open the filter today and didn't see any signs of anymore flakes/shavings. That's a huge relief, so I'm thinking I can just keep an eye on it? My concern was magnified by the fact that I think the oil level was almost a full quart high. I had the oil cooler lines replaced not long ago and the tech said he had to add about 3/4 of a litre of oil. Which didn't make sense to me because my truck hasn't ever consumed oil. If anything the level goes up over time.

I hope not! Lifters were done about a year ago.

Happy Thanksgiving

I just happened to take a closer look at my drain pan (brand new) today and noticed some metallic flakes. They aren't large or in large quantities by any means. Barely big enough that when it stuck to my finger I could tell something was there, but stupid small. The shine is it what gives it away. The thing is, there was very little mileage on that oil. There was also nothing on the drain plug. One would think something like that would get caught in the filter, and remain in the filter. Not end up in the oil again. I can't say ever noticed this before, and I'm wondering if anyone on here has seen this.

Good stuff, truck has seen some deep mud. Hey, thats a great idea! We could all turn the box into a rolling planter. Put a nice big tree in there; clean the air as you drive! Pfft, who needs electric vehicles.

Headers on direct injection set a new standard of loud. Think police/ambulance sirens, but louder.

Your shrubbery looks like it needs watering... Maybe fertilizer.

Huh... I really thought truck nuts was going to be the winner.

Yeah, it's kind of bs that some vehicles get a pass. Especially sports cars. Looking at you Ford 5.2 voodoo! But, regarding the exhaust tips. A lot of municipalities have laws that actually don't allow tips any larger then what it came with from the factory. For the most part you can push that boundary quite far. But six inch tips is excessive, and will be obvious to even the most unkowledable that it's unique for that vehicle.

I rest my case. I didn't even have to post up any data.. This wasn't a pissing match, at least not to me. You should take a second and try to see yourself. You won't convince me that fairies are real. Good luck with everyone else. *Edit* I forgive you TNTSilverado

Here is a thread of a hellcat making power, but also loosing some peak power and loosing a half second at the track (without tuning). https://www.hellcat.org/threads/dyno-hp-before-and-after-afe-intake-w-o-tuning.11465/ How many threads do you think there is showing it made power and reduced et? A lot. How many threads do you think there is that show the stock intake performs best? A lot I'm not arguing with you. On the other hand you join the discussion, saying that I'm full of ****** and that you have evidence. Let's see this numerical evidence. Let's see map pressure, timing etc. All the data you have, so we can fairly compare your air intake/ exhaust to a stock setup. Stop flapping your dick around and provide oe level proof your increase in performance is purely a result of said modifications. I used to have an aftermarket intake on my current truck, dumped it. It made power because I wanted to believe it made power. Night and day difference going back to stock. The stock air intake holds a greater amount of air. That means power coming off of a shift, on/off throttle/brake applications and so on. It also boosts the map to atmospheric at 30% throttle because of resonate tuning. The manifold does loose a little pressure at high speed, but that's a result of the enclosed box not the filter or tube. I am significantly quicker in actual street/race conditions where it matters. Zero lag waiting for the air to get flowing in the right direction again. I spent a year suffering a stupid air intake. It was heaven when I put the stock one back on. So please, provide your data, break it all down so everyone can understand it and compare the performance of both systems.

Think what I want? Are you under the impression that I came up with this conclusion? If you are, your wrong. I am not an experienced racer, tuner etc. But I've have talked with people that fall into this category. The internet is full of people that know what they're talking about as well, but you need the ability to sift through the bull ******. And you sir, do not know what your talking about. Why are you talking about tunes? I said tunes are good! Don't get your panties in a twist, take a deep breath, relax... These facts don't make your truck any less cool. And if I'm being completely honest here, if you think you made horsepower with an air intake/exhaust (which you probably did). Acceleration improvements likely occured because your more confident, you think you have an edge, and you think it make's you faster. Therefore you are faster

He didn't. Map is slightly higher (at high speed) with an after market air intake. But not 3 tenths worth. The bottleneck isn't in the parts, it's in the tuning. For emissions and warranty reasons. Headers > boost > engine work Negative pressure > positive pressure > better breathing A canned tune is basically increasing timing. If your truck falls within spec and you have enough octane, yep you'll make power. However, a lot of trucks miss out and don't work with the one size fits all tuning. *Edit* Numerical data? Good luck with that. There's to many variables and I doubt you or him did anything more then a couple passes. What about the vehicles that made zero power increase, actually lost power, or made power but got slower? Run a-b on a different day and you get completely different results.

Wow, thats impressive! Considering the T1's fully loaded are actually heavier then the K2's. T1's have a larger overall wheel/tire diameter too dont they? Is There an extra shift with the 10 speed in the 1/4 or does it skip gears? What's your elevation, DA? By the way, that was my point. Nobody is going to have the same times, to many variables *Edit* Well yeah, your damn near sea level!

Car And Driver always has the lowest times because they account for every single variable. This includes elevation, temperature, humidity etc. For ex. If they are above sea level for the test, calculations are performed to determine what impact it had on performance. They actually put a number to each and every variable and add, or subtract from the time. They also run the vehicle in both directions and average it to account for any variation in the track, wind, driver etc. And last but not least they also allow 11.5 inches of rollout. Which will subtract .2-.3 from the time. If you want an accurate time, data log it. Nothing will come closer. But, you'll also be .3 slower then you thought you were Your trucks will also slow down with mileage. Unless you tune it. Why do you think you buy a new truck every 5 years. Feels old, slow, not what it used to be? Keeps repairs down and sells new trucks. As far as GM is concerned it's their truck, not yours. You just paid for the right to use it. On another note, intake/exhaust etc. does very little for acceleration times. If you want to actually be quicker look at a tune, e85, boost, engine work. Having an intake and full exhaust can help out any one of those mods (a bit). Without a tune it might make some power but it won't really make you any more quick. Weight, suspension, tires etc. Not often improved for acceleration on a truck. But if done right, can have a significant impact. Old thread, I know Came across it on google.

Did you guys find wheels that matched the oe hub bore size, or are you running hub centric rings? Little confused about this because everything I've read says you want the hub/bore to transfer load to the wheel. But it looks like the majority of aftermarket wheels don't match, and its just a friction fit? Does that make them lug centric? I went with Fuel Tech D670. Its a 18x9 +1 offset 5.04" Backspacing. I'm hoping that since its only a 32" tire it should clear

I'm now questioning whether or not they're legal? If those suckers fell off they'd do more then just chip your windshield How do you explain that to the insurance company

All depends what your after. A low restriction performance filter will probably free up +/- 10hp. And after 250000 miles you will be able to see wear on the cylinder wall's when viewed under a microscope.. A result of not filtering as well as oe. A performance filter won't make your truck noticeably quicker . But maybe just knowing you have slightly more power, makes it feel more powerful. In turn releasing more endorphins in your upper story On a side note, I currently have a stock paper filter.

Unless I'm missing something, Your truck probably need's some help to get moving. How about a Soler Performance throttle body along with a 6.2 intake manifold. Or... maybe a Christmas ornament? I'm not sure how your truck identifies but you could hang a nice pair of chrome balls off the back. I don't think they make a hitch mounted **** The owner of this truck and you must have gone to the same driving school

The transfer case skid plate is metal, skid plate behind the front bumper is plastic.

Wow, well that backfired. I guess pictures are needed. I only removed the lower air dam. In the summer I put it back on. You can get severe overstear with high speed cornering, and overall driveability is affected. Yes, I am aware of what it does. It ensures a low pressure area under the vehicle so that hot air is drawn down and out. In turn this pulls air through the radiator. Cooling isn't as efficient with the lower air dam removed but it still functions. If you have larger tires with a level/lift your likely not to notice or need be concerned about the handling differences. *edit* I forgot to add that the reason for the difference in handling is because the front air dam creates down force. I actually get slightly better fuel economy with it off. Truck feels lighter. But I could also blow the tires off if I floored going when going 100 kmph (on cooler days).

I have no experience with it, but from everything that I've read it's supposed to make a world of difference. Just give it some time to do some learning.

Removed the front air dam, not interested in plowing snow with my truck this winter. I'd take a picture but.. Well, we all know what an air dam looks like.