asilverblazer

Above is the only other reading I found on the topic... Nothing I read seems to follow a path that results in replacing the switch.

Should be real easy, pull the panel off, unplug the switch, pull it off the panel. Reverse for installation.

I doubt they know much more than published information I posted, I'd be interested to do an actual diagnostic of Chadw90's condition to see what tests point to replacing the switch to get better performance. Then compare those same test results to your truck. In his case there was an actual problem (apparently) and would like to see if that is the same in your case. In any case, all we are 'supposed' to know is what ever the manual says.

I bet you could do just the bottoms, I've thought of doing the same myself.

In my case, probably all the above... It would be a misnomer to say I frequent job sites, but I do occasionally. Currently, the tires on my truck are Goodyear Workhorse something or others load range E. My gravel road, that's about 1/4 mile long is tearing them up. They were new when I bought this truck and I can't wait for them to wear out so I can replace them, I can't bring myself to be THAT wasteful.

Fuel injector balance test above.

I posted fuel system and fuel injector diagnostics. They are from a subscription site. It is critical to use genuine OEM injectors and not counterfeit or aftermarket parts if you determine injectors need replaced.

Try a different dealer?

I run more tire than needed too. A 'tougher' tire has some value to me... road hazards, etc...

gmupfitter.com

BFG AT KO2 I've lost track of how many sets I've had and how many miles I've put on them. I think I'm over 5 sets now and over 300,000 miles... Oddly, I've never worn them out, I've sold my trucks wearing them while still with plenty of tread. They've always had plenty left at 60,ooo miles. No punctures, no blow outs, no odd wear, no excessive noise, no balance problems. Good traction in the dry, snow, dirt, sand, mud, gravel... I'm not sold on the KO3 yet, I know the tread blocks are closer together and against my own advice, I want to try the HD Terrain.

You need better research materials. It WILL NOT extend the life of the engine. Pros: ... ... ... ... ... Cons: Sound worse Cost money Check engine light Failed inspection Lower resale What parts in front of the exhaust system do you think are going to last longer? Do you think your small intestines care what kind of shape your @$$hole is in?

There is a scan tool function to test injectors... See this thread for injector balance test. Its a long read... You'll notice how sensitive the injectors are. I don't advocate changing parts unless you have a definitive diagnosis to do so, your opinion may vary.

Bonded leather I think is what it would technically be called. At gm the "bonded" part is silent. What can they get away with advertising as leather vs. what we expect when they sell us leather vs what is real leather anyways... Real leather, a tanned piece of hide that has been dyed and skived to a uniform thickness; is NOT what is in any truck. Leather remnants scraps and trimmings that are shredded to uniform consistency then glued back into a sheet with a pattern pressed into them is the leather they are using. The 'particle board' of the leather world. Particle board is still wood after all.

Above it says setting the gain to 0 effectively turns off the trailer brakes output. I would agree that setting the gain is similar to setting guidance for the system in determining a baseline output amount. It COULD be that simple, I'm inclined to believe it has more programming to it than that.

If you always use the same station, you could have gotten bad gas - and keep putting more of it in. I've personally NEVER seen or know of anyone that has actually gotten contaminated fuel and consider to be an unlikely cause. Most likely problem(s) based on conversations here are injectors and/or high pressure pump.

None of these lift styles increase or change the amount of "pre-load" on the springs. You can verify this by measuring the height of the spring with and without the lift installed, assuming you reuse the same spring. There are only two ways with these lifts to increase spring pre-load: One, you put so much "lift" into the system that the strut assembly and/or spacers pushes the upper control arm so far down that it is forced against the droop limit stop at all times. Two, a poorly engineered strut, where the strut piston is not long enough or able to extend out enough to make up for the higher spring perch location via the c-clips. These styles of lift work by moving the two strut mounting points further away from each other, via spacers at the top of the assembly or bottom, what you seem to refer to as 'outside strut' lifts. The 'inside strut' lifts are doing the exact same thing by moving the bottom spring perch up and down on the lower strut shaft. Regardless, your warning about upper control arms and ball joints is well merited.

Enjoy: 2018...

I don't know... but the truck probably has a sensor that expects an interial change based on the brake pedal application... uses your input on the controller as a 'suggestion' and modulates output to the trailer accordingly. ...goes to see if I can find more concrete information.