chris15706

That noise was for sure the torque convertor. Last week it started slipping and then wouldn't go into gear at all. Just picked up my truck the other day with a new torque convertor and a rebuild on my transmission. Good times!

2017 4x4 Silverado 6 speed 130k miles. Blackbear tune since new Changed trans fluid and filter at 105k miles. Right before it shifts into the next gear it makes a whirring noise. I have a quick YouTube video below that you might have to turn up the volume even though the noise is much louder irl. It started about a year ago but only did it when I pulled the camper. Now it does it all the time. It seems to have trouble holding overdrive as well. I took it to a transmission shop, and they acknowledged the noise but didn't feel like it needed repair right away. They offered to replace the torque convertor and rebuild the trans for around $3600. Is this noise coming from the torque convertor? It doesn't do it if I rev it up in neutral. Video of noise:

Yes there is a way to do it without cutting into anything. Check out my thread on gmfullsize from a few years ago. I can easily return my truck back to stock with this setup. All the harnesses you need along with the steps I took is in the link. Also you can use the red and black from the amp bypass harness for power and ground instead of tapping into the factory harness. https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/2017-crew-cab-silverado-audio-upgrade.308436/page-2 Metra 70-2057: http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-2057 Metra 71-2107: http://www.metraonline.com/part/71-2107 Metra 72-5600: http://www.metraonline.com/part/Ford_wire+harness_72-5600 Stinger Speedwire: http://stingerelectronics.com/catalog/wire/9-conductor-speedwire-20ft Wiring: Factory Green Harness Left Front/Dash Speaker (+/-) Blue – Brown/Blue // pins 1 - 9 Right Front/Dash Speaker (+/-) Yellow – Yellow/Black // pins 2 - 10 Left Rear Speaker (+/-) Green – Green/Black // pins 3 - 11 Right Rear Speaker (+/-) White – Blue/Black // pins 4 – 12 Power // Red // pin 8 Ground // Black // pin 16 Metra 71-2107 Reverse Wiring Green Harness Left Front (+/-) White – White Black // pins 1 - 9 Right Front (+/-) Gray – Gray Black // pins 2 - 10 Left Rear (+/-) Green – Green Black // pins 3 - 11 Right Rear (+/-) Purple – Purple Black // pins 4 – 12 Power // Yellow // pin 8 Ground // Black // pin 16 Metra 70-2057 Amp Bypass Green Harness Left Front (+/-) Pink – Pink Black Right Front (+/-) Blue – Blue Black Left Rear (+/-) Red White – Red Black Right Rear (+/-) Purple – Purple Black

I caved and got it fixed at the dealer as i couldn't even find the condenser for r1234yf and didn't have the time to fix myself. $1700 and now i feel so dirty. If this was the regular r134a i would have been all over doing it myself since there is plenty info out there.

I have been following and hearing about this problem since i bought my 2017 brand new. Now at 64k miles afraid i am a victim as well. Noticed the last year or so a few times it would just blow hot air but it would be fine the next drive or two. It happened today but its not coming back this time. The compressor is not turning on at all. I cant visually see any signs of leaks or rust from the hoses or condenser and fuses are good. Went to autozone to get a can of coolant with the dye in it thinking i could pinpoint the leak then realized mine is the new r134yf coolant. This coolant is more expensive and harder to find so i dont really want to dump money into troubleshooting a leak i cant find. I might just cave in and visit the dealer. Has anyone had this problem with the newer type coolant? I noticed alot of the replacement condensers are for r134a only.

Not sure... I just grabbed what i had in the garage that fit the bolt.

I just did this to my truck as well and it fixed the problem for good! This was after 3 trips to 2 different dealers while my truck was under warranty.

I just did mine with the eibach springs last week. Snap ring is set to the lowest but I'm about a quarter inch higher in the front. Think I will add an inch to the rear as well. The ride is stiffer but a lot more controlled. I noticed my truck didn't feel like it was going to skip off the trails while out in the woods last weekend. Steering also feels smother and in less of a bind as opposed to a spacer kit. I think this is the way to go for a level and replacement shocks unless you have the cash for fox, king, etc....

I was going by this guys measurements: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoDIX8yJLwM He just did the springs and set them at the bottom snap ring. I was hoping to do the same and leave the rear alone. I had a 2 inch spacer level before and the front height was perfect to me.

I had the 6112’s on order but gave up and decided to go with this same kit. I thought the springs give you 2 inches? Did you take any fender measurements? Glad you didn’t have any problems with those spring compressors. Think I’m going to chicken out and just have a shop do that part.

Yesir.... just the stock block though. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

This is with a 2 inch level.

Here is my 2017 with a 2 inch zone level and 285/65r18 BFG KO2's. Plan on switching to boss or fox coil overs at some point.