Jump to content

Thread On Installing Tow Mirrors?


Recommended Posts

Posted

My towing mirrors are suppost to be here tomarrow. Im sure that there is a thread on how to install but cant find anything so far. Can someone point me in a right direction. Thanks

Posted

Are your tow mirrors powered at all or totally manual?

 

I installed fully manual tow mirrors this past summer. All I had to do for them was remove the little black triangle piece on the inside of the door, opposite the mirror's base. It just has little little clips. Pry under it gently and pull outward and the clips will pop out. Then there should be a little foam piece behind that. Just simply pull that out and lay it aside. There will then be 3 (10mm if I remember correctly) bolts holding the mirror on. It is now a simple process of removing those bolts, pulling old mirrors out, slide new mirrors in, and retighten bolts back down. Then replace the foam and black plastic piece.

 

Keep in mind however, that was with fully manual, powerless, tow mirrors.

 

If your mirrors are powered you will need to pull the door panel back and wire them up I believe. It's not difficult though so don't let it scare you at all.

Posted
Are your tow mirrors powered at all or totally manual?

 

I installed fully manual tow mirrors this past summer. All I had to do for them was remove the little black triangle piece on the inside of the door, opposite the mirror's base. It just has little little clips. Pry under it gently and pull outward and the clips will pop out. Then there should be a little foam piece behind that. Just simply pull that out and lay it aside. There will then be 3 (10mm if I remember correctly) bolts holding the mirror on. It is now a simple process of removing those bolts, pulling old mirrors out, slide new mirrors in, and retighten bolts back down. Then replace the foam and black plastic piece.

 

Keep in mind however, that was with fully manual, powerless, tow mirrors.

 

If your mirrors are powered you will need to pull the door panel back and wire them up I believe. It's not difficult though so don't let it scare you at all.

 

They are power. Just didnt know if I had to take the whole door panel off or just that triangle piece.

Posted

I imagine you will have to take the door panel off or at least pull it back quite a bit. The door panel has little metal clips that just pop out the same as the black triangle piece.

 

I'm not positive on a "power" door what all you have to remove to get the door panel off. I know that there will be at least the door lock, and three bolts to remove before the door panel can be peeled back.

 

The actual door lock should have a little square like piece at the bottom center of it. Pry that little square off with a knife or anything you can get under it. The door lock piece should pull up and off then. Now there should be two small "covers" at about the center of your door panel. Again use something pointy to pry these covers off. Underneath one cover will be one bolt and underneath the other cover will be two bolts. I believe the bolts are again 10mm but you will probably need a socket extension to reach them.

 

That's about as far as I can help with power door panels. I'm not sure what you do after that but I'll look around and see if I can't find a "how-to" on it.

Posted
I imagine you will have to take the door panel off or at least pull it back quite a bit. The door panel has little metal clips that just pop out the same as the black triangle piece.

 

I'm not positive on a "power" door what all you have to remove to get the door panel off. I know that there will be at least the door lock, and three bolts to remove before the door panel can be peeled back.

 

The actual door lock should have a little square like piece at the bottom center of it. Pry that little square off with a knife or anything you can get under it. The door lock piece should pull up and off then. Now there should be two small "covers" at about the center of your door panel. Again use something pointy to pry these covers off. Underneath one cover will be one bolt and underneath the other cover will be two bolts. I believe the bolts are again 10mm but you will probably need a socket extension to reach them.

 

That's about as far as I can help with power door panels. I'm not sure what you do after that but I'll look around and see if I can't find a "how-to" on it.

Hey thanks, by the way seen your post about your mirrors and it makes the truck look alot better.

Posted

No problem. I'm glad to hear someone likes my tow mirrors. I'd been on the fence about them for some time now. After recently seeing so many trucks around town look just like mine, I figure I'll leave them on since they help differentiate my truck. :uhoh:

 

Here's the best thing I could find so far on power door panel removal. http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93769

 

It's actually a guy replacing his door handles but it pretty much walks you through the door panel removal process.

Posted
My towing mirrors are suppost to be here tomarrow. Im sure that there is a thread on how to install but cant find anything so far. Can someone point me in a right direction. Thanks

 

There are instructions included that will detail how to do it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 383 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...