Jump to content

What Causes Detonation - Advanced Or Retarded Timing?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys,

 

My new to me 93 yukon with the 5.7 seems to have a little 'ping' under acceleration. I just gave it a complete tune up and its running great.

 

I haven't checked the timing(never done this before) but I was wondering if 'ping' or 'detonation' is caused by advanced or retarded timing?

If I check it(need to learn how) or get it checked, what should the timing be set to so it runs at its best. Its completely stock.

 

Thanks....... :dunno:

Posted

advanced timing, crappy gas will cause it too.... I don't know the timing off the top of my head, but most generally I refer to a CHILTON's manual for info like that. To set it by the book you will need a timing light. You may even be able to call your local dealership and have them tell you. I usually set it by ear... leaving the hold down bolt on the distributor loose enough I can turn the whole thing by hand and adjust it a little bit... then drive and see how it reacts. The pinging should get worse one direction, and better the other.

Posted

unplug the brn wire under pass dash,set timing to zero (deep vee shape in timing plate over balancer ),plug connector back in,clear any code if nessesary.

 

get better fuel,

 

check sticker under hood ,says the same

Posted

The 93 350 used Throttle body Fuel Injection, good for torque and gas mileage but really just a fancy carburator.

 

Detonation is common with advanced timing, never with retarded timing. The 350 engine used a distributor and plug wires, unlike the newer 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0. Coil on plug design.

 

You may have a plug wire misfire, this is common if they are old, wires can fire the wrong plug if they are old or have worn spots. Open the hood in the total dark and take a look, you should not have a light show from your wires.

 

Too hot of a spark plug will cause detonation, stay with the factory heat range on these fuel injected engines. The FI engines always run on the lean side leaving them prone to detonation. Knock sensors will detune the engine for you when they sense detonation going on this costs you power and gas mileage but may save the engine from damage. Is the Knock sensor working?

Is this engine stock? The computer is looking for stock compression in its programing, if somebody slipped flat top pistons in the game has changed.

 

Might be time for a normal tune up set the timing as instructed and check your O2 sensor to make sure it is giving your computer the right information.

As said earlier in this forum, many things can cause detonation

 

Another potential cause of detonation, if a Catalytic converter gets plugged up the backpressure builds heat in the engine, increased heat can cause detonation. The test for the cat is simple, they plug a pressure tester in the O2 sensor hole and drive your vehicle, if the pressure is high the problem is solved with a new cat. This usually shows up by power loss while working the engine hard.

Posted
Hey guys,

 

My new to me 93 yukon with the 5.7 seems to have a little 'ping' under acceleration. I just gave it a complete tune up and its running great.

 

I haven't checked the timing(never done this before) but I was wondering if 'ping' or 'detonation' is caused by advanced or retarded timing?

If I check it(need to learn how) or get it checked, what should the timing be set to so it runs at its best. Its completely stock.

 

Thanks....... :dunno:

 

Don't forget to check the EGR valve operation,vacuum supply and the egr solenoid operation,The egr passage way inside of the intake was prone to plugging up with carbon on high mileage 5.7L engines.Quick check of the passage would be to lift up on the egr valve at idle,should idle rough and want to stall.Be careful its HOT! Use gloves.Also check the knock sensor operation,easy way to do this if no scan tool is handy,use a timing light with the est bypass plugged in tap in the area of the knock sensor(located rt side of engine block) using a mettalic object and watch for the timing mark retard move back towards the 0 mark it should move when the tapping is picked up by the sensor.

Another issue could be carbon deposits on the pistons and valves,decarbonize the engine.Also try going from 87 to 89 octane see if it helps.In addition to the other suggestions posted here.

Posted

Great points, Thanks for cleaning up my offering. GM Sells a carbon remover that does a pretty good job of taking the carbon build up off the pistons and valve chamber. Follow directions if you choose this it puts out a ton a stinky smoke out the tail pipe. I had to use it on my 95 Suburban to bring down the knox so I could pass smog.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 224 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...