MotoMedic

Sundown:

When I removed my headlights and mounted my HID ballasts to them, I didn't see any vents or openings. In fact the round cap to access the bulb has a rubber gasket to make it seal when closed. If the truck was assembled or the housings were opened on a day with high humidity, the moisture in the air can become trapped and cause your lights to fog up. After I installed my HID's (in south Louisiana where the humidity is always high), I noticed mine had some fog build up. Easiest way to fix is with a little nitrogen, if you have access to it. My company uses nitrogen in it's tools, so I just the hose in the housing's opening, let the gas flow for a min or so, & then closed them back up. No more moisture/fog problems.

Posted my install in the K2 section, since it's such a new vehicle. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153662-adding-subamp-to-ltzslt-bose-system/

It's not worth it for video. I tested several videos of various sizes and file types. For the ones that did work, the playback was choppy and out of sync with the audio. You can watch video with the truck in Park. If you put truck into gear, the video playback stops but the audio will continue.

Leveling kits for GM trucks only modify the front suspension. Any kit that modifies the rear will be called a lift or drop kit. Any leveling kit requires a front end alignment. Without it you'll prematurely wear out the inside of your tires. Some will probably see the same ball joint issues on the new K2's but that's a chance I'll happily take versus driving a nose dive truck.

FYI: My 33" tires are 275mm wide (275/60r20). If you go with a wider 33" tire, you may or may not have clearance issues.

I went with Rough Country because (back on July 1st) they were the company only advertising leveling kits for the new K2's. Later I discovered that the standard K2 suspension is the same as the GMT-900, so any previous kits will work (see attached pic). However, if you have the All-Terrain package, you did get the new aluminum parts, so I have no idea if you need a special/different kit to level..? Anyone level an AT yet..? For the DIY members out there, the install is pretty straightforward, but you will need a second set of hands to help you hold things. I did mine solo and it was a pain! haha! I have too much free time at work! I can't comment on the ride quality because after installing my level, I immediately changed to 33" all-terrain tires and am running them at higher pressures. On my old GMT-900, I had the same setup (20" wheels w/ 33" Coopers) running the standard 32-33 psi and my aggressive driving quickly wore out the outer shoulders. This time around I'm running 37-38 psi to decrease tire flex. It does make the ride a bit rougher, but it's still better than my GMT-900 with the same rims/tires. I was in a hurry to install my level & tires right after I bought the truck so I never took any before pics. I did take measurements: front/rear difference in ride height was roughly 3.5" before and is now about 1.25". Also, I believe I saw someone mention in a different topic that the 2WD & 4WD K2's are the same height upfront... this is false! I measured a few trucks on my dealer's lot before buying and the 4WD's were consistently around 0.5-0.75" higher than the 2WD's (my guess is they use stiffer springs to handle the added weight of transfer case & front drive..?).

I'd shoot these guys an email and check if the light kit is available to order: http://www.gmpartsonline.net/ Several dealers in my area all told me they can't order any Denali parts yet. I contacted GMPartsOnline and had my grille delivered in less than a week.

#'s 4 thru 10

Thought I'd post my collection (so far) of 2014 parts diagrams, for those members like me that aren't afraid to pull their trucks apart. #'s 1 thru 3

33" Cooper Zeon LTZ (275/60R20)

Climate control uses data from interior & exterior temp sensors, as well as the dash solar sensor. When I started truck about an hour after reconnecting battery last night (and after beginning this thread), the A/C began to work correctly again. The exterior temp worked correctly when I started my truck first thing this morning. Looking back, the battery was actually unhooked for 2-3 hours, so I guess the factory systems are just slow to catch up after being completely without power for an extended period. I've been running errands all day with zero issues

Well, it resolved itself. Started the truck this morning and temp display now correct. So apparently if you disconnect the battery, the truck needs several hours to 'get its bearings' ha.

It's behind the grille. You can reach it if you put your hand through the gap left and below the G in GMC. When the sun comes up, I'm going to poke around under the hood and make sure I didn't bump anything. The fact that it changed from 32 to 37 makes me think it's a software glitch. Dunno. .

Just went & tried it again. The climate control works correctly now but the temp reading is still off.. 37 degrees instead of the previous 32. "Ghosts in the machine"

PS- I tried running every reset/restore in Intellilink

I just can't win... first my HID power issue, then the LED reverse bulbs aggravation, and now my outside temp isn't registering correctly! I unhooked the battery for about an hour today and after reconnecting my external temp will only read 32 degrees. I thought maybe it was on metric, but when I actually switched everything to metric it changed to 0 degrees. You may wonder, what's the urgency? Well... if I put my auto-climate on any temp other than the Low setting, it blows hot air full blast b/c it thinks it's freezing outside. Only the Low temp setting will blow cold air. Looks like I'll be at the dealer tomorrow for 07:30.

Good luck finding one! The dealers version is online only and, per GM, customers must contact Helm for service manuals. I checked their website and they list the 2013's as "Coming Soon"

Thanks, I've seen that write up before. Probably similar but not exactly the same in the new trucks. Guess I'll find out when I pull her apart.

I have a 2014, so there's no ripping out the "stock POS" head unit. And like I said, I'm only interested in adding an amp/sub. The Bose system does a good job with highs/mids, but I'd like a little more low end. I'm installing RF Punch 325.1 and RF PS3 10" (pulled out of my old GMT-900 before selling). I'm getting older and my tastes have changed. My days of listening LOUD (along with my hearing) are gone! Gain on my amp is never above 50%. ha I did professional audio for several years when I was younger, but haven't kept up with much in the last 10 years. I created this post, hoping someone out there had developed a simple plug-in-play solution, since automakers still refuse to give us built-in factory pre-amp outputs. I'll already be removing the rear seats to install the amp/sub... looks like I'll also be removing the front seats & center console now, which I was REALLY hoping to avoid. Oh well... PS: There's nothing wrong with tapping wires, if you know what you're doing and you're willing to accept the drawbacks. For example, tapping a rear non-Bose speaker will give you a signal, but the low-end signal will decrease as the volume is increased. Tapping a Bose speaker will also technically work but it will lack the very low-end due to factory crossover/amp, as well as suffer from the volume-increase bass-decrease side effect.

From inside the cab, there's no sound when in V4 mode. V8 has a nice low rumble. Basically the same as the GMT-900's when switching.

On my way to New Orleans, I decided to check how much my modifications had decreased my MPG. The big three I did that affect gas mileage are removing front air damn, raising front end 2", and installing larger tires. (the numbers below for Modded Truck have been corrected for increase in tire circumference) Stock truck: 21+ MPG @ 77 MPH (outside temp 85-90 degrees) Modded truck: 18 MPG @ 77 MPH (outside temp 90-95 degrees) So my modifications cost me 3 to 4 MPG at interstate speeds. Well worth it to me!

Oh yeah, I installed my 5x8x18 Magnaflow muffler today. I decided to leave in the resonator (it's near the spare tire on 2014's) for now so I could judge volume/drone with new muffler. Before there was virtually no sound from the exhaust. Under hard acceleration you could only hear the intake. Now it sounds like a normal truck. A little bit at idle and a good clean sound when accelerating but nothing loud or "look at me" annoying. For those that want to be heard, I definitely suggest removing the resonator and going with a smaller muffler (that's if you're buying the straight flow-through style; chambered mufflers like Flowmaster might sound completely different).

It's a dumb-valve, as in spring tension is the only thing that controls opening/closing. Looking at it up close, I'm surprised how inefficient the shape is... maybe it helps the truck perform better when in V4 mode..? Dunno. I'm no exhaust expert, but it sure looks like it would really disrupt any smooth/laminar flow the exhaust might have had. *EDIT: It normally swings both ways freely, but I had to open it in reverse for the pic b/c of the metal slag left over when pipe was cut so close to valve.

.