GETGONE

285 is the WIDTH, not the height. 60 is the percent of the width that the sidewall height is. 20 is the rim diameter.

No it doesn't peel off. It's manufactured as one piece. The pieces you are talking about are overlays that stick over top of the existing piece. I did find on ebay complete replacement pieces that aren't GM and are about $30 for a set.

What did you do to make it work? What year and trim level is your truck?

The half year makes ALL the difference. They changed the computer system from Global A to Global B with the refresh in 22.5.

I had also test fit a set of 14-18 18" wheels and the same spacer worked to clear the caliper. Did they try a smaller spacer or just went with that large just because that's what they guessed would work?

1/4" or 5mm. I picked up a set of slip on billet machined spacers on ebay for about $25. I have aftermarket wheels I had on my 08 Avalanche that hit the caliper. The 5mm spacer resolved that issue.

NO. You only need one harness. I have a 5th wheel harness that I had first that I used so I could have 12V in the bed. I bought a plug that converts 7 pin RV plug to 2 12v cigarette lighter plugs. That way I can plug a cooler or whatever in back there. I don't have the 120V AC plug in my Custom.

I tried to add an aftermarket remote start with extended range on my 21 Custom with a plug and play CANBUS harness and it DID NOT like it AT ALL! I ended up puling it out. Even after I had it out I had to take the truck to the dealer for something almost a year later and they said it had all kinds of weird wiring codes stored. I've installed the same remote start in several other older CANBUS vehicles with zero issues.

The lights I have are 2" cube lights and I just used a single larger self tapping screw to screw into existing holes on the bottom of the trailer hitch.

The TopDon I purchased does offer a TCM relearn function. I didn't mess with it because I like how my truck is shifting currently!

I know the 22.5's went to a Global B wiring architecture, but the 7 pin harness should still have constant 12+ and ground in it. I'm using a Putco plug in harness to run a tailgate light bar. I also tapped into the replaceable harness from the tail light to the chassis plug so I could replace it with a stock piece if I needed to take it for service and got any hassles from the light mods. I thought my lights were working properly at first too and when showing some friends, it came on, flashed 3 times and went off. That's when I did some searching and found I was overloading the circuit. Have someone watch the lights when you hit the button. It had worked fine when I was testing them after installing them in my barn just tapping the factory lights without the relay. It was a week or two later that it started doing the flash and go off deal.

Your truck was pictured on the GM Authority website for the promo article on these.

You need to pull the 12+ from the 7 pin harness. The 12V + and - are the only things that are always active on that harness. It works on my 2021 Trail Boss Custom because I'm using it to power my additional backup lights as well as using them as cargo lights when I turn those on.

You did what? You're overloading the factory circuit and it's causing it to flash and shut off. You need to add a relay to pull power for whatever lights you added. You can use the 12v+ from the trailer harness as a power source and the reverse light wire for the relay trigger.

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/skid-plates-2019-chevrolet-silverado-1500-gmc-sierra-1500/

So far, no. I have a heated leather wheel I swapped in. It doesn't work just plugging it in place of the stock wheel. I would love to get it working without a lot of cost and hassle.

I custom ordered my Trail Boss back in 2021 and got whatever GM was offering at the time it came in. I also had supplier discount as well. There's usually disclaimers on big discounts that they can only be used on in stock vehicles on dealer lots.

Same!

As for Onstar, the antenna wires are in the driver's side A pillar. 2 10mm bolts and you can pop the cover off and snip or disconnect the wires easily. I ran across a product called CrocLoc https://croclocecm.com/ I picked one up on ebay as they had a low starting price and no one bid on it so I got it a couple hundred cheaper than their website price. Since the truck has a felt inner fender liner and you can just pop the connectors off easily, thieves are using their own ECU with keys programmed to it to get in the truck and drive away. The CrocLoc puts the ECU in a locked metal box so they can't unplug the wires. The only complaints I have about it are that the ECU has to be mounted via double sided tape inside the box, and the TCU mounts on top and outside the box via double side tape. I used WAY better 3M exterior double side tape to hold both in place. They provide a single use lock that requires removal via bolt cutters. I didn't like that idea so I found a padlock that fits so I can unlock it and remove the cover. I swapped out the 4 phillips head screws that held the cover in place with a mix of allen and security allen head bolts. I'm also going to be picking up a catalytic convertor anti-theft shield soon from these guys: https://www.fsperformanceengineering.com/collections/catalytic-converter-guards/products/chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra-1500-catalytic-converter-guard-2019-2023-version-2?variant=40268602179630 This is an updated version that has more coverage and looks to also act as a skid plate for stuff vs the original version they still sell that is cheaper.

I'll buy a spare beater vehicle for that price!

You can find gloss black and chrome stick on covers that cover the whole unit on ebay. Been considering a gloss black one for my Trail Boss.

AFE is dry filter, which is why I went with it to start with and kept it instead of the oiled K&N. I have oiled filters on other vehicles but it's because they were put on before dryflows were a thing.

I originally installed just a AFE dry flow drop in filter on my truck. Couple years ago I put in the K&N kit that's similar to the Airaid Junior kit. It just replaced the factory intake tube and silencer. I didn't notice any more noise or power. I kept the AFE filter instead of putting the K&N from the kit in.

Been pushing the button on my dash since May of 2021 when I got my truck. Still have the $100 in my pocket and no dead batteries!

This is the crap version of the eliminator that causes battery drain and possible dead battery. GM even put out a service bulletin about this and the solution is to remove the unit and charge the customer for the service.