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truck lowering and ride advice


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Posted

I am getting a set of 2" drop shackles and wanted opinions on the best brand to buy

 

 

question #2

 

I would also like to get a softer ride from it and right now it rides like a hard tail harley so every bump has me lifting off the seat and that's just way too tight of suspension.

 

what are the best and least expensive options to soften the suspension for a more comfortable ride or does it just have to brake in by carrying some weight around to soften it up?

Posted

I'm using McGaughey's 2" drop shackles on mine but any shackle should be about the same. As far as the ride, the regular cab trucks will inherently ride stiffer and I don't know of anything you could do to soften it up just short of changing leaf springs. You could add a heavy bed cover...

Posted

I'm using McGaughey's 2" drop shackles on mine but any shackle should be about the same. As far as the ride, the regular cab trucks will inherently ride stiffer and I don't know of anything you could do to soften it up just short of changing leaf springs. You could add a heavy bed cover...

 

thanks, do you know if the drop shackles interfere or fit well with the fender well liners at all? I ordered a set of liners and really don't want to start cutting on them

Posted

I took out the overload spring, 1" thickness and the aluminum spacer 1 1/4" thickness for 2 1/4" drop. Now I don't haul anything so I don't need the OL spring. I run 30psi in rear tires which helps the "hopping" over bumps. I'm also installing Monroe part #37166 Sensatrac rear shocks. They have the closest ext 23.50"/compressed 14.625" size I need. I also cut 1 1/2" off the bump stops. This should fix the ride for me. I had Belltech Street Performance 2212FF on it..........if you want hard, throw it into the corner too fast feel every bump, these are for you. Made it ride worse than the stock shocks. Not bad mouthing these shocks, but they are TOO stiff riding for me.

Posted

I took out the overload spring, 1" thickness and the aluminum spacer 1 1/4" thickness for 2 1/4" drop. Now I don't haul anything so I don't need the OL spring. I run 30psi in rear tires which helps the "hopping" over bumps. I'm also installing Monroe part #37166 Sensatrac rear shocks. They have the closest ext 23.50"/compressed 14.625" size I need. I also cut 1 1/2" off the bump stops. This should fix the ride for me. I had Belltech Street Performance 2212FF on it..........if you want hard, throw it into the corner too fast feel every bump, these are for you. Made it ride worse than the stock shocks. Not bad mouthing these shocks, but they are TOO stiff riding for me.

I don't have any overload helper springs, mine is a 1500 2wd

 

if I can get a 2" rear drop without needing to bend the bed seam or get in the way of the fender liner then that's what I want to do.

 

I was thinking of removing the spacer but im scared to start messing around with the rear end u-bolts on a brand new 5 day old truck

 

can anyone confirm yes or no, if using the 2" drop shackles will interfere with a fender liner?

 

I have never seen anyone post a picture showing why the bed seam needs bending so I am unsure what the issue with it is

Posted

Take a look at your rear springs, you have the main leaf with the round ends w/rubber bushings, the second leaf with flat ends and the overload spring. Its the thick, flat one with the round pads on the ends, that's what I took out. I don't understand the fender liner issue. The shackles are at the end of the leaf spring. You don't have to bend the seam in bed. Loosen the bolts that hold the bed to the frame, then jack up the whole rear end. The ends of the springs will push against the bottom of the bed and gently lift it. You don't need much, lift a little until the shackle bolt will slide out. I've had my rear end apart three times. I just bought new u-bolts that were the correct length with the missing pieces, works fine.

Posted

Take a look at your rear springs, you have the main leaf with the round ends w/rubber bushings, the second leaf with flat ends and the overload spring. Its the thick, flat one with the round pads on the ends, that's what I took out. I don't understand the fender liner issue. The shackles are at the end of the leaf spring. You don't have to bend the seam in bed. Loosen the bolts that hold the bed to the frame, then jack up the whole rear end. The ends of the springs will push against the bottom of the bed and gently lift it. You don't need much, lift a little until the shackle bolt will slide out. I've had my rear end apart three times. I just bought new u-bolts that were the correct length with the missing pieces, works fine.

ok thanks

 

I read a few posts saying the springs are just touching it so they had to bend the seam over so it doesn't rub and start rusting

 

its this seam bending that has me wondering if the fender liner will make contact with anything but after thinking about it, I guess there should be no issue with fender wells because the seam they are talking about bending must be back by the spring shackle bolt.

 

your leaf removal sounds like a creative fix but while I wont be fully loading my truck I expect I might be hauling "moderate" loads (500-600 lbs) at times so I don't know if that would be a good idea for me. although if it would "soften" the rear suspension I might have to give it serious thought.

 

I have always bought brand new chevy short bed regular cabs but this is the tightest hardest riding one I ever owned by far

Posted

My truck has the GM (carpeted??) fender liners and I have no clearance issues at all with them, they are well enough away from the axle even after it's lowered. I didn't have to bend the bed seam on mine with a 2" shackle... although it's close. I did cut the factory bumpstops in half and have no issues at all with ride quality, rides and drives just as it did the day I bought it. I haul my boat every week and still use the truck just as I would if it was stock height, hauling refrigerators, washers and dryers, big pressure washer, mulch, lumber, engines/transmissions, hoist, firewood for the winter, tables and chairs.

Posted

My truck has the GM (carpeted??) fender liners and I have no clearance issues at all with them, they are well enough away from the axle even after it's lowered. I didn't have to bend the bed seam on mine with a 2" shackle... although it's close. I did cut the factory bumpstops in half and have no issues at all with ride quality, rides and drives just as it did the day I bought it. I haul my boat every week and still use the truck just as I would if it was stock height, hauling refrigerators, washers and dryers, big pressure washer, mulch, lumber, engines/transmissions, hoist, firewood for the winter, tables and chairs.

thanks, that's what I was hoping.

 

what is it that almost hits? is it the bolt or the flat bar loop end of the spring? and how close is it?

 

im sure i'll figure it out for myself but in your opinion, for some one like me who is planning to keep the truck 20 years, is it close enough to warrant using an aluminum skid plate with stick on adhesive to protect the paint?

Posted

What is close is the barrel of the shackle to the bed seam. I can't fit my finger between the seam and the shackle, but it can't physically hit it.

Posted

What is close is the barrel of the shackle to the bed seam. I can't fit my finger between the seam and the shackle, but it can't physically hit it.

 

hmmm, if it cant hit it then why are people bending the seam? it makes no sense

Posted

I purchased Superior rear lowering shackle kit from Advance Auto Pt# 13-4100. Went to my dealer they put them on in about 30 min. No problems.

Posted

I purchased Superior rear lowering shackle kit from Advance Auto Pt# 13-4100. Went to my dealer they put them on in about 30 min. No problems.

thanks, that's good to know

Posted

The round end of the spring eye hits the "seam" and won't let the bolt slide out. You need just a little more clearance so you can slide the shackle bolt over the frame and out of spring/shackle. Maybe the bed had more space and bolt came out. Loosening the bed bolts takes 2mins to get more clearance is what I had to do.

Posted

The round end of the spring eye hits the "seam" and won't let the bolt slide out. You need just a little more clearance so you can slide the shackle bolt over the frame and out of spring/shackle. Maybe the bed had more space and bolt came out. Loosening the bed bolts takes 2mins to get more clearance is what I had to do.

ok so its just to get the bolts in and out and has nothing to do with how it sits after being installed and there are no clearance issues with anything at that point correct?

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