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02 Yukon Lean Banks


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Posted

Have been fighting the lean banks error codes for a while. I thought i had it beat until yesterday. Its 30 below zero and it came back. Error code for lean both banks and P0101 - MAF out of range. Any ideas? I have replaced the O2 sensors and cleaned the MAF. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Yukon has 110K and i did the full tune up at 100K with wires and plugs.

Posted
who diag'd this for you?

 

 

I did it myself. I am hoping that I don't need a new intake manifold gasket.

 

Well...if it says MAF out of range....chances are....................

 

Do you have a friend with a good MAF that you can swap and see if its corrected???

Posted

Rick do you understand that the money you tossed away from you guessing could have paid for the proper daig?

 

you guys don.t get it at all

 

you can spary brake cleaner along the intake and the engine will rev up slightly ,

 

with the cold weather contracting everything and now a lean code ,.....

 

get it checked or what Aiden said .

 

 

intake gaskets are easy ,just rinse off the engine first to keep poop out of the ports

Posted
Rick do you understand that the money you tossed away from you guessing could have paid for the proper daig?

 

you guys don.t get it at all

 

you can spary brake cleaner along the intake and the engine will rev up slightly ,

 

with the cold weather contracting everything and now a lean code ,.....

 

get it checked or what Aiden said .

 

 

intake gaskets are easy ,just rinse off the engine first to keep poop out of the ports

 

I think perhaps you don't give US credit. I did take it in for a PROPER diag 2 years ago when it first showed up and all i got from the OFFICIAL diag was a list of possibilities that might be the problem. THEY could not specifically pinpoint the cause of my problem. I did not throw my money away as you suggested. The O2 sensors were slow to go to closed loop control on startup. I tested the O2 sensor heaters and found them bad, but still waited until a OBD code showed up before changing them out.

 

I think we do get it ... in the shorts if we don't try to learn how things work before we blindly go into the shop and pray for salvation.

 

On the constructive side ... i'll try the brake clean around the gasket. I can't clean it now as it is -30 outside and my pressure washer is put away until spring. I did try spraying WD40 around the gasket during the summer but did not notice any rpm change but it was warm and the engine was not acting up. I

Posted
Rick do you understand that the money you tossed away from you guessing could have paid for the proper daig?

 

you guys don.t get it at all

 

you can spary brake cleaner along the intake and the engine will rev up slightly ,

 

with the cold weather contracting everything and now a lean code ,.....

 

get it checked or what Aiden said .

 

 

intake gaskets are easy ,just rinse off the engine first to keep poop out of the ports

 

I think perhaps you don't give US credit. I did take it in for a PROPER diag 2 years ago when it first showed up and all i got from the OFFICIAL diag was a list of possibilities that might be the problem. THEY could not specifically pinpoint the cause of my problem. I did not throw my money away as you suggested. The O2 sensors were slow to go to closed loop control on startup. I tested the O2 sensor heaters and found them bad, but still waited until a OBD code showed up before changing them out.

 

I think we do get it ... in the shorts if we don't try to learn how things work before we blindly go into the shop and pray for salvation.

 

On the constructive side ... i'll try the brake clean around the gasket. I can't clean it now as it is -30 outside and my pressure washer is put away until spring. I did try spraying WD40 around the gasket during the summer but did not notice any rpm change but it was warm and the engine was not acting up. I

 

I think you may have the meaning of a proper diagnosis messed up with a hand held tool diagnosis. A proper diagnosis for an issue like this is obtained by putting the vehicle on an O-scope and checking the activity of every sensor on the vehicle. Not plugging a tech II in and reading an OBDII ode and saying this could be it...or ...or...or. The O-scope will tell you if all the sensors are working properly and if so...and they're readings are truly correct...where the problem is with the mechanical bits. It takes about 2-3 hrs to complete this test...an hour or so of which is setup and tear down of the system.

Posted
Rick do you understand that the money you tossed away from you guessing could have paid for the proper daig?

 

you guys don.t get it at all

 

you can spary brake cleaner along the intake and the engine will rev up slightly ,

 

with the cold weather contracting everything and now a lean code ,.....

 

get it checked or what Aiden said .

 

 

intake gaskets are easy ,just rinse off the engine first to keep poop out of the ports

 

I think perhaps you don't give US credit. I did take it in for a PROPER diag 2 years ago when it first showed up and all i got from the OFFICIAL diag was a list of possibilities that might be the problem. THEY could not specifically pinpoint the cause of my problem. I did not throw my money away as you suggested. The O2 sensors were slow to go to closed loop control on startup. I tested the O2 sensor heaters and found them bad, but still waited until a OBD code showed up before changing them out.

 

I think we do get it ... in the shorts if we don't try to learn how things work before we blindly go into the shop and pray for salvation.

 

On the constructive side ... i'll try the brake clean around the gasket. I can't clean it now as it is -30 outside and my pressure washer is put away until spring. I did try spraying WD40 around the gasket during the summer but did not notice any rpm change but it was warm and the engine was not acting up. I

 

I think you may have the meaning of a proper diagnosis messed up with a hand held tool diagnosis. A proper diagnosis for an issue like this is obtained by putting the vehicle on an O-scope and checking the activity of every sensor on the vehicle. Not plugging a tech II in and reading an OBDII ode and saying this could be it...or ...or...or. The O-scope will tell you if all the sensors are working properly and if so...and they're readings are truly correct...where the problem is with the mechanical bits. It takes about 2-3 hrs to complete this test...an hour or so of which is setup and tear down of the system.

 

OK - if I wanted to do some of this diag myself where can i get the performance data? I own an O scope and use them often. i appreciate that new cars are a complex control systems. I am a control system tech ... but not auto controls. I'd like to check things out for myself. What i was hoping for is some suggestions on what to look at. Things like for a 5.3 the MAF should read xxx g/sec at 600 rpm and yyy at 2000 rpm. And so on for the other sensors that should be check out if you see lean bank error codes. Is this proprietary GM technician information? Or can we normal Joes get this info somewhere? PS-what would i have to pay for the 3-4 hour "PROPER DIAG"?

Posted
Rick do you understand that the money you tossed away from you guessing could have paid for the proper daig?

 

you guys don.t get it at all

 

you can spary brake cleaner along the intake and the engine will rev up slightly ,

 

with the cold weather contracting everything and now a lean code ,.....

 

get it checked or what Aiden said .

 

 

intake gaskets are easy ,just rinse off the engine first to keep poop out of the ports

 

I think perhaps you don't give US credit. I did take it in for a PROPER diag 2 years ago when it first showed up and all i got from the OFFICIAL diag was a list of possibilities that might be the problem. THEY could not specifically pinpoint the cause of my problem. I did not throw my money away as you suggested. The O2 sensors were slow to go to closed loop control on startup. I tested the O2 sensor heaters and found them bad, but still waited until a OBD code showed up before changing them out.

 

I think we do get it ... in the shorts if we don't try to learn how things work before we blindly go into the shop and pray for salvation.

 

On the constructive side ... i'll try the brake clean around the gasket. I can't clean it now as it is -30 outside and my pressure washer is put away until spring. I did try spraying WD40 around the gasket during the summer but did not notice any rpm change but it was warm and the engine was not acting up. I

 

I think you may have the meaning of a proper diagnosis messed up with a hand held tool diagnosis. A proper diagnosis for an issue like this is obtained by putting the vehicle on an O-scope and checking the activity of every sensor on the vehicle. Not plugging a tech II in and reading an OBDII ode and saying this could be it...or ...or...or. The O-scope will tell you if all the sensors are working properly and if so...and they're readings are truly correct...where the problem is with the mechanical bits. It takes about 2-3 hrs to complete this test...an hour or so of which is setup and tear down of the system.

 

OK - if I wanted to do some of this diag myself where can i get the performance data? I own an O scope and use them often. i appreciate that new cars are a complex control systems. I am a control system tech ... but not auto controls. I'd like to check things out for myself. What i was hoping for is some suggestions on what to look at. Things like for a 5.3 the MAF should read xxx g/sec at 600 rpm and yyy at 2000 rpm. And so on for the other sensors that should be check out if you see lean bank error codes. Is this proprietary GM technician information? Or can we normal Joes get this info somewhere? PS-what would i have to pay for the 3-4 hour "PROPER DIAG"?

 

I have no idea where to get all the info...and even if you did, at best you could only read 2-4 sensors at a time...the GM gear reads all the sensors among other things. It may take you a few days to diagnose everything. I know the feeling on knowing how to do this stuff...but still cant man...I'm an electromechanical tech and a control systems tech myself. The cost on this type of diagnosis is 3-4 hours worth of labor...what ever that is where you are...here its 120 an hour.

 

Having said that....if you go look at all your sensors they will have a manufacturer and a part number on them. So say your O2 is made by Delphi and is part number ABC123...than you could contact Delphi and get the operation range of part number ABC123.

 

But if you have things narrowed down to a few sensors you want to check, obtaining the data from the company and popping an O-scope on the leads and taking a reading wouldn't be hard.

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