Sir Dan

From what I can find, the cam position sensor lives to the right of the vvt. (Can't see it in the pic) I'm starting to think the oil leak may be actually coming from that vvt plate gasket. Seems to many YouTube videos of that one. Still would like to know what the left one is though....

Hello all. I need some help finding out what the sensor or whatever it is called is in the photo by the arrow. It appears to be loose and leaking. Even after a thorough googling session I can't find any description or part number for it anywhere. WTF! Gmpartsdirect doesn't show it and the one diagram I did find called it an engine oil pressure sensor which I don't think is right. Its a 2016 5.3L engine. Thanks for any help!

My 2016 5.3L 8sp was not covered so I replaced the harness myself. https://www.gmwholesaledirect.com/oem-parts/gm-automatic-transmission-wiring-harness-24046895?c=az0xJnE9MjQyOTg3NTc%3D I think the part was $30 plus about $150 for gasket/filter/fluid. I didn't take the exhaust apart, just used a jack to move the whole engine/trans up for clearance. The only fiddly part was getting the correct fluid level back in.

Probably the torque converter. I think the problem was mainly with the 8 speed transmission.

At least you HAVE a dipstick. Don't even have one on my 8 speed and checking the level involves jacking, leveling, wrenches, and calculating temperature algorithms!

My wireless charger worked with my old phone but not my new one. I think it's a problem with the charger being outdated or something. There are some people who change the module under the charger with an updated one but I don't use mine enough to bother. I have aftermarket AMP research power steps so can't comment about yours but I have heard that the factory ones are junk.

Mobil 1 HP Blue Label is the only fluid recommended for the finicky 8 speed. Even with this fluid they are prone to torque converter shudder and harsh/delayed shifting. Gotta be the worst transmission GM ever dumped on us poor folks...

I know there was a recall that addressed this issue on my 2016 that involved software flash to help avoid this problem with more electric boost. As the vacuum pump wears it gets to the point that even the electric boost can't help.

When I took mine out, I had to put the tire back on for extra leverage and my dad had to lean all his weight in on it to move it in enough to get the clip out.

Go to another dealer. Not normal wear at all. Or pull it off and check it yourself. Great reason to learn how to do brakes if you don't know already.

Somebody's had the trans out, probably to replace the converter or install updated anti drainback valve. Are you original owner?

Sadly, the general has gone down the old crapper lately. Mostly with poor engine component and tech quality.

Vacuum booster pump going bad? Take the serp belt off and run engine momentarily to see if the noise quits.

The dealer usually needs to reprogram the BCM if you add electrical options which your truck wasn't originally equipped with.

You might get a better response to this if you post it in the Gmt900 section for 2007-2014 trucks.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/maintenance/berryman-intake-valve-combustion-cleaner/&ved=2ahUKEwirlrf4pK3tAhXPVzABHQTzBSsQFjABegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0FFNs5k8m61RWrCF9T6uFo This has a nice setup with a curved injection tube.

Please, please try a different dealership for repairs before you get too discouraged. They are not all the same by a long shot....

Just FYI, seafoam is a great product but doesn't have the stronger chemicals needed here. Use Berryman's or a CRC product instead, something with PEA in it.

At that mileage a rough idle could also be caused by carbon build-up on the intake valves. There are products you can spray into the intake to clean them.

I would not install pre rusted plugs but that's just me. Seems like something went wrong with the welding there

Thanks for posting this! I've been searching the net looking for a bolt on delete and couldn't find anything. Why in the world wouldn't they market this for the previous gen trucks as well??? There's lots of them on the road and not everyone wants to booger weld their exhaust.

^^^This. Remote start and heated seats have been discussed at length for the K2's and it's just a fact that while they are turned on when remote started, it is on low and with no butt sitting in it to hold the heat in there is just not much heating effect. The newer heated seats are no where near as good at heating as the older vehicles since they go for more "efficient" stuff now.

Mods should add this to the pinned topics. There is lots of good info piling up here regarding what seems like an ongoing issue with the door wiring.

I have the garbage 8 speed in my 5.3L Silverado and it has been horrible since day 1. Vibrating and slamming gear shifts both up and down but not all the time and usually only when cold. (It is especially well behaved if a GM tech is driving to diagnose!) ? Its been flushed and reprogrammed several times with no help. Last winter on a very cold day (-20F) I was running with the DIC set to trans temp just on a whim and noticed it read just 2 dashes for 5 miles or so then really erratic when it did read. I thought it was weird but hell the trans wasn't acting any worse than usual so what the heck. So Recently, I see this issue with the temp. sensor on the 8 speeds and it all makes sense now. I have been watching the trans temp much more closely now and it seems to read pretty stable when temps are summer time warm like 60 and above but the colder it gets the worse it performs and the more temp readings bounce. Now I know why this trans has been so horse sh**t and of course it's not covered for the 5.3L engines. GM is losing me with this truck I think.

I would remove the serpentine belt, then start it up cold and run for a few seconds to see if it still does it.