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"35's on the level" 14 GMC 1500


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How low can you keep it and how big of a tire can you stuff in there?

 

How about some 35's on 2.6" of lift?

20150420_182149-2.jpg

 

Bilstein 5100 front struts on the 1.85" setting with the pro comp bottom spacer from the 2.25" kit, getting around 2.6" of lift. Alignment came out perfect but it had really bad negative camber while it was stock. It was destroying the inside of my tires.

 

2.25" block in the rear with the factory 1.25" taken out with some new 5100 shocks

 

Tires are the original Toyo A/T's 285/75R18.

 

its a lot of sidewall and a fairly skinny tire, Barely rubs with my factory flaps. Still on stock wheels don't think I could have pulled it off with any other offset (may test this later)

 

Edit..

 

I guess this is a build thread....

 

when I first got the truck I ran some 275/70R18 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's with no rubbing and no lift.

 

added a AFE momentum GT air intake

AFE single exit exhaust

Superchips Programmer (yea yea I know box tune sucks blah blah blah. Just want to correct my tire size easily)

EGR in channel flat black vent visors which look great but are way too thick and tripped the safety on the power windows for about 2 months!

truxedo lo pro tonneau cover

HID headlights originally 6000k now switched to 4300K since I didn't care for the bluish purple the projectors made

husky liner weatherbeaters

Rigid Industries Dually D2 driving beam pattern in my factory fog location with the factory switch used

 

 

Going to install some 4.10s soon, it needs them....

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    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
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