Jump to content

Anybody have sticking throttle problem?


Recommended Posts

Posted

The throttle on my 99 Z71 Sierra seems to stick at idle every once in a while. Has anybody else had this problem? Seems i might have read a TSB on it maybe somewhere, but can't find it now. If there is a TSB on it, will the dealer fix it for free, or am i asking for way to much.....?

Posted

There is a TSB for throttle body cleaning, as long as you're still under warrenty the dealer should fix for free. I no warrenty, try some good throttle body cleaner and do it yourself. Make sure you clean the butterfly very well becasue that is the part that usually sticks.

Posted

I just recently had my sticking throttle fixed at the dealer. I can't remember how they worded the exact problem, but I have an extend warranty, and it didn't cost me a thing. The dealer should fix it for you!

Thanks

Posted

I had that problem 6 months ago, after putting 45K miles on my 2000 truck. Just buy a $2 can of throttle body cleaner, spray it on a rag, and clean it yourself. Mine has been fine since then. I'll probably do it every couple years or whenever the sticking starts again. It's just carbon build-up that causes that problem. Should be an easy DIY job. Let me know if you need more info. Not worth the trip to the dealer in my opinion.

Posted

My '99 Silverado did it to with 45k on the OD. took it to a dealer and asked them to comp me because of the TBS. they did.. No charge.

Has work ever since. about 3 years.

 

:)

Posted

Mine was doing it when I bought it. I cleaned out the TB and used a metal polishing attachment on the end of a Wizard rotary tool to smooth the edges of the throttle plate. Worked like a charm, 1yr later and no stiction.

Posted

My 98 Astro 4.3 did this. It seems that where the cable hooks to the throttle body, there is a stop and mine was sticking there. Mine had an allen wrench screw for the stop and I turned it a couple turns and it hasn't stuck again. The idle only increased very slightly.

Posted

It is easier and quicker for you to clean it yourself rather than waste all that time in the dealers waiting room watching soap operas.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...