Jump to content

06 Gmc Sierra, Won't Start, Please Help


sdmp

Recommended Posts

Posted

2006 GMC Sierra, 5 speed manual trans, 99,000 miles.

Bought new, meticulously maintained, daily driven, no major issues this far, until now. No codes.

 

3 weeks ago, truck stalled out driving home. Would turn over, but not start. Had it hauled home.

Ignition module tested bad (low rpms), replaced. Still no start.

Replaced coil. Still no start.

Flooded due to cranking over so much, allowed it to sit, replaced wires, plugs, cap. still no start.

Hauled in to mechanic. Mechanic replaced cam and crank sensors, checked fuel pressure, compression. all fine.

mechanic checked computer, getting feedback. No codes on readers, could be due to battery disconnect during repairs above, not sure.

Thought maybe bad igntion switch, yes tested bad. So replaced. Still no start. All relays and fuses have been checked.

We are all at a loss. Everything looks good, distributor has hot fire, but it is weak at the plugs. Any ideas. This is becoming a money pit. This truck is not paid for, out of warranty. Help please :thumbs:

Posted

All I can say is find a more competant mechanic. He has missed something or doesn't understand what he's seeing.

 

Mark

Posted
All I can say is find a more competant mechanic. He has missed something or doesn't understand what he's seeing.

 

Mark

 

I hate to jump to this conclusion cause we have all been stumped by something, no on is perfect but it does sound like he doesn't quite have a handle on this.

 

First of all your post lacks what motor is in the truck, second I don't see a fuel pressure at key on and cranking.

Posted

Sorry, I forgot. So frustrated. It is the 4.3L V6. 58 is the pressure on the trunk on cranking. The truck is going to another mechanic on Monday. This guy is a certified mechanic, he is usually right on anything you take him. Also, a service tech from the dealership came and looked at it for him because he was stumped and quite irritated that he could not figure it out either.

 

 

 

All I can say is find a more competant mechanic. He has missed something or doesn't understand what he's seeing.

 

Mark

 

I hate to jump to this conclusion cause we have all been stumped by something, no on is perfect but it does sound like he doesn't quite have a handle on this.

 

First of all your post lacks what motor is in the truck, second I don't see a fuel pressure at key on and cranking.

 

 

 

 

Posted

I also meant to say thank you for your help. Come from a long line of mechanics myself, and this one I guess is over my head.

Posted

Did anyone check the base timing? The distributor gear in this motor has an issue with getting loose and losing base timing. There are two marks on the crank pulley that must be lined up then check distributor timing. Fuel pressure looks good, has anyone checked fuel quality and volume?

 

 

 

 

The first thing I would do is check base distributor timing. If good pull the plugs back out, if wet replace or clean them real good then try starting with ether directly into the throttle body NOT pre mass air flow. If it starts then you are on track and you know it's fuel.

 

EDITED: to remove all the s&*t you don't understand or don't care about.

Posted

Ether would not start it, but that may not mean that the fuel is not the problem. We started running ethanol free about 2 months ago maybe. We run a landscaping business, and the small engines cant take the ethanol, so we have been filling up at the same place. On a jet boat we tinker with, the pure ethanol screws with the timing on it, have to adjust. maybe it has something to do with it, what do ya think?

Posted

If it won't fire on ether you probably have other problems. There's no reason that it won't run on a 10-15% ethanol blend. It might help a tech to use GMs Tech 2 or equivalent scanner. They would be able to see beyond the codes at everything thats happening or isn't.

 

Mark

 

SORRY about multiple posts

Posted

If it won't fire on ether you probably have other problems. There's no reason that it won't run on a 10-15% ethanol blend. It might help a tech to use GMs Tech 2 or equivalent scanner. They would be able to see beyond the codes at everything thats happening or isn't.

 

Mark

Posted

If it won't fire on ether you probably have other problems. There's no reason that it won't run on a 10-15% ethanol blend. It might help a tech to use GMs Tech 2 or equivalent scanner. They would be able to see beyond the codes at everything thats happening or isn't.

 

Mark

Posted

Thank you guyes for your help again. Today, the "new" mechanic had to replace the "china" junk distributor cap with an AC Delco one, and now there is fire. He could not finish today, but thinks the ignition module will also have to be replaced with a different brand. So I think you were right on the aftermarket parts being the problem. So hopefully the three week nightmare will be over tomorrow :cool:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...