Willshire

Do you have this problem pm26? I think you have part of the problem in the stiff frame/mounts amplifying an otherwise minor vibration that may not have been felt in previous years but still may have existed. I don't know if suppliers have changed between 2013 and 2014 but if they haven't then what design changes were made. trucks have been made in mexico since 1994. Mine is made in Mexico and doesn't shake

So, i asked for my shifts to be firmer than when not in T/H mode, jacked my rev limiter to 6000rpm, WOT shifts at 6000, This was in my 08. 1-2 shift was pretty hard at light throttle but if i was racing a dodge or ford it was WOT anyway. I raced my BB tuned 08 (Z71)against my BB tuned 02 (2wd) and they were pretty close. more was done to the 02 than the 08. Justin provided a Stock, sport, and tow tune files so if i was towing i would put the tow tune in. Just ask him about the sport mode and he will explain what he does. I assume higher shift pressures to the clutches is one of them. My 08 ran flawlessly up to the sale date and had 240,000 miles on it and i only replaced the starter and the radiator in 4 years

Ok. So are we thinking the same thing here? Not engine, not transmission, but is a rotating component? Which leaves front and rear axles and drive shaft. Could it be amplification of a problem through the stiff suspension? I guess with all of the different vibrations called out, i will stick with the 65-80mph one lol. Also, if it isn't in the steering wheel, can it still be in the front end?

Your 2016 vibrates?

So, 5.3's do it, 6.2's do it, 6 speeds do it, 8 speeds do it, Z71's do it, LT's and SL's do it, different gear ratios do it, steel wheels or alloys do it. What is common to all of these trucks? From the front: Wheel bearings?, cv axles?, brakes?, struts (springs anyway)?, Transfer case(?), drive shaft?, rear axles and bearings?, rear ends?, rear brakes and springs.? are six cylinder guys having the same issues? I am intersted to see what the non road test, wheels off the ground results will be. I know my suspension pics up every crack in the road so, i am willing to bet that anything could be causing this right down to buffeting the underside of the truck and transferring through the cab. but then, i am just guessing

I had blackbear modify my tow haul to make it sport. It was awesome!

I guess a place that offers vibe analysis would be spendy too. I am sure a dyno owner or the friend of a dyno owner may be able to give this a shot for not much investment. but like you say a $400 EVA2 would do the trick, perhaps. A dyno would be way sweeter though as you could eliminate so many variables and concentrate on a certain part of the truck instead of happlessly trying anything

It would be nice if there was a way to put vibration sensors in multiple locations around the truck, tied into a diagnostic computer, and run down an ultra flat stretch of road and pick up the sensor with the most vibration and concentrate on that area for issues. Anybody tried replicating it on a dyno where only the powertrain and rear tires are the items that could be the cause? It Would eliminate both road surface, front end components from being the culprits. Or i guess it would eliminate the powertrain and rear suspension depending on the results. just a thought. I do notice my hood buffets at high speed but, i can't see it being that.

Nice work man! MC is not Canada friendly so i am going to go to walmart and buy a couple of strainers and cut my own i guess. 2 strainers and a pack of key rings: $6 lol

Good Read GDI

I just quoted on a job to remove a wax spray booth for unibody frames and I assumed full frames were done this way also. They are hanging as well when they enter the booth

Having a key doesn't bother me. But then, i'm old school. my other car has 4 wires going into the engine bay to make it run, steering wheel doesn't lock, and it has power steering so sensitive you can drive it with your pinky finger. Oh, and drum breaks all the way around! Ahhh simpler times.

Ok. i am a little confused because this sounds like basic science to me. I have double pane, argon filled windows in my house. When the temp outside is below 32F and the furnace is on, my window on the inside condensates. Isn't this a reaction of a cold window meeting warm air? For guys with HID or regular halogens, the inside of the light gets hot from the output of the bulb so the inside of the light housing is now warmer than the air outside the housing. When you park the vehicle, the outside temp cools the warm air inside and creates a foggy appearance. I'm an electrician not a scientist but this seems to be how warm and cool air mixing tends to work. From Ricart website Getting water or condensation buildup inside of your headlights can be a very common occurrence and could happen for a number of reasons. As you drive with your lights on, the bulbs continue to heat up. Once you stop, the cooler, moister air outside can trickle into the housings of the headlamp. The housings, on most cars, are vented at the top and bottom to allow for pressure differences that keep your bulbs and lamps from cracking and failing. When the lens of the headlight is cooler than the air inside the housing, droplets of moisture will condense inside, leaving you with water on the lens. When the outside temperature rises, the moisture usually evaporates.

I'd always forget my house keys! lol

Is there a cabin air filter in the truck? So particulate matter is being caught? The heater only works in the fresh air mode? As it has for the last 60 years? I've never used recirc except for max a/c and then all you smell is the a/c lol. If you want to warm your truck in the winter you leave it in fresh air as it has to go by the heater core so cold air won't be coming in when your temp is turned up to 90 anyway. I apologize to any this offends but, good lord! their smells! things smell. makes me glad i have a nose. The smell of skunk lasts for 3 minutes, the stinky truck in front of you can be solved by backing off. For years we have asked to have the cabins sealed from noise and air leaks/wind noise. So now that they have done as requested at the expense of the recirc door not closing all the way. I always thought bad smells in the cabin were a result of driving in a smelly area.

My 2016 looked painted before the undercoating was done. and besides, it's one coat of paint and likely not the greatest application since its done by robots. Wax is sprayed on too. So the inside of the frame is never coated anyway. Haven't seen any trucks without rust on the underside here. You could always apply a rust converter and then apply rubberized undercoat. The underside gets all of the road hazard abuse, no way to protect from that. A lot of debris on paved highways and tires kick up debris as does the force of the air going under the truck. If you don't want it to rust (as fast) move to a place away from sea water and never sees winter like Arizona! LOL. you could always have no drip applied. My 08 made it 8 years before the rear wheel well started to rust. It wasn't through when i sold it but it will be by this time next year. 48-54 seconds. That's all each component gets on the assembly line and that's all assy lines by any mfr

I had them add the lifetime warranty'd undercoating and panel rust protection to my 2016. once a year i return for touch ups. It is warranted against perforation. If it perforates they replace the affected part. the company that does it should have a good rep too. I had it on my exhaust, lacquer thinner took care of it in no time My 2008 sierra was no-drip oil coated every year and i sold it with next to no rust after 240,000 miles. And we like to use salt on our roads here. I also frequent automatic car washes with the under body spray too. it helps

Yeah i saw that. good idea. Even a little screen on both sides of the scrubber material would work too. Looking at the Elite can, it looks like they use a similar media to coalesce the oil vapours

Seems weird it only does it after the check. Like the check is open but, the orifice that remains when it is open passes less air the manifold wants or less air than the 3/8" hose before it. I'd look into a little stiffer hose. The check valve seems to be more for boosted applications anyway as boost creates manifold pressure at certain times where as the NA engine never produces pressure in the manifold

Just got the winter tires on! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a vibe at 85mph but it's most likely the snow tires I just had put on. Canadian speed limits don't let me drive 85 very often so..... I expect a certain amount of vibe on our shitty roads but my water bottle test does not warrant a visit to the dealer

Yes sir 389 350hp/400tq in a 4000 lb car! Lol. 4 speed auto. It's in pieces right now and it takes all my mod money so the truck will have to stay as it is. With the exception of a bb tune in the future lol

Each new passenger motor vehicle must be labeled with the following six items of information: 1. The percentage U.S./Canadian equipment (parts) content; 2. The names of any countries other than the U.S. and Canada which individually contribute 15 percent or more of the equipment content, and the percentage content for each such country (a maximum of two countries); 3. The final assembly point by city and state (where appropriate), and country; 4. The country of origin of the engine; 5. The country of origin of the transmission; and 6. A statement which explains that parts content does not include final assembly (except the engine and transmission), distribution, or other non-parts costs. The percentage U.S./Canada equipment content, as well as content percentages for other countries are calculated on a "carline" basis rather than for each individual vehicle and may be rounded to the nearest 5 percent. The term "carline" refers to a name of a group of vehicles which has a degree of commonality in construction, e.g., body and chassis. Light duty trucks are considered to be different carlines than passenger cars. A carline includes all motor vehicles of a given nameplate. Vehicle manufacturers must calculate the equipment content percentages for their carlines prior to the beginning of the model year. They estimate the number of vehicles and subgroups of vehicles that will be built within each carline, e.g., the number of base level and high-line models. For each carline, the calculation of U.S./Canadian content percentage also includes: 1. The U.S./Canadian content (by value) of each item of motor vehicle equipment that will be used to assemble the vehicles within the carline; 2. The total value of each equipment item, i.e., the price the manufacturer will pay for it (this information is typically provided by the manufacturer's suppliers); and 3. The total number of each of the equipment items that will be used to assemble the vehicles within the car line during the model year. When optional equipment is offered for vehicles within the carline, the vehicle manufacturer estimates the installation rates for that equipment. For example, if vehicles are offered with a manual and automatic transmission, the manufacturer will estimate how many vehicles will be built with each transmission. The label must be placed in a prominent location on each vehicle where it can be read from the exterior of the vehicle with the doors closed. It may be part of the Monroney price information label, part of the fuel economy label, or a separate label.

Yep, the outer carbs have accelerator pumps and jets and that's it! GDI Tech, you were around when Mickey Thompson built the Pontiac Hemi then too? I think he was part of their race division back then. Anyways! Back to catch cans!! Merry Christmas Folks!

Thanks Man! We are all here to gather quality info from others and other sites. It's important to keep this info at the top of the page LOL. GDI is very new to me so i am collecting all i can on the subject. Now, GDI Tech, can you help me tune my 64 pontiac tripower? I have a stumble in transition between the center carb and outer carbs when they kick in!! Lol Just kidding man! just a little background on the fueling system i have been working on before i bought my new truck Generations of technology advances between the two!