Jump to content

Converter Lockup Question


keckjr

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 1991 gmc sierra 1500 2wd 5.7L with an automatic overdrive transmission. I want to start off by saying that im not sure if this is an actual problem or just normal operation. This is the first of these models that I have owned and not sure what they are supposed to do. Everything im describing happens in O/D (4th). Anyways, the truck seems to be unlocking the converter when theirs no load on the motor. You can start up a hill and the converter will lock up and pull the hill with no problem, but once you top the hill and the load on the motor goes away the converter unlocks again and will stay unlocked unless you give it more pedal. If you give it more pedal after it locking up it will unlock again to give it more power to pull the hill just like normal. But it just seems like to much slipping. I live in the ozark mountains and this just seems like it would get so much better gas milage and less transmission wear if the converter stayed locked up at all times (in 4th gear) other then when your pulling a hill. No load=unlocked, mild load= locked, heavy load=unlocked (all in o/d). If you have any info it would definitely be helpful, even if its just to say stop worrying its supposed to do that.

Posted
I have a 1991 gmc sierra 1500 2wd 5.7L with an automatic overdrive transmission. I want to start off by saying that im not sure if this is an actual problem or just normal operation. This is the first of these models that I have owned and not sure what they are supposed to do. Everything im describing happens in O/D (4th). Anyways, the truck seems to be unlocking the converter when theirs no load on the motor. You can start up a hill and the converter will lock up and pull the hill with no problem, but once you top the hill and the load on the motor goes away the converter unlocks again and will stay unlocked unless you give it more pedal. If you give it more pedal after it locking up it will unlock again to give it more power to pull the hill just like normal. But it just seems like to much slipping. I live in the ozark mountains and this just seems like it would get so much better gas milage and less transmission wear if the converter stayed locked up at all times (in 4th gear) other then when your pulling a hill. No load=unlocked, mild load= locked, heavy load=unlocked (all in o/d). If you have any info it would definitely be helpful, even if its just to say stop worrying its supposed to do that.

 

My 4L60E did that for awhile and I found it annoying. I had a local shop install a "Super Servo" and that did the job. Simple and inexpensive to do.

 

Anon

Posted

Im pretty sure its not the servo, because it stays in overdrive at all times when its doing it. Thats why I think it may be something mechanical or electrical in the converter causing it to lock and unlock at incorrect times. I personally think its electrical because it shifts perfectly each time you pull out, but once you get up to speed and no longer are accellerating thats when the converter unlocks again. It maybe a bad sensor relaying incorrect info to the computer making it unlock at the wrong load. Dont these transmissions have sensors that tell the computer how much line pressure or load it has on it or is it a mechanical linkage. It does have a kickdown cable, but the converter has to know when to lock up the converter and that couldnt tell it. So basically im stuck in a rut until someone can give me some info on how the converter knows to lockup. Please any info would be greatly appreciated.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

First of all let me start by saying this is only an educated guess,because i have only owned one chev automatic.(I just recently bought a 2000 chev 4x4 auto.) Isn't the converter only supposed to lock under load? The reason is to save gas mileage. On my pickup I have a switch to lock up the converter. I was told to use this for towing on hilly terrain.I also was told that I would get less mileage with the converter locked up. If my guess is right the transmission will not go into overdrive with the converter locked, hence the lower fuel mileage.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,679
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Old Bay
    Newest Member
    Old Bay
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 806 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...