stu_pidasso

Are you able to take a video and upload it to YouTube? This is interesting...

If you want to solve these issues, its necessary. Test lights have limitations and are only good to prove you have continuity. Is your truck insured for fire? Fire seems to solve issues fast. Don't be careless where you park that thing, like, say, on a really dry leaf pile. Probably not a good idea to pay someone to burn it down either.

I do not want to sound rude or dismissive but I agree whole heartedly. Leave it alone. I do not place too much effort on thinking about what these gauges do. I glance, and move on. I take what they tell me in advisement. Focusing too much on these gauges can lead to a wild goose chase, multiple page threads, and lighten your wallet by $500 or more, for nothing. I've had multiple GM trucks across three different generations and they all do this, bounce all over the GD place. There sure is a possibility of a weak O ring, or clogged pick up strainer, etc, but you'd see more concrete, blatantly wrong readings. If your mechanic is telling you not to worry about it, which when you think about it hes turning business away from himself, listen to him. It's not worth it.

I just have to ask, what is this "something" you have to fasten under your seat hahaha a secret compartment for coke?

You can also just press and hold the traction control button for roughly ten seconds and it'll knock everything out. I think you have to press it once to cancel traction control, and then press and hold for ten seconds to cancel Stabilitrak.

This is exactly what I would do, it's the safest option. Install exactly what was meant to go in there in the first place. It's a stupid idea to install something that wasn't intended to be installed and subsequently try and "make" it work. It's also dangerous and can cause unpredictable handling if you use components that were never designed for that specific vehicle.

I must've finished updating my post when you posted this but here is my update anyways: Did a little googleating here, Arnott now makes aftermarket MagneRide struts but for Z95 suspension option cars. There is one front strut for GMT900 SUVs, not trucks. Magnetic Ride Shocks | Arnott (arnottindustries.com) And they also make them for K2 SUVs but not trucks... Front Coil-Over Shock - Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC SUVs (K2xx) w/Magneride (arnottindustries.com) The plot is thickening here...

Hmm... MagneRide isn't air and Arnott makes air suspensions. Could it be this guy put air struts in a vehicle that take electronic struts? That would certainly explain the low nose. I always thought GM only had air suspensions in the SUVs, Ill check up on that as I could be way off. Did a little googleating here, Arnott now makes aftermarket MagneRide struts but for Z95 suspension option cars. There is one front strut for GMT900 SUVs, not trucks. Magnetic Ride Shocks | Arnott (arnottindustries.com) And they also make them for K2 SUVs but not trucks... Front Coil-Over Shock - Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC SUVs (K2xx) w/Magneride (arnottindustries.com) The plot is thickening here...

Try rock auto. Worst case, you just buy a good primer and spray it to your body colour.

Auto-Brochures | home Check that out and look to see in some brochures if it was offered. Most of those brochures are for US spec models. I don't know, I could be very wrong, but I don't think that was an in dash option. The 900s had in dash trailer brake options for sure and I remember people blowing their wads over a factory built in trailer brake, but I'm not sure the 800s ever did aside from a dealer installed option?

Could have a dumpy belt that cant turn the compressor hard enough. Check that guy out too.

Shouldn't you have a speed square at a job site? Makes 45s look like they were done by Norm Abrams himself.

Well, there is your problem. I don't mean to sound like a dick here but you should've trusted your instinct on it buying the Delco struts. Sounds like he just didn't want to do work, period, especially considering he didn't align the truck after. There is also no core charge on AC Delco MagneRide components so there is clue one that this sounds like a bad idea. I didn't think so either. Arnott is the only suspension component manufacturer that I know of who will take a core charge on parts and rebuild. The only trucks I know that have Arnott brand shocks are Z55 AutoRide equipped Burbs, Yukons, etc... Arnott will also take back German car struts on Benzes with an air suspension.

It almost looks like the stock regular suspension set up, nose down so the truck is level when towing.

When did the fuse start blowing? After you put a new starter in? shakenfake is right, check all the wires in that circuit and make sure there are no shortable or dumpy connections. Worth your time to clean them all up. Additionally, if that fixes the fuse issue but not the no crank, no start problem there are a few things you can do. First is put the key to the on position, do you hear the fuel pump prime? You can swap equally rated relays around like the fuel pump relay in order to take the relay out of the equation. Another one thats annoying is the immobilizer ring in the key tumbler/ignition switch. The three pin connector on the top of the ignition switch can get touchy and not allow a crank and start. You can pull that connector out and clean up the contacts, and also jam something non conductive in the connector to try and wedge the connector tight in the receiver. If you have a multimeter, even a cheap one, it can help solve this whole issue.

I had the same service done at an independent shop a couple of years ago, plus an engine oil change, and I was about $400 all in. $90 an hour shop rate that didn't charge based off of block time.

Your best bet is to probably intercept the fuel pump wires. Some starting wires can have high amps, high enough to jump across a switch. But the better question is, is your truck insured for theft? If so, let them take it. Probably cheaper than replacing smashed glass, repairing the interior, getting body work done, and fixing whatever damage these losers do. A stolen or attempted stolen vehicle is like a spouse thats been with someone else. Just doesn't feel right after its over.

Yeah, thats weird for sure. GMT800 & 900, and K2 have a pile of different suspension options that demand direct replacement and no retrofit or deletion. I bought a Suburban from auction and some doofus before me replaced the rear struts with non Premium Smooth Ride struts which caused the whole truck to handle effed up. I bought AC Delco struts for the ZW7 option on RockAuto and that made the truck a lot safer. I wonder if these MagneRide struts are like the transmission pan gaskets, just better to get right from GM and not use an aftermarket equivalent? So perhaps someone ordering the parts had no idea how dependant these trucks can be for a direct replacement. As goofy as it sounds, I'd check to make sure the struts are connected first, then I'd check to make sure these are the exact struts needed for your RPO codes/VIN.

There are lots of options for you. I personally understand why you'd want to do this and I've done it myself. The first is you find a GM GPS head unit from an LTZ, SLT, Denali etc on eBay and swap your current head unit out for that. You will not have Android Auto, but you will have a moving map and cellphone. The maps will be out of date, but never the less they wont use data and are stored on the system permanently. You may be able to find GM update software to keep the maps relevant. This is a great option for, if you'e like me, and want an OEM continuity look. The second option would be to buy an aftermarket system. Alpine, Kenwood, etc these brands make double DIN units that do audio, cell phone, Android Auto, CarPlay, GPS etc... However, the GPS would be taken from your phone and not a hard database so you may be paying data. You don't even have to buy an established brand either like Pioneer, a quick search on Amazon shows theres plenty of GPS and Android capable head unit systems for well under $500. You will get what you pay for. You may also have to buy an amplifier switch for an aftermarket head unit, this is explicitly true to the Bose equipped vehicles. Aftermarket head units don't speak the same language as the Bose amplifier so if you put a head unit in without the amp switch, you wont have audio, not even the key bong and these range about $100-$200.

I wouldn't place a whole lot of stock in to these gauges, treat them as advisors. If there is a real pressing issue either a light will come on or whatever is broken won't work.

Your options are to touch the brake to cancel it, or turn it off to cancel it. You can set the cruise at 60mph to unload yourself of a lot of work, and the truck will sit there all day at 60mph until theres no gas left. The truck half drives itself and this is your complaint? Reminds me of the Louis CK bit on flying.

They're mechanics, they will figure it out. I'd say it's time to throw in the towel.

It's a moderately annoying job. There are lots of videos on YouTube, like this one for a GMT800.

Pressure and flow do not correlate, they do not have a direct linear relationship. Ever. The oil pump is positive displacement, it will always push and push and push, even with a restriction or block. In the industrial world, PD pumps require extra care because starting them without giving the fluid a place to go can cause pipes to blow apart. Personally, I would not worry about it. As long as the oil pressure is within that 20-60 pound gauge range and the oil pressure light/message isn't on, drive it and don't worry about it. I buy whatever oil is on sale and within spec, and I always buy the premium filter. My gauge swings all over the place and I don't give a rats.

One thing you have to consider is the suspension set up in the 'Burban compared to the pickup trucks, one of the biggest differences is the absence of leaf springs in the 800 and 900 chassis for the SUVs. Suburbans also have two different exclusive suspension options, AutoRide and Smooth Ride which basically turn road in to puffy clouds and you cannot get these on the trucks. And don't think about trying to retrofit a truck with the Smooth Ride struts either, because it'll make for dangerous and unpredictable handling.