GETGONE

You must be super young. NO cars when they were first mass produced had a rear locker and had the "one wheel peel". Only in the 60's were locking differentials offered from the factory. On ice you just get the wheel with the least traction spinning while the other just sits there. @newdude doesn't the G80 unlock at a certain speed even though it's mechanical? I know there has to be ~100rpm difference between the wheels before the locker engages.

Pretty sure they're the ones supplying them for the ZR2/AT4x. They supply the G80.

LD is the old generation truck, not the new T1 platform.

Looking at factory since I'm not aware of anyone making aftermarket e-lockers for these trucks yet.

Physically yes, but you won't have the factory integrated buttons for the E lockers. I believe the wiring is just power and ground though, so you would really only need to wire up a toggle switch for power. Been considering at least a rear one for mine.

The Putco harness is a T that plugs in between the left and right tail light harnesses and then has a flat 4 plus a white wire for reverse lights. https://www.putco.com/product/blade-quick-connect-harness/529005/

If you have a 2ohm factory speaker and go to a 4ohm aftermarket speaker you cut the volume in half. The ohm ratings are matched to what the amplifier supports. You can usually get away with over driving an amp by going the opposite direction, if a stock speaker is 4ohm and you put 2ohm speakers in, they will be louder because the amplifier is driving them harder. You run the risk of overheating/frying the amp depending how loud and how long you listen to them.

My dealer offered a non GM warranty, but I'm constantly getting emails from GM about extended warranties and the different plans they offer.

Nobody came up with any answers. I did talk to a co worker that knows electronic stuff and he thought I should be able to just add power to the wires for the back and bottom and it will shut off on it's own because of the thermosister built into the heat pads. The problem I have is trying to figure out how to be able to make low/medium/high heat levels. The aftermarket seat heaters I bought just have low and high, but I want to wire it to be back/bottom or both on. It would be nice to be able to have all 3 levels of heat for both back and bottom controlled separately. Guess I should browse ebay again and see what controllers I can come up with.

They have a lot of nice stuff, but fairly pricey. I'm still waiting for AEV to release the ZR2 pieces as stand alone parts. They'll probably be even more expensive.

Try these guys: https://gofia.com/?term_id=176&year_id=7639&make=7650&model=7651&post_type=product&action=vpf-ymm-search

LOL, use some rubbing compound or a very fine sandpaper. Use gloss black touch up paint and you'll never know it's there unless you REALLY look. The ONLY good part of all black rims. They hide imperfections pretty well. I've had to touch up a couple nicks on my stock rims from rock chips or something, no damage to the wheel, only paint. I also had to touch up my aftermarket set of wheels as one tire shop I took them to clamped them from the face and not the back and made a bunch of marks in the paint.

I saw the GMC AT4's have ALL the trim gloss black. Before I think it was just the door pillars.

Is that the one with the removable Homelink piece? From what I saw of those they use a coin battery for the opener and aren't wired in with the dimming mirror.

Did you remove the sway bar at any point? I think you have it backwards if it's rubbing, even with a lift.

There is no "center cap" that's the ENTIRE mirror housing! That's what hinges to the mount point. Look on ebay for a used mirror.

Yeah, the OE BCM doesn't like much if any additional load. I had to add a relay for mine when I added LED cube lights in addition to the multiflex step lights. It would just flash 3 times then go off.

I've seen too many videos of vehicles that actually use wire nuts and have found a few myself over the years. It drives me nuts! Glad it was just for testing. I just twist the wires for testing.

Seriously??? WIRE NUTS ON A VEHICLE???? USE BUTT CONNECTORS!!!

Maybe some of the police around me swapped theirs. I swear I've seen them running small hole wheels. I do like the older larger hole ones, but not sure if they clear the T1 calipers. Those T1 PPV 20" steelies are going for over $2K a set WITHOUT tires!

Now you mention it, the PPV vehicles used the small hole version of the steel wheel.

Interesting that aluminum spare is on a truck. I have only seen those on Tahoes and Suburbans and clone SUVs.

Steel spares are the same as the production ones, but painted black and a temporary tire. They are 7.5 if I remember correctly. I was researching them on ebay the other year. You can find aftermarket steel wheels in 17x8 or 17x9 that are cheaper than the OE steel wheels even used ones.

When vehicles went to CANBUS communication, the older tools won't read CAN data. The ELM style adapter the original poster showed was known to have issues when it first came out ages ago. It was a knock off of a good working product with corners cut. I can't remember what my current Bluetooth OBDII brand is. I have the older ELM knockoff as well somewhere. I'm considering a TOPDON Bluetooth adapter as it is a bi-directional unit and is only about $60.

There is a service bulletin for the HVAC that required a reprogram on my 2021 Silverado Trail Boss Custom. I had it in to look at something else and they found the bulletin and then kept it overnight so they could get a tech to do the update the next day. I think the paperwork is in my truck so I don't have the bulletin number handy.